[Nibile]

Managed to sneak out for a few laps of my own private road racing circuit on a sunny afternoon!!!
 

[MischaHY]

Having finally managed to do the stopper move on my long-term boulder project a couple of sessions ago, I discovered yesterday that I don't even need to do the bastard - I can skip it by simply going long to the next hold which is easier and more reliable (the move was right hand up, then then again with right but much wider). Immediately started doing longer links into it after several sessions of glacial progress  Felt a little surreal.

[SA Chris]

I have mentioned that my son (3 of 4) was on the spectrum. He has been variously assessed for Dyspraxia and Autism etc. His difficulties put him under the care the school Councilor, on the SENS Regester and he struggled through Primary. Turned 12 in November.
I was really quite worried about the start of Secondary. He passed his 11+ so followed his sister into the Grammar stream (which I was hoping might be better for him than having to deal with the general population).
Anyway, despite this being one seriously screwed up year and missing the last 3rd of year 6, he’s really thrived.
He even asked for a skateboard for his birthday. If you’ve experienced a child who might be Dyspraxic then you’ll know why that scared me shitless, but this is his fist attempt:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHTPs6JDlAm/?igshid=iwcgkze15ium

Dude has just plain changed. Still overly obsessed with Greek mythology and history and tends to get into verbal loops or verbal diarrhoea, but definitely a different kid.

I got a phone call yesterday. He’s doing so well, has a large social group and several friends etc, that he’s been taken off the SENS regester. Excellent report, even in PE.

I missed this, it's great news and gives me a bit of hope. Kyle has Asperger's / ASC and is moving to Academy in the summer. We had considered Grammar route, but finances and logistics prohibit it (only nearby one is Aberdeen City Centre, and he'd not cope with public transport). Added to which he's the youngest in his year (Christmas Birthday, with age cutoff in Scotland the end of the year). We're concerned to say the least, hopefully the change will do him good too.

[Oldmanmatt]

I have mentioned that my son (3 of 4) was on the spectrum. He has been variously assessed for Dyspraxia and Autism etc. His difficulties put him under the care the school Councilor, on the SENS Regester and he struggled through Primary. Turned 12 in November.
I was really quite worried about the start of Secondary. He passed his 11+ so followed his sister into the Grammar stream (which I was hoping might be better for him than having to deal with the general population).
Anyway, despite this being one seriously screwed up year and missing the last 3rd of year 6, he’s really thrived.
He even asked for a skateboard for his birthday. If you’ve experienced a child who might be Dyspraxic then you’ll know why that scared me shitless, but this is his fist attempt:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHTPs6JDlAm/?igshid=iwcgkze15ium

Dude has just plain changed. Still overly obsessed with Greek mythology and history and tends to get into verbal loops or verbal diarrhoea, but definitely a different kid.

I got a phone call yesterday. He’s doing so well, has a large social group and several friends etc, that he’s been taken off the SENS regester. Excellent report, even in PE.

I missed this, it's great news and gives me a bit of hope. Kyle has Asperger's / ASC and is moving to Academy in the summer. We had considered Grammar route, but finances and logistics prohibit it (only nearby one is Aberdeen City Centre, and he'd not cope with public transport). Added to which he's the youngest in his year (Christmas Birthday, with age cutoff in Scotland the end of the year). We're concerned to say the least, hopefully the change will do him good too.

My eldest beat the cut off for her year group by three days. Always the smallest in her year and basically as much as a year behind her peers. Fortunately, she’s probably the strongest member of our little tribe, but it worried me for the first few years of school and again at the start of Comp.
Again now, to be honest. Now she’s a 15 yr old, who’s friends are all 16 or 17, some even starting to drive...

My first cousin, has Aspergers, but managed well through the Grammar system here in the Bay, he’s a language wizz, but even now, takes upwards of a hour to clean his teeth (more should he lose count of strokes) and never let him pack his own bag if you need to catch a flight at some point upto a month away. He’s going to turn 60 soon, lives in France and teaches languages. We, though, as a consequence, grew up with it. Reasonably close knit family (that’s the Italian side).

For several years, we employed a young man, who though never formally diagnosed, was quite probably on there somewhere and not at a particularly shallow point, either.
He got himself into trouble at his College and did quite a bit of damage to our business. Simply because he lacked filters and basically went off without fully processing things and wasn’t receptive to outside intervention. The college gave up and expelled him.
We took him on as an apprentice.
Amazing the difference that a more one to one approach had.
He left us after six years, just before Xmas, to move to Chamonix. His ambition is to be a guide and I reckon he’ll do it.
The wall turned out to be a brilliant environment for him to, unconsciously, develop his social skills. He’ll hate me for writing that, but I’m not sure he ever grasped how difficult he was as a teen. Still a great bloke, now.

[Nibile]

Having finally managed to do the stopper move on my long-term boulder project a couple of sessions ago, I discovered yesterday that I don't even need to do the bastard - I can skip it by simply going long to the next hold which is easier and more reliable (the move was right hand up, then then again with right but much wider). Immediately started doing longer links into it after several sessions of glacial progress  Felt a little surreal.

I take it that your project is on ze rockz, so fair dos.
Apart from that, I can't possibly imagine how you can resist the need to climb it with the old, harder sequence.

[tomtom]

Having finally managed to do the stopper move on my long-term boulder project a couple of sessions ago, I discovered yesterday that I don't even need to do the bastard - I can skip it by simply going long to the next hold which is easier and more reliable (the move was right hand up, then then again with right but much wider). Immediately started doing longer links into it after several sessions of glacial progress  Felt a little surreal.

