[Three Nine]

anyone know if there's footage of this? 8B+ sitter into 9a route?!

[slackline]

Could be this as its described as a project...

[Somebody's Fool]

He did Deliverance as well today.  The guy's unstoppable.

[r-man]

...the sit start to Ali Hulk Extension that Dani climbed is not V14. There are two different variations on where to do the low start from, either a V9 start or a V14 start. Dani did the V9 start. So what Dave [Graham] said was in fact correct, and when the route gets done from the V14 sit start it will probably be 5.15c.

And finally, when they mean "sit start" it doesnt literally mean sitting down and doing a few moves into the start; since it's a cave you do about 8 or 9 moves of resistance to the jug start hold. So it isn't as stupid as it sounds. Ive seen the cave and the route that Dani did, and although it isnt the most beautiful line, it does make sense and isnt just an awkward variation.

Hope that clears it up.

More on Dani's blog - http://daniandrada.petzlteam.com//index.php/post/2007/11/14/9b-in-Rodellar

[Houdini]

If you climbed it in a bouldering style sans rope mit pads you are bouldering.  Agreed?  Agreed!

Fucking give it a bouldering grade then.  Or is it a case of the  V or Font grade not being über-on the cusp so I'll give it 9b?

You are not route climbing, you clip no bolts, no rope is tied into, there are spotters!  You are bouldering.  Sort it out. 

[GCW]

Sorry, what point are you trying to get across Houdini?   

[Houdini]

OK smartass it's Font 9B?




Weeeeeeeeeeeeeell, why didn't you say so!



Que?  Radges.

[Paul B]

If you climbed it in a bouldering style sans rope mit pads you are bouldering.  Agreed?  Agreed!

Fucking give it a bouldering grade then.  Or is it a case of the  V or Font grade not being über-on the cusp so I'll give it 9b?

You are not route climbing, you clip no bolts, no rope is tied into, there are spotters!  You are bouldering.  Sort it out. 

Hmmm but what if a route grade describes the probelm better? it therefore makes sense to use a route grade non?

[Houdini]

Style of ascent.




Blurring distinctions serves no-one.  It's plain as day that Dani is bouldering just as it was with The Man on Hugh.  Stop confusing matters.  Climbing is not climbing and never has been.  This is bouldering.  He has made a bewilderingly out-there problem - but that's all it is (no more).  As if it isn't enough.  Wads should not be so muddled upstairs.

[Andy F]

Fucking give it a bouldering grade then.  Or is it a case of the  V or Font grade not being über-on the cusp so I'll give it 9b?

Erm, didn't Malc give the Big Link F9a 'cos he thought a route grade was more appropriate   and he'd be the one who would know what to give a problem/route like that (or Dani's if he tried it)

[Houdini]

Climb Pilgrimage and you will have climbed an amazing boulder problem in Parisellas.  Not taking anything away just trying to get people to see that a spade's a spade.

There are no routes in Parisellas.  Malc is confusing matters.  Like he needs too!

[slackline]

A mild sense of, deja vu with regards to linking/extending bouldering problems.

Wheel of Life essentially links a couple of problems together and still gets a bouldering grade despite the length.  Any reason why this shouldn't?

[GCW]

Houdini- isn't the 9b grade for doing the font 8b+ problem then finishing up the F9a route?  That would make a route grade more sense.  Like the Powerband/ PUTP combo.  Yeah, if you do Powerband and step off award yourself font 7c.  But, if you carry on up PUTP give yourself a F9a.  Or am I missing something here?

[Houdini]

What is this obsession with length?


Have routes always been longer and boulder problems shorter so that when a problem outstays it's welcome it is rebranded?

STYLE OF ASCENT:  Mats, spotters, proximity to deck, no harness, ropes, wires, bolts clipped, rest positions milked in order to clip etc.. etc..

The dude is bouldering.

GCW.  It doesn't matter, a trend is emerging here amongst those grading unusually long boulder problems.  Eggs is still eggs.

[Pantontino]

Climb Pilgrimage and you will have climbed an amazing boulder problem in Parisellas.

I'm just made up that Houdini finally said something positive about the Cave of Justice! I knew he'd come round to our way of thinking in the end.

[Houdini]

Fear not Simon,





I'm being treppaned as I type.   (Easy on the grey matter, you bitch!)

[dom]

from daniandrada.petzlteam.com

you have to wear a harness and rope because the upper part gets pretty high. There are 8 bolts in total, though I myself only clipped the last 3.

it climbs like a route, it has bolts, he was wearing a harness, he clipped bolts

i don't understand what the debate is about

[Houdini]

And that, Ladies and Gentlemen, was that.

[Pantontino]

What size drill bit they using on you Houdini? I reckon 18mm is too big.

[Houdini]

Scoff!  Do. 


But I insisted on a Natural Trephination, at home.


Watch that space.

[Houdini]

9b my crenellated 'arris!


Fuck!






If the chips were down - forfeits decided - he wouldn't last five minutes with Nodder and I at Shithead.

[Sloper]

I think we need Feind to comment on whether this is E0 or not.

[Fiend]

E0 7b (sustained)