YYFY!!! (Read 2102922 times)

Will Hunt · April 02, 2017, 10:00:05 pm

Had another one today. Young Footwork and I pulled up at the parking for Brandrith in a thin drizzle. We umm'ed and ah'ed for a bit before deciding to walk in. An hour later Heaven In Your Hands was in the bag!
New bit of beta from Olly Parkinson. Keeping the same sequence as usual with the right foot smearing near the arete and left foot cocked around it. But instead of doing the hard deadpoint move to the right hand crimp (something I've never stuck before) straight away, you bump your right hand to the higher undercut and then go for the right hand crimp. This makes the move static and makes the whole thing much steadier!

Then Footwork did it. He didn't even give me the satisfaction of watching him fail after I'd done it, he just did it next go.

Pondering the grade afterwards, I mooted, "with that new sequence that might not even be out of place at 7B+", to which Footwork simply said "oh fucking hell, here we go".

Fiend · April 02, 2017, 11:00:10 pm

Gratz on your first 7B+ whatever that means. And more so, a classic problem despite an initially unpromising start to the day.

Sasquatch · April 04, 2017, 11:36:11 pm

Perfect day out yesterday. Warmed up at home, then headed out. Re-warmed up at the boulder. Then managed a send of a new 8A/+, a new 8A, and a repeat of an old 8A I put up from 2011.

Defo best single day I've ever had. Gotta love it when the stars align...

lemony · April 05, 2017, 09:29:11 am

Slightly late as this is over a week old but YYFY for my girlfriend (for whom climbing does not come naturally) getting her first 6A, immediately declaring it soft and demanding to know where the guide was so she could pick out something harder.

It didn't feel soft to me...

fatneck · April 05, 2017, 10:01:29 am

Loving the YYFY thread at the moment!

Minor one in the grand scheme but a biggie for me - I went out and ran 10k this morning! Been building up to it since giving up smoking properly back in August and starting couch to 5k after Christmas. Always hated running before but now realise I'd always approached it wrongly - loving it at the moment!

Was late for work as a result but sat at my desk buzzing now

Monolith · April 05, 2017, 10:17:50 am

Quote from: fatneck on April 05, 2017, 10:01:29 am

Loving the YYFY thread at the moment!

Minor one in the grand scheme but a biggie for me - I went out and ran 10k this morning! Been building up to it since giving up smoking properly back in August and starting couch to 5k after Christmas. Always hated running before but now realise I'd always approached it wrongly - loving it at the moment!

Was late for work as a result but sat at my desk buzzing now

Really pleased to read all of this mate. Jacking in the evil bifters will be the best thing you've ever done. Really hoping you keep up the psyche and come off piste with me soon. No funny stuff though.....

Also, massively inspiring story: http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/get-inspired/27994073

Will Hunt · April 05, 2017, 10:50:50 am

Psyche is high in these parts at the moment.

Quote from: lemony on April 05, 2017, 09:29:11 am

immediately declaring it soft and demanding to know where the guide was so she could pick out something harder.

She'll go far.

Si, your one is a biggie, full stop. Well done, mate.

SA Chris · April 05, 2017, 11:50:00 am

Quote from: fatneck on April 05, 2017, 10:01:29 am

Loving the YYFY thread at the moment!

Minor one in the grand scheme but a biggie for me - I went out and ran 10k this morning! Been building up to it since giving up smoking properly back in August and starting couch to 5k after Christmas. Always hated running before but now realise I'd always approached it wrongly - loving it at the moment!

Well done mate. Like I said, beware it's a slippery slope! I'm doing first half marathon in 30 years in August and signed up for the Ring of Steall 29km Skyline race (which i expect I'll deeply regret).

Partner managed 3:39 for Manchester Marathon on Sunday, so YYFY on her behalf. Downside is it's a good for age automatic qualifier for several of the big marathons around the world. So I don't think this is the end of it.

tomtom · April 05, 2017, 03:07:02 pm

Quote from: Sasquatch on April 04, 2017, 11:36:11 pm

Perfect day out yesterday. Warmed up at home, then headed out. Re-warmed up at the boulder. Then managed a send of a new 8A/+, a new 8A, and a repeat of an old 8A I put up from 2011.

Defo best single day I've ever had. Gotta love it when the stars align...

Great day!

Nibile · April 05, 2017, 04:30:42 pm

Great day Sasq!!!
For my part, it's been a good day as well: we've won an appeal and all the legal expenses, plus I've been contacted by a school for two weeks of teaching. Money that I'll spend on my motorcycle, and the rest I'll squander.
But most of all... I've ordered a Lattice Edge.

Yossarian · April 06, 2017, 08:08:38 am

Today's weigh in has revealed that I've lost 15kg since the start of January.

Was getting a bit worried as it had tailed off last week, so gave things a bit of extra effort over the past few days.

Still got at least another 10kg to go, but things are looking good...

Oldmanmatt · April 09, 2017, 09:26:35 pm

Youngest Daughter (

bagged her first outdoor (and second ever) lead today, on Sunseeker (f2) at Sharbutts on Portland.
Bottled it on the first clip at the first attempt, but when her (Quasi) twin brother (3 weeks older) bottled it on the second clip, the competitive little madam came back firing all guns through to the chains.
Brother had a hissy and stormed off...

