[fatdoc]

C'mon Dense et al share some knowledge
 

Here's the deal, I'm back into climbing and after 16 months of doing it, some training, a lot of arsing about and finally getting round to building a board I'm now thinking about hangs. This was a type of training talked about in hushed tones prior to my disappearance from the sport and I hear of some peeps who still swear by the gains in finger strength it can give you.

I've got a moon board, which is v good IMO. I do sets of 5  (yes, both arms I'm afraid) on near all of the holds once a week, usually at the end of a session on the board, nothing scientific.

Soooo, I'm asking you strong types out there whether and what I should be considering in this realm of training.

Thanks.

[saltbeef]

dave macleod has a good regime on his website, its in his rough guide to climbing training. i'd probably do it on a separate day to training on the board, though the board is a good way to warm up. try doing some "fanny hangs" on one arm even if you only hold a 20mm edge for a millisecond  you'll end up building on that. it takes ages to improve at it. i've noticed only marginal gains in the last 2 months of hanging 2-4 times a week, but they are gains, and as malc says a lot of weak climbers get away with strong fingers. if you can get some wooden edges 20mm 10mm and 5mm. I have a moon fingerboard but those crimps are more skin/pain threshold training than fingerr training!

[Paul B]

My personal opinion are hangs are 2nd best compared to climbing on small holds (like a cragx board) or hitting them with some force (campus touches).

[saltbeef]

 ignore paul he weighs 2 stone, and has brutally strong fingers, and he's always injured. listen to a man of science!
if you want contact strength then catching crap hold is the way forward. but for isometric strength upon which you can build your ballistic strength, deadhangs are the way.

[fatdoc]

i got wood ( holds in the eves in garage, where board resides) so i'll having a look on that site and getting stuck in, thanks saltbeef... I hear what you say Paul, but I'm set on some hangs for now (i.e. no campus board at home)

[Nibile]

i would separate dead hangs sessions from cilmbing as well.
as previously posted, i'd go with max efforts, say the likes of 4 seconds. on different holds, maybe also using weights.
i'm also doing funny and very hard routines now at the vertical wall, feet on good footholds, one hand deadpoints between very bad holds, in every direction.

[slackline]

i got wood

Best put it to good use then 

[Jim]

Ignore all of them. Go out climbing more and enjoy yourself. Training like this is shit boring

[Paul B]

ignore paul he weighs 2 stone, and has brutally strong fingers, and he's always injured. listen to a man of science!
if you want contact strength then catching crap hold is the way forward. but for isometric strength upon which you can build your ballistic strength, deadhangs are the way.

Hmm there was some 'Sceince' to my arguement put forward by serpico over on UKC,I might dig it out tomorrow if i remember.

[saltbeef]

Ignore all of them. Go out climbing more and enjoy yourself. Training like this is shit boring

better than nowt when you cant climb...

[Jim]

saltbeef is definitely correct with his first 3 observations

[Jim]

Ignore all of them. Go out climbing more and enjoy yourself. Training like this is shit boring

better than nowt when you cant climb...

Yeah but you've always had that problem

[saltbeef]

Ignore all of them. Go out climbing more and enjoy yourself. Training like this is shit boring

better than nowt when you cant climb...

Yeah but you've always had that problem

works a bitch eh?