[andy_e]

Anyone got any tips, training, eating etc.?

[fatdoc]

live yur life like I do.. not

stress, beer, training tired, worried over work and trying to sort all the rest of yr life out...


live in a van, on yr own, no www. access, get a bit beardy... leave off the booze.. and dont work.



good luck!

[GCW]

Don't drink 10 pints a night for the week before your contest.   

[clm]

Anyone got any tips, training, eating etc.?

Hows about don't enter a competition?

[fatdoc]

yep.. they are arse IMO

[fatdoc]

unless you are a wad and gonna win whatever.... then they are wkd

[andy_e]

It'll still be fun, I'm not gonna win but I might beat my mates, surely that's what counts?

[Paul B]

yep.. they are arse IMO

hmmm i'd have to agree that i'm no longer a fan, they just keep getting weirder and weirder, bolt-ons hanging off string anyone?

Andi: just try not to trash your skin beforehand.

[Jaspersharpe]

bolt-ons hanging off string anyone?

WTF? Seriously?

Not really sure why all this novelty shit needs bringing into competitions. Leading comps are like watching paint dry but provided you've got a decent set of hard problems a bouldering comp should be good entertainment for competitors and spectators without having to resort to daft gimmicks.

Good luck andi. My advice would be to treat it like a normal climbing day in respect of training and stuff in the week before and like Paul says, easy on the skin.

[dobbin]

Depends how serious you want to be about it. I mean, I have known people climb the day before, and others rest a week. It also depends on the intensity with which you have been training leading up to the event, and how long you take to recover. Young punks take less time than old codgers too. Personally I would be looking at three days rest. I wouldnt drink alcohol at all in the preceding week (but croxall would, and it never stopped him) and I would watch what I eat. 

As for comps or not comps, since stopping comping seriously I am much happier, I have improved my climbing outside etc etc, but you have to go through the mill to come out the other side, so I wouldnt warn you off them. I had fun whilst I did them, but it was time for me to stop (and that I couldnt cope with still more failure).

[a dense loner]

come now dobbin, didn't someone once say "failure is not always failure". maybe my binary's letting me down tho
01001 10100 10011 00010 01001 01001 01110 00001 10111 01000 01001 01100 00101

[SA Chris]

Andi, I am assuming this is a small local bouldering comp at the wall? I did my first one last week in about 2 years. Didn't take it too seriously and really enjoyed it. Probably because a ) it wasn't too crowded and b) there was plenty of time to do it c) most of the probs were pretty straighforward.

I would just do what you normally do, and maybe not train for 2 days before. Would not miss a day outside because of it though, it's only indoor climbing after all. As soon as you start feeling like you are you are preparing for it you will start taking it too seriously.

[Scouse D]

I've entered a few local comps and soon came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth it.I saw so many people taking it far too seriously to the point where you could regularly spot people cheating and 'ignoring' dabs, and 'forgetting' that they'd already had an attempt.
I enjoyed the comps because you got to climb on new, clean and generally interesting problems. The people who forgot to enjoy themselves ruined it for me.

[dave]

thats deep like a navy seal.

[chappers]

plywood masters i assume. beers out round blackburn the night before, that is the only way!
seriously Waller is resting all week, ponse.

[lagerstarfish]

I entered a couple of the comps at The Works last winter. Had loads of fun and climbed way better than I expected.

The comps were on Fridays. On the Mondays I did problems that were at my limit (up to 7a ish), but which I had already worked out - trying to get them as smooth and controlled as possible (doing some several times to get them as smooth as I could). On the Wednesdays I did easy problems (mostly 6a and below) climbing quickly and not stopping to think too much. I really went for it on the evening of the comps - on sighting a few problems right at my limit (7a/7a+). Took me about 5 days to recover after each comp.
 
No science behind it, but worked for me. The combination of atmosphere, clean holds and concentration resulted in my two best indoor sessions of the year.

[Paul B]

I've entered a few local comps and soon came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth it.I saw so many people taking it far too seriously to the point where you could regularly spot people cheating and 'ignoring' dabs, and 'forgetting' that they'd already had an attempt.
I enjoyed the comps because you got to climb on new, clean and generally interesting problems. The people who forgot to enjoy themselves ruined it for me.

not to mention that some have now become queing competitions...

[SA Chris]

not to mention that some have now become queing competitions...

One thing that used to piss me off with the ones at Dundee wall. Especially when there are some harder problems overlapping.

[andy_e]

plywood masters i assume.

Yes boss, I presume I'll see you there?

seriously Waller is resting all week, ponse.

Isn't he injured?

[Jim]

come now dobbin, didn't someone once say "failure is not always failure". maybe my binary's letting me down tho
01001 10100 10011 00010 01001 01001 01110 00001 10111 01000 01001 01100 00101

I concur 010111 011 011011000001 0 11001010111 010110110

[Stubbs]

01000001 01110100 00100000 01101100 01100101 01100001 01110011 01110100 00100000 01101101 01100001 01101011 01100101 00100000 01110100 01101000 01100101 00100000 01100101 01100110 01100110 01101111 01110010 01110100 00100000 01100001 01101110 01100100 00100000 01110111 01110010 01101001 01110100 01100101 00100000 01110011 01101111 01101101 01100101 01110100 01101000 01101001 01101110 01100111 00100000 01101111 01100110 01100110 01100101 01101110 01110011 01101001 01110110 01100101 00100000 01110101 01110011 01101001 01101110 01100111 00100000 01100001 00100000 01100010 01101001 01101110 01100001 01110010 01111001 00100000 01110100 01110010 01100001 01101110 01110011 01101100 01100001 01110100 01101111 01110010

 

[a dense loner]

afraid i just did it old school, like caesar would, for the purposes of a private joke. thought it was more fun than running it through an encoder, tho i was probably wrong there

[Stubbs]

You are right of course, as always, my humble apologies for butting in.

[dobbin]

Does anyone understand? God knows I dont. Wish I hadnt linked it now,everyone has picked up on the binary finary.

[GCW]

Does anyone understand? God knows I dont.

At least make the effort and write something offensive using a binary translator

Wish I hadnt linked it now,everyone has picked up on the binary finary.

1999 was an ace tune!!

[a dense loner]

there are no secrets on the web dobbin

[dave]

Wish I hadnt linked it now,everyone has picked up on the binary finary.

1999 was an ace tune!!

that positiva label certainly churned out some classics back then. toca me, belissima, ayla, nightmare and that BBE track.  those were the days etc.

[Fiend]

hmmm i'd have to agree that i'm no longer a fan, they just keep getting weirder and weirder, bolt-ons hanging off string anyone?

LOL  At least you didn't have to pull on it or anything.

I thought there was a fair amount of straight pulling overall, gotta have a few novelties to keep the pretence of it being something a bit more involved than a campussing comp.

P.S. I agree with Chris - put a bit of effort into the preparation but not too much cos it's just fun n shizzle. I quite liked entering comps as they make you try hard to flash problems...

[Bubba]

that positiva label certainly churned out some classics back then. toca me, belissima, ayla, nightmare and that BBE track.  those were the days etc.

They turned out a lot of fucking annoying cheesy trance that's for sure   And don't get me started on that overpaid, pug-faced fucker Oakenfold...

But i do confess to having a few positiva's in my collection so can't really moan

[andy_e]

I wasn't last! 30th out of 40's not too shabby...

[Bubba]

Nice one