[SA Chris]

In general terms i wonder if compression socks would help? You can pick up some reasonable ones from Decathlon for not a lot of money so might be worth a whirl. Possibly some of the supercushioned Hokkas would be helpful too, not these monstrosities though! https://www.hokaoneone.eu/en/gb/trail-products/tennine/1109689.html

[TobyD]

Has anyone on here ever stress fractured a metatarsal?
I'm very concerned that I probably have, although I had an XR yesterday which didn't show one, symptomatically it seems likely, and mechanism of injury is very typical.
If anyone has, what was your recovery period, and any rehabilitation methods etc recommended?

[DAVETHOMAS90]

I thought I'd post this up here, to cover a little bit of confusion about "interval training" mentioned in the thread about Recruitment Pulls.

I also think it might be good to start a separate "running for climbers" thread - to look at ways of running that might maximise benefits, hinder recovery less etc.

Re Interval Training. The term "interval" actually refers to the period of rest. More generally, training runs are either (more or less) constant pace, or varied pace. Interval training falls into the latter, obviously.

Interval training sessions can be designed to target many different aspects of fitness - race pace, tempo, endurance-speed, hill work, power, VO2 Max etc.

This could involve running 400m laps or book-ending a couple of 10k runs.

The "rest" interval could mean walking for 60s or running 1km below threshold.

All this, depending on what you want to work/target.

[Rob F]

Just checked my go to training book:

"Sasha DiGiulian, one of the best endurance sport climbers, and Alex Megos, one of the world's best on-sight climbers, both make running a regular part of their training. Perhaps you should too!"

Doesn't mention either of these two doing any foot on campusing though...

[nai]

but what would they do if they were locked down with just a four rung campus board in an alley and the psyche to be fit for routes.

[Rob F]

He would buy a big beer barrel, hammer some campus rungs onto it...

...and then Jim Pope would beat him in a footless campus fight to the death

[T_B]

I also think it might be good to start a separate "running for climbers" thread - to look at ways of running that might maximise benefits, hinder recovery less etc.

Here’s my tuppence. I think you can rotate between the two, say every 4 or 6 months. Trying to do either at the same time at a decent personal level requires too much time for most people and just not enough recovery time, unless you’re really young maybe? I just end up knackered trying to eg run 5 x pw and climb 4 sessions. John M or Stabbsy maybe disagree.

It’s useful to be aerobically fit if you want to climb well after a mountain crag walk in. Climbing in the Alps is brilliant. You can also pull on smaller holds despite being weaker, as you tend to be lighter.

Despite the focus on climbing training, without a lot of time on actual rock you just won’t get anywhere near your potential. I lost a lot of running fitness this summer, but I was climbing better than I have in over a decade. A bit of gentle running is ok but I just don’t see how doing anything infrequently, but at a higher intensity, is not going to lead to injury (though IIRC this is what Ben Moon was doing (prescribed?) a couple of years ago). More volume, so that you can tolerate some more intense sessions, means too much running and not enough climbing!

[tomtom]

@TB I remember one of the Randal/Lattice interviews about training for older climbers made that point (lots of other exercise hampers recovery and thus climbing performance and ability to train).

[SA Chris]

Noted a couple of people mentioned running on  ice, a set of the cheap shoe spikes (I got some from Lidl) or similar are invaluable. I had some in the bottom of a drawer for a couple of years, but never used in anger. They are a fiddle to get on, probably worth fitting to a spare pair and leaving in place. They fit especially well on Nikes with the pointy heel if you have any.

[T_B]

At the less cheap end of the scale, I’ve finally got to use my Nortec Trail micro crampons (185gms a pair). They are a bit fiddly to get on, but they’re properly amazing to run in. No good for pavements and I’ve been quite careful on rock as they could scratch up grit.

[Stabbsy]

I’d been thinking of getting a pair of Orocs or similar that have built-in spikes. I’ve had some Petzl ones that you pull over the shoe and they didn’t last long, so was looking for a better solution.

