Blackstones (Read 78970 times)

GCW · November 22, 2011, 10:15:44 am

Should be quite soon, guide work to do!

Big Dave · November 22, 2011, 10:26:32 am

A great venue (if you don't mind the walk in), I was up there about a year ago and keep meaning to go back, never got round to trying the problems behind the trig point.

Offwidth · November 22, 2011, 03:56:39 pm

I thought there was some vague agreement about not describing stuff up there. I'd done a 100+ easier problems right of the crag and a dozen or so in the roadside quarry following an intro from Mark C (and a promise not to list stuff in detail on the web). He will want blood, especially from Sloper who I thought was shown the place by Marc as well.

r-man · November 22, 2011, 04:06:55 pm

Marc C has no problem with the topo - he has helped out in the past. We met up with him back in 2006 I think. He was working on a guide, but never got round to finishing it, so GCW did the honours. Here he is.

GCW · November 22, 2011, 04:15:12 pm

R-Man and I met up with Marc when I was doing my 2008 topo, he had no objections. If you look on page one of this thread there's a photo of him.

We have actively sought to lusher with people that have climbed here for Yeats. After the weekend it became evident that between Nik, R-Man and myself we have done a lot more than was previously part of circuits.

The BMC want to include the bouldering in the new guide. Surely it's better that it is based on as much past work as possible?

r-man · November 22, 2011, 05:15:44 pm

Quote from: GCW on November 22, 2011, 04:15:12 pm

We have actively sought to lusher with people that have climbed here for Yeats.

Marc C was particularly good at lushering, though I can't remember what he said about Yeats.

GCW · November 22, 2011, 05:18:08 pm

Bloody AutoCorrect.

andyh · November 22, 2011, 09:46:15 pm

Will you be previewing the guide?

I had a few days there a few years back but would need photo's to go from to say what I did and what I didn't. One thing I've never noticed mentioned on here is the small edge set back from the main edge and first boulders with some amazing sit-start probs.

See what I mean about needing photos

GCW · November 22, 2011, 10:30:47 pm

Have you got my topo? May make more sense.

andyh · November 22, 2011, 11:23:51 pm

I've not, but I just had a look at peakbouldering and it suggests that the "back edges" may have been where I was at, the descriptions of some of the problems certainly seem familiar. is your topo still available? i had a look at it a few years ago (and had done some of the stuff on it) but don't remember the back edges being on there

r-man · November 22, 2011, 11:40:43 pm

Blackstone Topo

andyh · November 23, 2011, 06:07:33 pm

Cheers, had a nice look through that. The only ones I can be sure I did that are assigned to someone else rather than just classics of the past are Niks Left and Pocket Dyno, but I'm not too fussed about claiming credit, Russel Bowman could be an old skool legend for all I know.

Interesting that a lot of the stuff I remember on the main edge (an awesome slab and a blocky nose) still don't seem to have had attention, or is there a lot more secret stuff waiting to be added?

GCW · November 23, 2011, 06:20:10 pm

The credits are based on what knowledge we managed to gain, through the mists of history. If you know better, please speak up.

RB did stuff more recently, so if you know it's been done before then I'd be interested to know so details can be accurate.

We only named things that looked filthy and that we weren't aware had been done, basically because a named problem is more likely to get attention than a problem with no name.

As I said in the guide, I am keen to get as much info as possible so credits are accurate and justice can be done.

This latest guide will be selective for the new Brick, so don't expect everything to be included. I think that's good for Blackstone, discovery an adventure is part of the allure.

Offwidth · November 24, 2011, 02:55:22 pm

Thanks for the reply.

I'll contact MarcC and commiserate the end of an era (he fell off on an old favorite up there and pranged himself last I heard). No one lushered us through the BMC so I'll also check with Ian Carr whats going on.

Well done on the good work btw if it's all out there now.

r-man · March 03, 2012, 11:30:01 pm

Weather for Monday looks great. Assuming this stays the case, I'm heading up there to check out a few projects I spied two weeks ago, and climb the nice looking walls I haven't tried around the trig point area. Anyone care to join me?

r-man · September 28, 2012, 03:43:31 pm

Weather looks alright for tomorrow. Anyone keen?

Happy to show people around - I'm in the process of documenting problems for the lancs guide and there are currently around twenty 7's, loads of 6's and below, and a few projects.

tomtom · September 28, 2012, 04:43:13 pm

Quote from: r-man on September 28, 2012, 03:43:31 pm

Weather looks alright for tomorrow. Anyone keen?

Happy to show people around - I'm in the process of documenting problems for the lancs guide and there are currently around twenty 7's, loads of 6's and below, and a few projects.

Hey Rman, I've never been there, but theres been a twitter debate between myself, Grubes and Plattsy about where to go tomorrow.... CYL and Thorn have been bounded around - but this could be an option... Blackstones as in NW of Rochdale? I'll dm you a mobile number...
T

GCW · September 28, 2012, 04:49:18 pm

If the weather's right, it'd be a good day out. But take your wellies and a tarp!

I'm at another kid's party Robin, otherwise I'd be keen.

r-man · September 28, 2012, 05:17:24 pm

Yep, that's the crag. The more the merrier!

Gareth, I think the tarp is only needed for a couple of the back edge blocks and the Nick's Trav boulder. Stuff on the main boulders/slopey top/trig point/end boulders should be fine. Shame you can't come - your kids seem to be partying all year round!

GCW · September 28, 2012, 05:32:59 pm

They have a far better social life than I do!!

r-man · September 28, 2012, 07:09:09 pm

This thread reminded me - I filmed a couple of nice Blackstone boulders in August. Wind + cloud = perfect conditions in summer...

r-man · September 30, 2012, 12:43:56 pm

Bit too windy up on the moor yesterday, but we did a proper slopey right to left trav of the lip of this wall. Has it been done before? Gareth? About 6B+.

Also discovered that if it's too windy at Blackstone Edge, Higher Chelburn is a good option. Did a new 7A and 7B+ with Polish Dave, some funky moves.

GCW · September 30, 2012, 01:09:54 pm

From my silly mantel rightwards around the lip? Yes, good fun.

r-man · September 30, 2012, 01:17:01 pm

Leftwards! Didn't try it rightwards. Sure it's much the same though.

tomtom · September 30, 2012, 01:42:59 pm

Quote from: r-man on September 30, 2012, 01:17:01 pm

Leftwards! Didn't try it rightwards. Sure it's much the same though.

Plattsy got it first - it traverses R-L hanging the lip from where the chap in the picture started. Hard moves in the middle sharing on a sloper of not a lot... We mooted 6C...

Was good to have a look around - thanks R-Man - it really was too windy to enjoy it properly - another day... Glad you got a good problem or two in at the other place.