[GCW]

I'm not sure we're talking about the same thing. 

[tomtom]

Probably.. Going from Right to Left (is this Rmans leftwards ) from the starting holds for the mantel in the pic above...

[GCW]

I did a traverse from my mantel (really low ball at the far left end, ass scraper) rightwards along the lip, all the way around to finish up the arête adjacent to the neighbouring boulder.  Good value.

[r-man]

Linking into the 5+ break trav on the downhill face? Grade?

[GCW]

No, alang the top. Been a while, but was certainly sub-7.  6c?

[tomtom]

No, alang the top. Been a while, but was certainly sub-7.  6c?

Same money then. Good.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8146.msg377750.html#msg377750

[GCW]

Yes, the hardest bit will be the same section I suspect.  Nice though.

[Plattsy]

Cracking place up there. Loved the wilderness feel to it.

No surprise the traverse has been done before one way or the other. I'd used up all my sloper beans when I tried it L to R. If it doesn't have a name already Lippy Traverse would be a good name as there's been a bit of chat about it. 

Found a link to a Blackstones topo on the old UKB vimeo page however you just get a VimeUhOh broken link page. Is this topo available somewhere else?

Spent Saturday night  and thinking up sequences for that project up from the aforementioned traverse. Currently thinking starting with hands crossed with outside right foot edge on the pebble might work.

[GCW]

Drop me your e-mail via a PM and I'll send you the topo.  Vimeo stopped allowing file attachments a while ago so nothing is online at present.

[r-man]

Maybe you could upload some of your guides to the ukb wiki?

I'll put the trav down as Lippy Traverse 6C (unless there are objections).

[tomtom]

Maybe you could upload some of your guides to the ukb wiki?

I'll put the trav down as Lippy Traverse 6C (unless there are objections).

Sounds great - or... Lippy traverse from L-R (GCW way) and Traverse Lippy from R-L (Plattsy way)

[slackline]

Drop me your e-mail via a PM and I'll send you the topo.  Vimeo stopped allowing file attachments a while ago so nothing is online at present.

UKB Wiki now permits PDF attachments so could stick things there (perhaps within the pertinent "Venues" section).

[GCW]

OK, I wasn't aware of that.  Is there a size limit, as some of the guides are over 20MB.

[r-man]

Just stumbled on Poetry Atlas and came across this verse from the Lancashire Burns...

Oh the Wild, Wild Moors
Edwin Waugh

I.
My heart's away in the lonely hills,
    Where I would gladly be—
On the rolling ridge of Blackstone Edge,
    Where the wild wind whistles free!
There oft in careless youth I roved,
    When summer days were fine;
And the meanest flower of the heathery waste
    Delights this heart of mine!
    Oh, the lonely moors, the breezy moors,
        And the stormy hills so free;
    Oh, the wild, wild moors; the wild, wild moors,
        The sweet wild moors for me.

[tomtom]

Excellent I've added a contemporary ending based on Saturday...

Oh the Wild, Wild Moors
Edwin Waugh

I.
My heart's away in the lonely hills,
    Where I would gladly be—
On the rolling ridge of Blackstone Edge,
    Where the wild wind whistles free!
There oft in careless youth I roved,
    When summer days were fine;
And the meanest flower of the heathery waste
    Delights this heart of mine!
    Oh, the lonely moors, the breezy moors,
        And the stormy hills so free;
    Oh, tits why these two bouldering mats,
        did I bring with me;
    Oh, for with this sail I blow everywhere,
        unless I doth tread carefully.
    Oh, the wild, wild moors; the wild, wild moors,
        The sweet wild moors for me.

[r-man]

 

Can't think why the exclamation Oh, tits doesn't feature in more 19th Century poetry!

[Plattsy]

Been up again tonight mooching around the Left Section. Really windy again but enjoyed it. Robin's Slap is brill and oddly felt easier than it's poorer neighbour. 

The sun peeped out once and using a rocks tripod I grabbed a photo.


20121003_164111 by Plattsy1979, on Flickr

Climbed a little left hand arete to the left of the anvil from a sitter and a twin arete huggy problem just up behind the aforementioned arete, also from a sitter. They'll have been done before however provided a bit of respite after getting scared on the anvil top outs!

Reckon eliminating the little arete would be a tough sit start, one move dyno up the wall.

Then the rain came!!

[r-man]

Nice shot.

Have done the sitter arete just left of the anvil - yeah, I looked at the no arete possibility, would be pretty hard.

Don't think I've done the double arete behind that, will have a look next time.

[Plattsy]

The double arete problem is probably a 5 or so, maybe easier. Crouching start. Right on the RH arete side pull blobby jug and LH on a greenish sloper.
Moved a block to improve the landing and failed. Couldn't move it back.

[tomtom]

From yesterday afternoons visit:



I came in from the south - took 25 min each way and is a bit flatter though slightly boggier than the approach from the north. I think its probably 5 min longer..

I also did this problem on the RH side (not in the topo) from a sit. Was good value c.6B maybe a wee bit more. There was also a big block with JB carved into it just to the right of this, which had a few nice probs in the 5's...

[GCW]

That's a nice problem actually.

There's a lot of stuff been done/ repeated since that old topo.  Really needs an update.

[Big Dave]

I came in from the south - took 25 min each way and is a bit flatter though slightly boggier than the approach from the north. I think its probably 5 min longer..

Thanks for the info, out of interest, where did you park? I'm assuming near that big antenna and then cross the bridge over the M62?

I've done the North approach before, but might try this next time.

Agree with the Robins Slap problem, probably the one I enjoyed the most when I went along with the slab on the blocks at the far end.

[tomtom]

Yup, from the Mway head south, ignore the tiny road up to the antenna (well you could park there I guess) and go another 150m up the road where there is a huge lay by on the right. The path (its the pennine way) goes from there and you really cant miss it!

I think from the south is actually a bit easier than from the north - no galumphing up the final hill - and once you get past the Mway is slightly sheltered from the wind.. but it is a bit noisier (Motorway) until you're about 1/2 way there.. so coming from the North would give you a better wilderness experience!!

Its also quite fun/odd/thought provoking, crossing the Mway on a foot bridge watching everyone rushing about after you've just had a great boulder/walk.. (though I did then join the rat race 10 min later!)

[Big Dave]

Thanks. I'd be coming through Oldham/Denshaw so better than doing the extra mileage through Rochdale/Littleborough to get there.

As you say it's a lung busting approach up the hill from the North, similar to Wimberry in a way.

[tomtom]

Thanks. I'd be coming through Oldham/Denshaw so better than doing the extra mileage through Rochdale/Littleborough to get there.

As you say it's a lung busting approach up the hill from the North, similar to Wimberry in a way.

More of a gentle amble from the south Though crossing the Mway bridge could be a bit spicy with a mat in full wind!