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Winter sun sport climbing venue (Read 2037 times)

RobinB

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Winter sun sport climbing venue
January 29, 2008, 01:39:30 pm
I'm after some suggestions as to a good place to go sport climbing towards the end of February. Probably looking at Spain/France etc rather than more far flung venues.

Routes on the shorter side would be a plus as would be some kind of accomodation (refugio etc) nearish to the crag

Any suggestions gratefully received

Bonjoy

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#1 Re: Winter sun sport climbing venue
January 29, 2008, 01:57:05 pm
Montgrony or Terradets, both in Catalunya would be good bets. Of those two, both of which have lots of tufa, Terradets is the least prone to seepage. Montgrony is good throughout the grades, Terradets doesn't have loads below 7b+ but is world class from 7c-8a+ and has plenty of other crags within easy drive.

RobinB

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#2 Re: Winter sun sport climbing venue
January 29, 2008, 02:28:19 pm
Thanks Bonjoy. I've been to places like Sella, El Chorro etc years ago but don't know much about some of the more recently developed Spansih crags.

Another crag I've heard of is Rodellar - anyone got any info? Also, anyone know good places to stay for Terradets etc. We were plannig on not having to take tents and all that sort of stuff

Bonjoy

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#3 Re: Winter sun sport climbing venue
January 29, 2008, 03:34:50 pm
Some info on Rodellar here http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4236.0.html . I went there for two months last year and for me it is easily my favourite sport climbing area. There are some pics from that trip here http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=27746&id=722433792

This is one of the main sectors - The Gran Boveda, it varies from 20-35m and has loads of super classic steep tufa routes, mostly in the 7b-8b+ range.


If you like really long, really steep routes, on mostly big holds sector Surgencia is unsurpassable. Here's a pic of the classic 40m 8a El Corridor De La Muerta:


 Rodellar may well be in great nick at the end of Feb, but it probably more prone to seepage than the other crags mentioned and the best sectors are more shady. If the worst comes to the worst there are still a couple of weeks worth of routes which never get wet. For non-tent accomodation the El Puente campsite just outside the village has chalets and apartments and does off season discounts for climbers.

 Terradets has a good cheap refugio very near the crag and a mid priced hotel a little further north. Montgrony has a refugio in a very beautiful old monastic sanctuary building, right beneath the crag. There is a downloadable topo for Montgrony on Rockfax.com
Here's a pic of a 7a+ at Montgrony:

 

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