[jimacp]

What do you think about the 4-3-2-1 training periodisation suggested for intermediate climbers by Eric Horst? 

His system is based on the following cycle:

4 wks tactics & endurance
3 wks strength & power
2 wks anaerobic endurance
1 wk rest

Does anyone have experience or opinions on this?  Is the 4 weeks of tactics and endurance training time well spent or is it over emphasised? 

I suspect that focusing purely on aerobic endurance routes for almost half the cycle is too much.  Finger strength takes a long time to develop and is best attained through a low volume of high loads.  So would it make sense to include a small volume of high load finger hangs at the beginning of the evening during the endurance phase?  That way finger strength can be improved through 7 weeks of the 10 week cycle. 

I've read some literature which recommends training only a single energy path each session to avoid 'confusing' the body.  So no mixing of aerobic endurance with anaerobic endurance or max power.  But others suggest training both fast and slow twitch fibres in the same session.

Any opinions?   

[account_inactive]

I hate to say this, but it all depends on what you are training for and what style of climbing you will be doing.  Unless you are a beginner, then the 1st cycle would be a waste of time (in that length) for a boulderer.

If you want to read more on periodisation then check out http://www.tudorbompa.com/ who is one of the authorities. 

There are many ways to arrange the training cycles to arrange a 'peak' for a season or climb.  Personally I think that it is better to have as many peaks as possible within the year, with focus on trips and problems.

Hope this helps

[Serpico]

4-3-2-1 like most of Horst's work is utter bollocks. The phases are too short, too vague, and don't include any maintenance work.
If you take the strength phase for example; you do a vague 'strength' phase (hypertrophy?Recruitment?) for 3 wks and then don't do another for 7 wks (including a wks rest). Any strength gains you make in 3 wks, even if you train hypertrophy, will be neural: they come quick and they go quick, so how are you expected to maintain, never mind improve, from one cycle to the next?
The thing to remember about Horst is he's a weather researcher, not a climbing coach, has no background in sports science, and is a punter.
As already suggested if you're serious about periodisation  check out Bompa's 'Periodization Training For Sports'. But beware it's heavy going and doesn't specifically cover climbing.

[neil h]

i once did a 9 1 drop down on big rungs does this count

[jimacp]

Actually i've just got 'Periodization Training for Sports'.  As you say, it is pretty heavy going but seems to be well grounded. 

From my understanding so far;

Adaption phase (Horst's tactics and endurance) is more appropriate for athletes returning from an off-season in a team sport.

The hypertrophy phase is perhaps undesirable for climbers - better to gain strength without gaining bulk.

The recruitment phase would seem to be the most relevant to maximum strength gain for climbing.  Bompa doesn't seem to give a re comended length for this phase but presumably it would be the primary mode for boulderers 

Conversion would then be relevant if also wanting to increase power endurance for long boulders or short routes.  If so, Bompa states 4 weeks as a minimum, 6 weeks more likely for making the adaptations required.

I don't really have any desire to peak at a particular time..  just want to continue getting better at boulders and short routes. 

http://melhuish.org/climb/training.html describes a 'focused interval plan' where max strength/power and power endurance are trained continually though the emphasis shifts.  Think i might use this as a base, something like:

4 weeks hard bouldering 2 days per week, milage 1 day
2 weeks hard bouldering 1 day, power endurance 1 day, milage 1 day
4 weeks power endurance 2 days, milage 1 day
2 weeks hard bouldering 1 day, power endurance 1 day, milage 1 day

I'll have to think about how best to work in a suitable amount of maintainace for max strength/power during the power endurance phase and vice versa.