Nibile · April 09, 2017, 10:33:28 pm

Johnny Brown · April 10, 2017, 01:34:37 pm

Quote

Pondering the grade afterwards, I mooted, "with that new sequence that might not even be out of place at 7B+",

I don't want to piss on any chips but I did think 7c+ was very generous.

36chambers · April 10, 2017, 02:00:01 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on April 10, 2017, 01:34:37 pm

Quote
Pondering the grade afterwards, I mooted, "with that new sequence that might not even be out of place at 7B+",

I don't want to piss on any chips but I did think 7c+ was very generous.

I think the FA was done with a pretty whack sequence and everyone now does it with better beta. Nonetheless, there are still plenty of people who happily take the 7C+ tick.

Will Hunt · April 10, 2017, 06:47:09 pm

Quote from: 36chambers on April 10, 2017, 02:00:01 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on April 10, 2017, 01:34:37 pm
Quote
Pondering the grade afterwards, I mooted, "with that new sequence that might not even be out of place at 7B+",

I don't want to piss on any chips but I did think 7c+ was very generous.

I think the FA was done with a pretty whack sequence and everyone now does it with better beta. Nonetheless, there are still plenty of people who happily take the 7C+ tick.

That's because people who question grades of relatively new problems are generally hounded for being "willy wavers". I think everyone knows it's 7C (could possibly go to top end 7B+ with the new beta, especially when you compare it to the likes of Crystal Method and Secret Seventh) but nobody wants to change it and, to be honest, there isn't really an "official" means of changing it.

Bradders · April 13, 2017, 07:03:05 pm

Quote from: Will Hunt on April 10, 2017, 06:47:09 pm

That's because people who question grades of relatively new problems are generally hounded for being "willy wavers". I think everyone knows it's 7C (could possibly go to top end 7B+ with the new beta, especially when you compare it to the likes of Crystal Method and Secret Seventh) but nobody wants to change it and, to be honest, there isn't really an "official" means of changing it.

I personally wouldn't disagree with 7C for HIYH, I'll freely admit to having basically been over-excited about doing it and just 'took it' without questioning whether it felt right for me. That said, I do understand it to be easier for the taller/lankier climber and therefore wouldn't take issue with people taking 7C+. If that remains as the consensus then fair enough. I think it's difficult to essentially criticise people for taking a grade which may have felt right for them.

Leading on, I think your comparison is interesting; I personally think Secret Seventh is incredibly soft and would sit right at 7A+. I did it third go and have since run several laps over a couple of sessions without falling off. However the grade consensus on UKC seems to be trending towards hard 7B+ or even 7C when in my mind there's no way SS is anywhere near as hard as HIYH. Bizarre, but that's how it is.

Crystal Method of course is brick hard and I totally fluked it.

Whatever the grade for HIYH, well done. It's one of the best problems on grit stone in my opinion.

Will Hunt · April 13, 2017, 09:58:18 pm

Quote from: Will Hunt on April 10, 2017, 06:47:09 pm

I think everyone knows it's 7C...but nobody wants to change it

Sorry, must have had trapped wind when I wrote that. Not meant as a dig at any individual, but I do still think we should be challenging grades more where they're commonly believed to be off the mark.

Fultonius · April 15, 2017, 04:31:17 pm

Woot! I've finally put my MSc to good use, thrown away the oily shackles of the hydrocarbon industry and bagged myself a job as a Renewable Energy Asset Engineer. 10 minute cycle from the flat to the office, good guys to work with from initial impressions. Chuffed and hungover

Mike Tyson · April 15, 2017, 04:34:23 pm

Sounds superb, bravo!

I managed to land myself a full time job after 5 years self employed, working with some great lads and only a 10 minute bike ride away like you (bit longer on way back mind, uphill!)

Hip hip hooray!

Fultonius · April 15, 2017, 05:05:05 pm

Awesome! It also 5 years since I was in full time employment.

Might be a bit of a shock to the system.

Nibile · April 17, 2017, 10:02:07 pm

Ahahah I don't need no stinkin' Nalle's epic video, today I've felt the strongest ever on my project, that I've been trying for more than four years now! I have spent the entire season, from October on, just on those two panels.
So so YYFY!
Today, with the original sequence:

One year ago, with an added hold for the crux swing move:

Fucking worth one year of training!

andy popp · April 18, 2017, 12:51:02 am

Borderline YYFY. Dolph just did the first repeat of an old Pex problem of mine and said it probably scrapes in at 8A. One thing's for sure, that is the only chance I'll ever have of climbing that grade. Still don't quite feel like I can take it though.

Duma · April 18, 2017, 09:05:31 am

Def counts Andy, nice one!

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

duncan · April 18, 2017, 09:43:10 am

Quote from: andy popp on April 18, 2017, 12:51:02 am

Borderline YYFY. Dolph just did the first repeat of an old Pex problem of mine and said it probably scrapes in at 8A. One thing's for sure, that is the only chance I'll ever have of climbing that grade. Still don't quite feel like I can take it though.

How long has it remained unrepeated? OF COURSE you take the 8A, as people get less and less good at Pex style climbing it can only get harder.