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Forearm training with shoulder injury (Read 634 times)

mikejones

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Forearm training with shoulder injury
December 05, 2022, 06:12:12 pm
Hey all,

I have a long term shoulder issue which I'm currently trying to rehab. I'm able to have 2 bouldering sessions a week (limited by the shoulder) but would like to do some additional power endurance training on the side. Previously I've had great success with standard 7 seconds on 3 off repeaters on the fingerboard but fingerboard really pisses my shoulder off at the moment.

So I'm wondering, can anyone suggest any exercises I can do for PE training that isolates the forearms and isn't intense on the shoulders? I've tried the lifting an edge with a weight attached but thats still fairly intense on the shoulders.  All I can think of is squeezing one of those gym pinches but don't know if that applies to PE training in any shape or form.

Cheers for the advice!

abarro81

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#1 Re: Forearm training with shoulder injury
December 05, 2022, 06:46:07 pm
Have you tried BFR training? Might allow you to do the pick-ups at a low enough intensity that it would be viable?

You can also just strap the cuffs on and open and close your hands, minute on minute off, until the pain and pins and needles gets overwhelming... I've done this when injured. I'm sure it's far less effective than proper/normal training but also is likely to be much better than nothing!

Not finger flexors, but wrist curls and reverse wrist curls with some kind of PE protocol might also be viable to get fit wrist flexors..

petejh

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#2 Re: Forearm training with shoulder injury
December 05, 2022, 09:00:24 pm
Bit of broom handle with a weight attached to it on a cord. Wind it up and unwind back down. Pumpy as hell in the forearms. Can adjust weight and timing.

Liamhutch89

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#3 Re: Forearm training with shoulder injury
December 05, 2022, 09:35:33 pm
Hangs / pick-ups with front 2 & back 2. Your shoulders might cope a little better with the reduced load.

Apparently Aidan does them so you also might climb 9A afterwards  ;D

biscuit

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#4 Re: Forearm training with shoulder injury
December 14, 2022, 09:26:30 pm
Isolate the shoulder. Set up sat down with elbow at your side and bent to 90 degrees. If possible have your forearm supported.

Have something behind your elbow blocking it (a wall) so it can't move.

Allow a tiny bit of give in the distance you have the fingerboard set up (a ratchet strap is good for millimetre accuracy).

You should be able to pull with/engage the fingers without engaging the shoulder (much).

This may be shoulder issue specific and not work for you.

biscuit

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#5 Re: Forearm training with shoulder injury
December 14, 2022, 09:27:56 pm
Or finger curls, wrist curls etc. They are not perfect by any means but way better than nothing.

The BFR suggestion is a good one. I did my dissertation on it and happy to discuss if you want to go down that route.

 

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