[rlovatt]

I've been supplementing my climbing with weighted pull ups, using the workout below

x 10 body weight
x 6 15 KG
x 5 20
x 4 25
x 3 30
x 2 35
x 1 40

 and back down the other side of the pyramid

I've been doing this on my non climbing days, however I feels so trashed I can't often climb the next day. Don't get me wrong I’m defo seeing benefits but I have to have a days rest in between the pull ups and climbing again.  I get the feeling that it's because the 1RM is so intense. I was thinking of maybe going for say 5 sets of 5RM, will I still see gains doing this? but feel less trashed

Any advise would be much appreciated

thanks

Rob

[Paul B]

what's your bodyweight for a start? this will help us tell whether or not its even a worthwhile exercise for you.
On first inspection it looks (to me anyway) that there is far too much volume here for power pulls (61 pull ups!)

[rlovatt]

i weigh 65KG

[rlovatt]

why is my weight important for the exercise?

Cheers

[Paul B]

if I/We know it, it is then possible to see the intensity of your 1RM (162% BW), if you weighed a lot more it would show that you're weak as Tesco Value beer and that the exercise is absolutely useless for you (it worries me that many climbers seem to see added weight in an absolute kind of a way rather than thinking of it relative to their bodyweight) and visa versa.
I think you need to cut down the volume, make the sides of your pyramid steeper and up the 1RM to +50 ish kg then your working at 180% BW. I'll hasten to add that I doubt this is the best exercise for your goals, whatever they may be, weighted pull-ups/ power pulls were superseded a long time ago by other training methods.

[Houdini]

Such as?  I'm interested.

[Three Nine]

I'd be keen to know too. But that's definitely right about the huge volume of pullups, that's a great way to hurt your elbows.

[rlovatt]

is 1RM really strictly necessary?

when training for strength using weights a lot of texts recommend exercising in the 3-8 reps range and conversely 8- 12  for size (which I’m obviously not looking for)

would it be wiser to cut down on the pull ups and perhaps doing some dead hangs on the back end of the pulll ups?

[Paul B]

It completely depends:
What level are you at?
What are your goals?

otherwise its like shooting in the dark...

In response to your comment on rep range, you're correct powerlifters work in the 3-6 ish range which is about 80% of their one rep max I believe, i'm fairly certain that if you can do 1 rep +50kg after building up to it like in your original post that this is definitely not your 1RM...

[rlovatt]

level: V7ish

Goal: basically I can't climb every night down the wall, and when I’m there I prefer to boulder rather than do specific exercises to make the most of the facility, so I really want to find some exercises which would benefit me on my nights off at home

[Paul B]

Ok so we can cut endurance out of the equation but you haven't really mentioned anything specific.
Whats your biggest weakness? as pulling on a bar with a load of weight isn't all that relevant to climbing.

[rlovatt]

My finger strength is relatively good, especially on crimps. but i cant dead hang with one hand on even medium edges with open hand

I can lock off on a bar every angle.

I think my biggest problem is open-handed problems especially moving from one big open handed move to the next

BTW why do you say endurance is not the problem?

[Paul B]

it was about the only thing possible to rule out from your vague post.

Forget doing bar work, one armers etc. get dead hanging open, assisted if necessary. Work your weaknesses not your strengths, there is only so much fine tuning you can do, you'll see much better progression by doing this. Its not always fun but it has to be done, trust me.

[rlovatt]

cheers Paul

thanks for the tips