[i.munro]

Sounds genius. We won't understand technique until peeps try more stuff like this. I think the main reason folk just train power is cos they don't know how to train technique.

Thanks Johhny. Bouyed up by your kind words I'm now going to go away & try  & build a prototype.

In my experience what impresses chicks is being good-looking, rich & preferably not a climber.

[saltbeef]

Bottom line is: power impresses chicks, while technique makes you look a bit effeminate.

word to that man.
well thats what our macho brains would like to think.
power is no substitute for more power etc..

In my experience, what impresses chicks is topping out what others can't, not one armers.

Tongue firmly in cheek. I don't think girls are very impressed by climbing. certainly my girlfriend finds "it a bit embarrassing".
I've said it many times before, people train power because they have finite amounts of time and it enables them to achieve their goals, and they can make recognisable gains.
and to quote the famous once more "fuck it, I'm not topping out."

[Jim]

certainly my girlfriend finds "it a bit embarrassing".

we all find it embarrassing climbing with you  or is she talking about your choad?

[saltbeef]

she was talking to pencil, i think. my choad isn't embarassing, you love it.

[Serpico]

Thanks Johhny. Bouyed up by your kind words I'm now going to go away & try  & build a prototype.

Make sure the sensors measure outward pull as well.

I think the best non-rock method of technique training is ARCing on a Bendcrete wall. You can't learn technique in a high intensity, high stress situation. 90 minutes of ARCing gives you a massive volume of moves in a situation where you can evaluate how hard you're pulling and how efficiently you're moving, and then reinforce those movements with a decent volume of repetition.
Modern walls are rubbish, we should push for a Bendcrete renaissance.

[GCW]

I'm just glad you all agree with me.

[Paul B]

There's always a balance between technique and power.  Most moves can be done using POWER.   

I'd like to see that applied to lay by arete at slipstones

 

[Falling Down]

Brian Jacks doing dips in Adidas sweatpants?

[Jaspersharpe]

Lots of chicks are impressed by Russell Brand and he looks like a complete cock. Go figure. Funny how every thread to do with any type of training ends up in a technique vs power girly slap fest. If you want to be good (actually good) you need both. That is all.

[Paul B]

Lots of chicks are impressed by Russell Brand and he looks like a complete cock. Go figure. Funny how every thread to do with any type of training ends up in a technique vs power girly slap fest. If you want to be good (actually good) you need both. That is all.

and i thought I knew which side you were on! 

[Johnny Brown]

If you want to be good (actually good) you need both. That is all.

I think we can take that as a given. The problem is after thrity odd years of stamina then power training methods being developed, technique training still comes down to 'climb outdoors. on slabs.'

I've said it many times before, people train power because they have finite amounts of time and it enables them to achieve their goals, and they can make recognisable gains.

...and they don't know how to train technique in a similar manner.

think the best non-rock method of technique training is ARCing on a Bendcrete wall.

WTF is this? How does it work?

[Jim]

Is it not a reference to stone monkey?

[Serpico]

think the best non-rock method of technique training is ARCing on a Bendcrete wall.

WTF is this? How does it work?

30 min+ sessions of easy climbing done primarily to improve forearm endurance by increasing capillarity, but has the side effect that so much low intensity movement on a heavily featured rock like surface (like on old school Bendcrete wall) is really good for improving technique.

[Bonjoy]

Bottom line is: power impresses chicks, while technique makes you look a bit effeminate.

What they really like is trumpets and bookends

[Jaspersharpe]

and i thought I knew which side you were on! 

Well you don't see me "training technique". 

[Jim]

I really don't see how climbing slabs is going to improve your technique for anything else apart from climbing slabs

[Johnny Brown]

30 min+ sessions of easy climbing done primarily to improve forearm endurance by increasing capillarity, but has the side effect that so much low intensity movement on a heavily featured rock like surface (like on old school Bendcrete wall) is really good for improving technique.

Jeez, so the best method of technique training we have is easy traversing? I can see how this might aid development of a flowing efficient movement style for long routes, but how will it help these school boys with 6a rockovers?

[Serpico]

It's not about traversing, it's about movement in all planes.
If a 6a rockover is at your max grade, the best way to learn the movement skill is by submaximal repetitions of similar movements.
It's always been the case that people who do huge volumes of climbing get good at climbing. If all you do is try hard boulder problems (or hard redpoints) you limit the actual volume of novel moves you make.

[Fiend]

There hadn't been a power vs. technique thread for far too long. Weeks, even!

Un-scientific, but I've found, say, some of the more dainty Works problems to have an aspect of training technique. Unfortunately that always seems to involve falling off tiny polished smears for me. And technique makes you weak anyway  ???

[Paul B]

There hadn't been a power vs. technique thread for far too long. Weeks, even!

Un-scientific, but I've found, say, some of the more dainty Works problems to have an aspect of training technique. Unfortunately that always seems to involve falling off tiny polished smears for me. And technique makes you weak anyway  ???

i'd disagree, they're usually just 'trick' problems.

Johnny, don't you start again  you know you're always welcome up the school so there's no need to get all arsey.

[Johnny Brown]

It's not about traversing, it's about movement in all planes.
If a 6a rockover is at your max grade, the best way to learn the movement skill is by submaximal repetitions of similar movements.
It's always been the case that people who do huge volumes of climbing get good at climbing. If all you do is try hard boulder problems (or hard redpoints) you limit the actual volume of novel moves you make.

I see, you've got a point there.

some of the more dainty Works problems to have an aspect of training technique. Unfortunately that always seems to involve falling off tiny polished smears for me.

Yeah, the works are good at setting problems with novel moves. Can't say I've done a single problme indoors that is really foot-friction limited though.

Johnny, don't you start again  spank you know you're always welcome up the school so there's no need to get all arsey.

Just trying to help you all acheive your potential. If there was a method found for training technique, wouldn't you be interested?

[Paul B]

YES completely, it is a massive weak side of my climbing and one that i can't fathom how to sort out. Getting out more would help but it currently isn't really an option.

[SA Chris]

Bottom line is: power impresses chicks, while technique makes you look a bit effeminate.

What they really like is trumpets and bookendsmarks?

Possible misquote there Bonjoy?

[i.munro]

YES completely, it is a massive weak side of my climbing and one that i can't fathom how to sort out. Getting out more would help but it currently isn't really an option.

I think that's where the gadget I'm envisaging might fit in.
Not as the only way of training technique but a way to make measurable improvements in one aspect of it.

Serpico made a good point about having to measure force in more than one plane,
anyone else got anything constructive to add?

[Somebody's Fool]

Pete Hurley claimed to develop his not inconsiderable finger strength by putting a load of jugs on his board at home, then traversing on them for hours at a time. 

I should point out the word 'claimed' is fairly crucial in that sentence.  His theory has since been rubbished by Smitton, who stripped the board of its jugs and is a beast on whatever rock type you stick him on.