I hyperflexed my middle finger real bad, need something doing to it, hate needles.... any recomendations?
Sorry to hear that. Did this a few years back, badly.
I ended up with the 'distal' joint of the 4th finger flopping about and unable to flex it at all! That took quite some rehab.
You're probably braced for this, but the quicker you accept that you're not going to be jumping back onto gnarly problems, the better. It just does take a while to repair these things properly, and if you keep wanting to get back before you've let the thing heal, you're looking at years of misery.
You need to get to a finger specialist. They're complicated things and your injury isn't quite like anyone else's.
In the acute phase, you can certainly help nature by dropping that finger (and even the whole hand) into cold water with ice cubes for as long as you can bear. When you take it out, you'll get an improved blood supply to the injured site and the swelling will go down a bit. You can keep doing this for months, well into rehab.
After the acute phase is under control -- anyone's guess but possibly looking at months -- you can think about doing some easy climbing again. You might want to just content yourself with ARCing for a month of so until you have recovered some basic climbing fitness. and in the process, you can start stretching out the tendon on different holds and angles. Your physio will need to show you some injury-specific stretches and how to do them. Ultrasound definitely helps, but doesn't short-cut the sensible amount of time needed to full recovery.
As to when you can crank at your maximum again, all I'd say is that you can undo months and months of agonised waiting in an impatient second!
That's exactly what I did. Got onto some problems, no worries. Got onto harder problems. No worries. Concluded that everything must be okay and WHACK! The old tear held but I developed a new one a bit lower down. I wondered about this but consider: when the tendon tears, it has been stretched across its entire length from one insertion to another. So perhaps the whole thing has little hotspots of weakness.
Any experts care to comment on this idea?
