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New 7C near burbage (Read 8996 times)

Banana finger

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New 7C near burbage
January 30, 2008, 06:14:52 pm
Did this awsome new prow problem today. Its a 2 minute walk from grindleford station (just past the fox house), just cross the bridge over the tracks at grindleford station, follow a footpath on your left along the stream untill you get to some green railings then look across 45 degs left and you should see it. Its truely a classic find and dead close to the road. Burly slapping up an overhanging prow from a sitter on jams, followed by some slapping up a prow and a nice eclipse-esque move to the top.
Was thinking about calling it 'Mossattrocity'. As for the grade i'd say it was probably soft 7C, about the same difficulty as brass monkeys....though its hard to tell when you figure out the beta yourself. R man should be posting a vid of it soon......
Def a 3 star classique!

Banana finger

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#1 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 30, 2008, 07:11:06 pm
Did this awsome new prow problem today. Its a 2 minute walk from grindleford station (just past the fox house), just cross the bridge over the tracks at grindleford station, follow a footpath on your left along the stream untill you get to some green railings then look across 45 degs left and you should see it. Its truely a classic find and dead close to

Oops, a little amendment to the directions, its actually 'follow a footpath on your RIGHT along the stream'
Duh

Jim

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#2 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 30, 2008, 07:16:52 pm
nice, look forward to trying it

r-man

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#3 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 30, 2008, 07:32:37 pm
This is indeed an instant classic. Sustained and sequency fridge-hugging at its best. Well done Mr Finger!





Kook on the first half...



Banana_finger working the finish...







GCW

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#4 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 30, 2008, 07:36:30 pm
Top out looks, er, fun.

Jacqusie

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#5 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 30, 2008, 08:33:07 pm
Nice one - effort on finding the line - looked at it few times - but always looked so dirty & orrible!

- there's a few more bits in Paddley Gorge that are worth a look as well.

...Now how the fuck am I going to include that little number into the Froggatt Guide?!

 ::)

r-man

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#6 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 12:34:52 am
Another amendment to the directions:

Its a 2 minute walk from grindleford station, just cross the bridge over the tracks at grindleford station, follow the footpath on your right, walk along the stream untill you get to some green railings then look across 45 degs right and you should see it.

And for those who don't know Grindleford Station - from Sheffield, turn right at the Fox House, then take the first left. Follow that road till you see a turn off for the station on the right.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2008, 12:45:24 am by r-man »

r-man

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#7 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 01:22:26 am
...

Bonjoy

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#8 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 08:18:56 am
Looks good, nice find!

SA Chris

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dave

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#10 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 08:55:29 am
Nice one - effort on finding the line - looked at it few times - but always looked so dirty & orrible!

You should try one of these recent innovations.

Scouse D

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#11 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 09:17:03 am
bollocks. I saw that ages ago.Knew it looked good too.
Effort Ben

dave

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#12 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 09:25:49 am
way to go scouse.  ::)

this does look a good problem, except i'm not seeing any crimps on it.

Scouse D

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#13 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 09:31:49 am
I told you about it! or maybe that was someone else... Either way, I told someone about it!

dave

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#14 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 09:36:41 am
you didn't tell me, or it'd currently have a camo-net draped over it and be refered to as "dave's project" - probably for several years.

Resonate

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#15 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 03:49:54 pm
looks great in photos but terrible from that angle in the video

r-man

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#16 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 04:10:47 pm
Video angle was the best one to show most of the moves - the left hand holds and heels are what you concentrate on whilst climbing. The photos aren't lying, it's an impressive line.

Banana finger

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#17 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 04:59:49 pm
looks great in photos but terrible from that angle in the video

Dont be fooled by the camera angle or my shockingly sloppy ascent, its an obvious and beautiful looking line. The climbings also really good, despite the gnarly grit rash you get on your left forearm and calf! The main point is its only 2 mins from the car park....can't say fairer than that really :) 

Dr T

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#18 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 05:16:39 pm
looks like a nicer version of Boyager - nicer landing if not nicer top out......

r-man

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#19 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 06:02:27 pm
Nah, the top is virtually a jug. Banana_fingers was just too pumped to finish elegantly.


monkey boy

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#20 Re: New 7C near burbage
January 31, 2008, 09:02:27 pm
Effort Ben!! This is the secret problem you told me about?! Looks sweet anyway!

Jacqusie

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#21 Re: New 7C near burbage
February 02, 2008, 08:09:46 pm
Did this awsome new prow problem today. Its a 2 minute walk from grindleford station (just past the fox house), just cross the bridge over the tracks at grindleford station, follow a footpath on your left along the stream untill you get to some green railings then look across 45 degs left and you should see it. Its truely a classic find and dead close to

Oops, a little amendment to the directions, its actually 'follow a footpath on your RIGHT along the stream'
Duh


Had a look today whilst walking the dog MUCH better problem that I remember looking at - probably cos its clean - its well worthy of some traffic. Those holds ain't big either!

Just one thing - soon as you get to the tunnel where the brook runs through (& the green railings) the prow is just up to the right (not left)

Dare I mention it in the new Froggatt Guide? It could go after Yarncliffe edge as a one off find? Worth inclusion I reckon!

Cheers

Si

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#22 Re: New 7C near burbage
February 02, 2008, 08:21:39 pm
Seeked this out today, great find Ben, really good feature and climbs well......however, very very involved, not felt so knackered since grappling with a cast iron bath down a narrow staircase! 
 :jaw:

Got close to doing it before my arms turned to water near top!

El Mocho made a swift repeat in rather more elegant style!

Great problem and worth seeking out, felt similar to Brass Monkeys, probably easier individual moves but lots of them, each slowly sapping your ability to move.....oh and be sure to watch those ankles....nasty grit rash!!

« Last Edit: February 02, 2008, 08:27:06 pm by north_country_boy »

Banana finger

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#23 Re: New 7C near burbage
February 03, 2008, 03:30:17 pm
Did this awsome new prow problem today. Its a 2 minute walk from grindleford station (just past the fox house), just cross the bridge over the tracks at grindleford station, follow a footpath on your left along the stream untill you get to some green railings then look across 45 degs left and you should see it. Its truely a classic find and dead close to

Oops, a little amendment to the directions, its actually 'follow a footpath on your RIGHT along the stream'
Duh


Had a look today whilst walking the dog MUCH better problem that I remember looking at - probably cos its clean - its well worthy of some traffic. Those holds ain't big either!

Just one thing - soon as you get to the tunnel where the brook runs through (& the green railings) the prow is just up to the right (not left)

Dare I mention it in the new Froggatt Guide? It could go after Yarncliffe edge as a one off find? Worth inclusion I reckon!

Cheers

Si

Yeah it is RIGHT, r man mentioned it in a previous reply. Oh and the name's mossatrocity not mossatTrocity as i wrote.
I wrote the post with the haste and excitement of a child openin presents on crimbo morn! All sense went out the window.
Anyhow glad its getting some attention!

Johnny Brown

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#24 Re: New 7C near burbage
February 04, 2008, 12:48:10 pm
At least three more ascents on sunday - nice problem!

 

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