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Wall between Syrett's Saunter and MBCK Groove - Caley (Read 16672 times)

Will Hunt

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Had a go on this today and got my hand in the big break near the top but failed to hang it  :wall:

Its definitely not Syrett's Saunter as it wasn't immensely hard. Didn't use the arete at all though, purely on the pebbles, microedges and smears to the right of this wall. Is this named or is it purely eliminate for not using the arete?
What grade does it go at? I was thinking along the lines of V4/V5.

Johnny Brown

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Aye, remember this as the easy alternative to Syrett's. Its nice, but like you say, a bit contrived.
Grade sounds rightish. Not been for a while mind, Syrett's got any harder?

Just had a look at yorkshire-grit, and the new guide. Bizarrely, Syrett's isn't on yorks-grit, though there is a thing called pebble wall at 7c. However the photo clearly shows a guy on the thing you descibe, which sure ain't 7c:



In the new guide, the line of Syrett's is down as similar to yours, despite being described as

Quote
Brutal pebble pulling up the centre of the slab. Harder, now that a hold has fallen off - 7b

 and then a unnamed 7c to the left. The photo is from the side though so perspective has compressed things a bit. Its also spelt Syrret's, I can't find the YMC guide but I think our spelling is correct.

So no clearer from the two main bibles. Here's how I always had it -

Syrett's goes up the centre of the slab, as the guide describes. Its been a few years since I did it regularly but I'd give this a good 7b+ - harder than it was originally due to loss of pebbles I was assured by locals. The starting feet were always fairly obvious in the centre of the slab.
 
Then there is an easier variation on the right as you've described (but inferior as it becomes either the arete or a bit contrived as above - 7aish) and a harder one just to the left (which is really hard and may have been affected by the pebble losses on Syrett's - 7c seems fair, maybe 7c+). All were dirty and scary by the time you got to the break.

I guess it could only take the loss of one pebble and the centre line could have become defunct, leaving the two sides as the probs - who knows this may have happened. Last time I did it was march 05, i think.
« Last Edit: January 30, 2008, 07:36:19 pm by Johnny Brown »

Will Hunt

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Cheers for that. Must go back and finish it off. Really was my kind of thing. Nice n thin  :)

Stubbs

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The good (for a slab) right foothold at the start of Syrett's was knocked off last year or the year before, so it's even harder than it was with the lost pebbles.

uptown

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So no clearer from the two main bibles.
Last time I did it was march 05, i think.

You should write a guidebook JB - three years away and you're still closest to the mark!

Control freak

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Just had a look at yorkshire-grit, and the new guide. Bizarrely, Syrett's isn't on yorks-grit, though there is a thing called pebble wall at 7c. However the photo clearly shows a guy on the thing you descibe, which sure ain't 7c:

AKAIK Syretts Saunter was always known as pebble wall before the last guide came out and gave a few new names to established problems

hongkongstuey

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AKAIK Syretts Saunter was always known as pebble wall before the last guide came out and gave a few new names to established problems

it was called Pebble Wall when I used to live in Leeds (about 10-years back) - quality little problem whatever name you give it

Will Hunt

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Thought Id put up another photo of the problem.


Its a me.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2008, 01:14:02 am by Will Hunt, Reason: Linking foolishness. »

Houdini

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And once more Will . . .

Will Hunt

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 :shrug:

Houdini, sometimes you confuse me.

Houdini

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I can't see the picture just the usual red cross on white square - is it just me?  ???

Will Hunt

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Bollocks. Got it off a mates blog. Will sort this out.