I love stuff like this. I am such an 'incremental' climber that everything happens in tiny steps... funny how projecting stuff can yield real satisfaction even with small gains (though this sounds like a bigger one...).

[Dexter]

Having finally managed to do the stopper move on my long-term boulder project a couple of sessions ago, I discovered yesterday that I don't even need to do the bastard - I can skip it by simply going long to the next hold which is easier and more reliable (the move was right hand up, then then again with right but much wider). Immediately started doing longer links into it after several sessions of glacial progress  Felt a little surreal.

I take it that your project is on ze rockz, so fair dos.
Apart from that, I can't possibly imagine how you can resist the need to climb it with the old, harder sequence.

Got to get those big grades for bad beta right?

But in all seriousness good effort making progress. Always nice to make improvements.

[MischaHY]

I take it that your project is on ze rockz, so fair dos.
Apart from that, I can't possibly imagine how you can resist the need to climb it with the old, harder sequence.

Ahh yeah it's on the rock and the move was a bump which seems to make things easier for most people.

Here's the move I'm skipping: https://www.instagram.com/p/CHv4zz8KQC3/

And here's how it looks now linking into it (foot pops off after catching the hold): https://www.instagram.com/p/CMPFapbKM6p/

It's probably a morphological difference as multiple people have already told me they can't do it the way I'm doing it now or find it harder. The whole boulder itself is a 6m rising traverse so whilst the individual moves are certainly hard, the meat of the thing is more about getting into the big links and going into full-on battle mode to try and get to the end before the gas runs out and without making a mistake. It's 14 moves (plus foot movements) of desperation and minging lime crimps. I love it!

I agree that if on a board I would be unreasonably obsessed with doing the harder version

[MischaHY]

I love stuff like this. I am such an 'incremental' climber that everything happens in tiny steps... funny how projecting stuff can yield real satisfaction even with small gains (though this sounds like a bigger one...).

Mint, isn't it. This one is great because it fits my strengths well (crimpy/techy/power endurancy) and is a traverse meaning you can easily work all the sections individually. I managed the second half at the end of 2019 but the first half and full link is a big step up in terms of physicality plus you need a lot more margin on the second half having already burnt a load of power on the burly first half. It's one of those very techy things where you need to crack the body position and movement perfectly and then it starts feeling a lot more doable. So thankful to finally be back on rock pulling hard after months of training at home in the dark/cold 

[SA Chris]

Mint, isn't it.

Kudos for second language skills? Up there with Nibs and jwi (although English might be his third).

[MischaHY]

Mint, isn't it.

Kudos for second language skills? Up there with Nibs and jwi (although English might be his third).

You're very kind but I'm british, just based in Germany for the last 4 years 

[SA Chris]

Ah fair dos.

[Duma]

19:52 5k
YYFY!
Psched to get one of the lockdown aims ticked.

[/running interjection]

[gollum]

19:52 5k
YYFY!
Psched to get one of the lockdown aims ticked.

[/running interjection]

Top effort. Well done

[James Malloch]

Did my board project recently (last session) and just managed to repeat it 2nd go today. Psyched to see improvement!

This session was a warm up for some kilnsey bouldering so hopefully it’s still dry and I can get on some harder bits today 😁

[battery]

First post pregnancy 7a today, been a tough come back but chuffed to feel not just strong but confident on the rock again.

[Fiend]

What was it? And how did it feel?

[battery]

Hours of Practice at West Nab, techy crimpy slab which is absolutely my style and it felt pretty steady.  everyone else (including husband today) seems to Dyno the last move but I did it static which was extremely enjoyable.

[Wood FT]

Stylistic burn-off, nothing better

[ali k]

A few days late on posting this but finally completed on the house and got keys Thursday afternoon. Still at the giddy stage of walking round saying “this is my house...if I want to knock that wall down who’s gonna stop me?”

[Fiend]

Great choice battery, a cool, super-thin problem on lovely rock in a fine hidden gem area 

I did the last move via the dyno (well, sort of falling off backwards and catching the top before I was fully detached) and it was the best move I did that winter. I imagine static is even thinner.

[battery]

Great choice battery, a cool, super-thin problem on lovely rock in a fine hidden gem area 

I did the last move via the dyno (well, sort of falling off backwards and catching the top before I was fully detached) and it was the best move I did that winter. I imagine static is even thinner.

It is a fab spot, the kids loved it too. I turned the left hand into a bit of a side pull and got my right foot on the right hand starting hold and just stood up.

[andy popp]

Nice one Battery! - and Ali.

[battery]

Having been promoted on another thread, and publicly promising myself, I went out bouldering on my own today. I got spat off and shut down and then when I did get near the top of a problem I got scared and jumped off only to not be able to get up there again (that'll teach me!) but I had a glorious afternoon, absolutely loved it.

I realised whilst I was out that I did used to go out on my own sometimes - in what feels like a past life - and I think possibly the last time I did was when I fell off and knackered my ankle, that possibly put me off.

But I'm glad to be back in the game, thanks to those who suggested and supported it.

[Bradders]

Having been promoted on another thread, and publicly promising myself, I went out bouldering on my own today. I got spat off and shut down and then when I did get near the top of a problem I got scared and jumped off only to not be able to get up there again (that'll teach me!) but I had a glorious afternoon, absolutely loved it.

I realised whilst I was out that I did used to go out on my own sometimes - in what feels like a past life - and I think possibly the last time I did was when I fell off and knackered my ankle, that possibly put me off.

But I'm glad to be back in the game, thanks to those who suggested and supported it.

Awesome, glad you had a good time. Spending time alone in a beautiful place doing something you love is, in my opinion, one of life's great joys.