[dave k]

Excuse the spelling

Went there for the third time today- excellent conditions, but struggled on the arete (v6) and front face (v7).

Guide says use arete on the right, could not get off the floor- do you stand up to a sloper out right  (I seemed to make more progress on the left hand side, avoiding the left arete v4, felt hard for v6- has this been done? My guess would be v8, given the last move.

The front face seems rather height dependant at v7- I could on step up on a sloper on tip toes to get the two finger pocket, but was really stretched and could not do anything - right foot was on a sloper and this kept popping- tall people could use a positive foot hold down to the right, which might make it easier.   

Anyone tried these/done them?

[Johnny Brown]

Yeah, while ago though, think getting going is the crux on both. That's not much use is it. Persevere, and it'll get easier, that's what I'm trying to say...

[AndiT]

Only done Starlight and Storm on its left, but I use both aretes making the grade feel about right. I'm the same as you in that I can't get off the ground on its right!

Find the slab easier, but I'm tall and still use a bit of a french start. I reckon it must be easier than S&S on the right!

[Johnny Brown]

The slab definitely felt harder to me. Starting the arete might have required a high foot or something technical.

[AndiT]

What you trying to say? Can't be that technical, it's just one big hold and one big smear.

[Johnny Brown]

You mean gritstone generally? Indeed it is.

[AndiT]

There isn't always a hand hold.

[Andy B]

I had a brief look at Simon's Slab on Saturday. But sacked it cos I kept slipping off the first smear with one finger in the pocket and stripping skin which I wanted to save for Sunday. I did, however, get to the last move using the following sequence, which I am sure will work:

RH thumb press on pebble in depression,
RF high angled smear left of the crack,
bounce into pocket with 1 and a half fingers of left hand (it is possible to start static if it floats your boat, by using the side pull pocket to the right and   a left toe lock in the crack to reach the pocket but this is more reachy, more skiddy and less pleasant).
LF up to better high smear to the left,
RH to the mono pocket just above LH,
pull up onto LF smear,
RF up to the pebble used as the starting thumb press,
rock onto and stand up on this to reach the break with RH.

[dave k]

Cheers all useful stuff

Think the LH side of S&S gets v4- seems about right- might be possible eliminating LH arete at about v7/8.


Johnny- to get started on the arete, did you use a sloper pocket up to the right of the areteor stick with hands on the arete? There seems to be a selection of poor slopers on the face, but all in need of a brush.

[mini]

Don't remember the slab being too bad dave k. Did it first go after spitting on my shoes!

[AndiT]

Been back to this tonight. I've found this to work, to the break anyway, didn't top out!

For starlight and storm, get the best hold on the arete with you left and get a really high outside edge with your right foot. I then bounce up for all I'm worth to catch the mono thing in the middle of the wall. Heel hook left around the arete and slap up with your left hand for the good pocket on the arete (thumb in pocket, hand around the arete). Left foot onto the arete, on those ripply foothold crozzles, right foot into shallow pocket out right above the hole. Slap up again with your left about eight inches higher. Stretch for the break......

[dave k]

I did Starlight and Storm on the LHS, without using the left arete today. Completely eliminate mind, but a big last move from the 2 finger pocket to the break (about v7).

I still cant even get off the ground on the RHS of the arete- it is a big span to the pocket on the face which I guess suits those with long arms. I have been trying to bounce up to slopers on the face left of the pocket, but they are pretty shite.