[RobK]

I’d been thinking of getting a pair of Orocs or similar that have built-in spikes.

Obviously a bit specialised but I've had a pair before and they're good. Icebugs are another alternative if you're looking at going down that route.

[SA Chris]

No good for pavements and I’ve been quite careful on rock as they could scratch up grit.

Yeah, sound like a tapdancer! I'm sticking to shorter routes around the area up to 10 k for now. I tested them on some wet rock by the sea and they were no better than normal trainers i.e shite.

[SA Chris]

https://live.opentracking.co.uk/sowjune2021/

214 Lakeland Summits in under 6 days.

If she'd done just one with 2 hangry children and not wanted to kill them I'd be more impressed though.

[remus]

Jesus, not a lot of time for sleeping in those splits! Looks like something less than 12.5hrs over 6 days...

[galpinos]

Jesus, not a lot of time for sleeping in those splits! Looks like something less than 12.5hrs over 6 days...

Stolen from the other channel:

From Steve Birkinshaw:

Sabrina's Wainwright record stats:
total=144hr, moving=129hr, resting=15hr (~6 hours sleep)
Paul T (previous record):
total=150hr, moving=113hr, resting=37hr.
Sabs has the amazing physical and mental toughness to keep moving with very little sleep/rest.

[SA Chris]

Can you imagine that, the mental and physical strain of keeping on going like that when you are exhausted, tired and utterly fucked.

[steveri]

Chin on floor emoji!

[slab_happy]

Because it deserves noting somewhere:

Jasmin Paris completed a Fun Run at this year's Barkley Marathons, becoming the first woman in a decade to do so.

N.B. A "Fun Run" is three loops of the course; this year, only 2 runners even made it onto loop four, and neither finished it within the time limit. The full race is five loops and there have only been 15 finishers in the history of the race.

https://www.runnersworld.com/uk/news/a39393890/jasmin-paris-barkley-marathons/

For anyone not familiar with the living nightmare that is the Barkley, I can rec the excellent documentary  "The Barkley Marathons: The Race That Eats Its Young."

[SA Chris]

It's an amazing achievement, up there with her astonishing spine race achievement a few years back

https://www.inov-8.com/eu/jasmin-paris-recordbreaking-spine-race-win

(I do sometimes wonder if my insomnia and ability to fall asleep anywhere when tired would be an asset to completing a race like this, but not really prepared to try it and see).

[T_B]

I guess it’s hard to really know but my understanding is it’s basically impossible to finish Barkley as a ‘virgin’ and that most people rely on teaming up with a ‘veteran’ on their first attempt. I’d be interested in the stats for how many people have finished a Fun Run on their first attempt? Reading between the lines it doesn’t sound like she really teamed up with anyone. She’s obviously a world-class athlete and quite capable of a finish with a bit more experience of the topography. Hope she goes back.

[edshakey]

Some not-thorough googling has led me to John Fegyveresi finishing first time, and Brett Maune having 2 finishes from 2 starts! But generally, people don't seem to be managing it first attempt

[Paul B]

For anyone not familiar with the living nightmare that is the Barkley, I can rec the excellent documentary  "The Barkley Marathons: The Race That Eats Its Young."

Can you recommend any streaming services where I can find it please?

[T_B]

It was on Netflix for ages but doesn’t seem to be any more?

The film about Gary Robbins’ excruciating near completion is on YouTube and is worth a watch.

[slab_happy]

For anyone not familiar with the living nightmare that is the Barkley, I can rec the excellent documentary  "The Barkley Marathons: The Race That Eats Its Young."

Can you recommend any streaming services where I can find it please?

You can currently rent it on iTunes for 99p. Looks like you can also buy/rent it direct at https://barkleymovie.com  -- more expensive, but there's a "bonus features" option.

"Where Dreams Go To Die", the Gary Robbins film:



While I'm spamming links, here's the wonderful article by Leslie Jamison that inspired the film-makers of "The Race That Eats Its Young" to try to make a film about the Barkley in the first place:

https://believermag.com/the-immortal-horizon/