Hence Room 101 eh Paul?I looked on PubMed before to see what papers were around regarding our little sport (peer reviewed stuff is very scarce, and generally crap). Feel free to have a search and let us know if you find something. I would myself but I haven't got time at present.
Quote from: Paul B on February 03, 2008, 08:28:43 pmits simple: basic, fingery, stop strong,however people will always look for a shortcutcan you elucidate just a little more generously?
its simple: basic, fingery, stop strong,however people will always look for a shortcut
Bit off topic this Q but how do you train technique? Outdoors? Have I answered my own Q?
Be weak so you have no choice other than to learn?
when I finally do a problem that has taken a lot of working, I don't just stop when I've done it (as long as I have skin and am not going to injure myself). I try to do it again as soon as I think my muscles have recovered enough (ie 2 to 10 mins after). Sometimes this results in really smooth ascents within minutes of my first, sketchy ascent. I'm sure this helps me to learn technique.
When you come across a problem that you find hard because you can't overpower it, don't just tick it and move on, do it again and again.
It still shocks me that a common definition for climbing without power/strength = the application of technique