That should do it. Any better?
« Last Edit: January 31, 2008, 01:14:27 am by Will Hunt »

SA Chris

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I can see it fine.

uptown

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Just had a look at yorkshire-grit, and the new guide. Bizarrely, Syrett's isn't on yorks-grit, though there is a thing called pebble wall at 7c. However the photo clearly shows a guy on the thing you descibe, which sure ain't 7c:

AKAIK Syretts Saunter was always known as pebble wall before the last guide came out and gave a few new names to established problems


I've always known it as Syrett's saunter - Dave Musgrove (he of much Yorkshire knowledge) calls it this in the route book from 1998 with a mention of 'aka Pebble wall and Impossible wall'. I prefer the first name if spelt correctly - it gives a sense of history and is much more informative than the purely descriptive names. Does anyone know why this was ever called Syrett's saunter in the first place though? -  I thought it was first climbed by Al Manson back in the 70s - I reckon it's a climb deserving to have been included in the total climbing history timeline in the new guide. And I'm sure it's harder than 7b - Adam is closer to the mark than either of the bibles or YG...

Never done the thing to the right though.

webbo

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with regard to the names of various caley roadside problems the story is thus when the  guide writer decided they were going in to the guide.he asked al manson who'd done most of the first ascents at that time what they were called.as he hadn't named any of them he decided to embarrass his friends.therefore syretts saunter,bobs bastard[named after bob berzins] websters whinge[named after some fat old cunt living in east yorkshire]and so on.

jern

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Just had a look at yorkshire-grit, and the new guide. Bizarrely, Syrett's isn't on yorks-grit, though there is a thing called pebble wall at 7c. However the photo clearly shows a guy on the thing you descibe, which sure ain't 7c:

AKAIK Syretts Saunter was always known as pebble wall before the last guide came out and gave a few new names to established problems


I've always known it as Syrett's saunter

There was a picture in an old (late 80s?) Leeds Uni MC journal of someone (JOe Healey I think) on a problem labelled 'Syretts Saunter' which was obviously on this slab. Its a weird picture as I remember (lost the journal years ago) because it looks as if he's traversing the slab.

The problem Will is talking about is one I was shown by a shy (non)Yorkshireman as being an easier sequence for Pebble wall / Impossible wall / Syrett's etc. In the end I did the  proper way and topped it out (you have to top out for the tick!) This was about 12 years ago, last tried it about 3 years ago and it didn't seem any different in terms of pebbles and whatever - may have lost some since though. God I wish I lived in Leeds still!

nathan wind

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Did the central line, which at the time people used to call syrett's saunter, a long time ago... (though dropped off at the break) was back there the other day showing someone round and was shocked by how green and dirty  it was.. only to realize a huge beech tree had grown where there once was nothing.. hence the green and dirt I guess.. also it looked as though a key rh pebble (bout the size of a football boot stud) had come off a few inches beneath the break.. that pebble was key for me so would imagine this'd be full value for 7b now.. most likely 7b+.. used to get V9 in the steve rhodes guidebook.. for any of you ancient enough to remember that, that is... really should go back an re-aquaint myself....

jern

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Weirdly enough I was looking through that guide last night. THAT, my friend, was a bouldering guide! The 'bed' system of quality rating being especially revolutionary.

nathan wind

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THAT, my friend, was a bouldering guide! The 'bed' system of quality rating being especially revolutionary.

hell yeah!! forgotten about the bed rating system, pure class!

nathan wind

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Just had a quick look at THAT guide to get a description of the problem on the lh side of this bloc. described thus..

'wall above the boulder trending R to, then up the arete' 6b 6..

obviously not v6, most likely somewhere in the F6B / 6B+ region at a guess? anyway a really cool problem, though not in the new guide, probably pretty dirty these days..



jern

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That is a good problem, definitely not V6 (or whatever). I think it might be on the last Yorkshire Grit guide as route.

SA Chris

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The Steve Rhodes Guide was the bible for a few years. Wandering Caley with beermat at the ready. HK Stu's brother found the copy in the Otley Bookshop.

cofe

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reckon kim is taking a more direct/central line which is where i thought it went:



talk amongst yourselves.

Jim

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get with the program cofe

cofe

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don't make me F you up. I was being nothing short of helpful. you are going to feel my wrath. big time.

 

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