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YYFY!!! (Read 2102819 times)

Mike Tyson

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#6300 Re: YYFY!!!
September 07, 2016, 07:22:41 am
Yes! Now that's the shit right there! Well done  :punk:

nai

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#6301 Re: YYFY!!!
September 07, 2016, 08:23:12 am
That's a blinding effort in yesterday's humid sweaty mess.

Murph

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#6302 Re: YYFY!!!
September 07, 2016, 03:50:30 pm
Thanks chaps. Conditions didn't seem too bad - there were people climbing *much* harder stuff at the crag. But this game is all relative and it's great when the pieces fall into place!

Sasquatch

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#6303 Re: YYFY!!!
September 07, 2016, 07:36:46 pm
I've got my mojo back for climbing.   ;D ;D ;D ;D

I went for a hike yesterday with a couple of friends, not really thinking or looking at climbing to an area we had looked at many many years ago and found the single best untouched boulder I've ever seen.  Bullet granite, great features, 12-15 lines, mostly decent landings, aesthetic location, etc...  Looks like a good variety of difficulties, and moderate height to fairly highball...

Can't wait to get back out there to start cleaning and sending.  I'll post up some pics after we get some cleaning done....

Three days of cleaning/climbing on this boulder and it is Amazing!!!!  Without a doubt the single best boulder in Alaska, and I would argue that it could hold it's own for quality almost anywhere in the world.  8 Lines done, 4-5 to go. 








Nibile

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#6304 Re: YYFY!!!
September 07, 2016, 07:49:20 pm
Brilliant. I need some rock.

Muenchener

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#6305 Re: YYFY!!!
September 07, 2016, 09:00:59 pm
That does look good

fatdoc

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#6306 Re: YYFY!!!
September 08, 2016, 09:38:36 pm
ooohh.. look at me.. scared shitless I would need open shoulder surgery... seen the consultant surgeon today.. tells me probs not needed: my physio appt  for treatment is next weds. High pressure - I usually wait till now in the year  to fulfil the annual  *you can only call yrself a boulderer if u climb a new 7a every year* pre physio appt also done today.. they say.. 6 weeks and you will be rite. soooo relieved! I want my shoulder back!! :great:

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#6307 Re: YYFY!!!
September 09, 2016, 07:23:07 am
Nice one fatdoc....will see you out there :)

Elbows permitting, of course.

kelvin

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#6308 Re: YYFY!!!
September 09, 2016, 08:35:45 am


So after six months of hardly any climbing, the physio has finally got my shoulders and spine stable enough to do some hanging, Get the f**k in!

Not too sure about the strength of the steel that's hanging on but it'll do for now  :smart:
« Last Edit: September 09, 2016, 08:41:08 am by kelvin »

Murph

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#6309 Re: YYFY!!!
September 09, 2016, 11:38:22 am
I appreciate this isn't my own personal channel, but....

Biggest tick of the week for me today, longstanding nemesis got taken down.

So happy. Wanted to share the psyche. This has been my best ever week of climbing no doubt. Six 7As ticked, 5 on my new love The Lime (would have been more but for bad/incorrect descriptions in the BMC guide).

But can't let that distract from the fantastic feelings. Grit, Lime, it's all in condition guys - get yourselves stuck in


DAVETHOMAS90

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#6310 Re: YYFY!!!
September 10, 2016, 06:34:11 pm
Went for a late night run.. Just a couple of easy miles around the block.

Found £30  :dance1:



#Don't go running  :P

Oldmanmatt

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#6311 Re: YYFY!!!
September 10, 2016, 07:44:43 pm
That's mine! I recognise the face!
Honest Guv.



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.

Nibile

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#6312 Re: YYFY!!!
September 11, 2016, 04:39:50 pm
Just found out that I got paid for some climbing classes I taught... Here they come my new radiator, CNC machined top steering plate and some other tweaks!
Grinning like a mofo.

tomtom

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#6313 Re: YYFY!!!
September 11, 2016, 05:52:59 pm
I appreciate this isn't my own personal channel, but....

Biggest tick of the week for me today, longstanding nemesis got taken down.

So happy. Wanted to share the psyche. This has been my best ever week of climbing no doubt. Six 7As ticked, 5 on my new love The Lime (would have been more but for bad/incorrect descriptions in the BMC guide).

But can't let that distract from the fantastic feelings. Grit, Lime, it's all in condition guys - get yourselves stuck in


Nice one. Sidetrack is grim in summer! good effort.

Murph

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#6314 Re: YYFY!!!
September 12, 2016, 10:40:59 am
Thanks tomtom, and for the wad points chaps, to be quite honest the friction felt fine. Tricky but for me at 5'7" was realizing I couldn't do it the way I'd seen others do it - so had to do an extra LH movement before reaching the good RH hold. Am sure I will be lapping it soon, that's how it goes, right? Yesterday's project is tomorrow's warm up  :P

James Malloch

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#6315 Re: YYFY!!!
September 15, 2016, 10:38:22 pm
Morrell's Wall - after many failed tries, a change of beta (thanks Ollie) made it seem so easy...

SA Chris

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#6316 Re: YYFY!!!
September 16, 2016, 08:55:42 am
Good tick, classic problem. I think the first thing I ever saw someone at Almscliff do

James Malloch

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#6317 Re: YYFY!!!
September 16, 2016, 09:00:20 am
Good tick, classic problem. I think the first thing I ever saw someone at Almscliff do

Cheers - whilst I haven't tried it that much, it's been a proper nemesis. Felt nails compared to everything else I'd done there.
New beta was missing out the shitty crimp completely and rolling over to the better ones higher up. Not quite the proper way but it'll do.

The traverse into it is a lot easier than the problem itself too...

SA Chris

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#6318 Re: YYFY!!!
September 16, 2016, 09:02:11 am
Yeah, I either used that as briefly before going again, or skipped completely.

andy_e

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#6319 Re: YYFY!!!
September 16, 2016, 09:29:24 am
The shitty crimp was a lot better until a year or two ago...

SA Chris

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#6320 Re: YYFY!!!
September 16, 2016, 09:44:03 am
Really? Wear or snap?

tomtom

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#6321 Re: YYFY!!!
September 16, 2016, 09:45:05 am
The shitty crimp was a lot better until a year or two ago...

Really? :( secret of MW is right foot placement on the crozzly sticky out jug... there's one sweet spot where it's allllll so easy...

andy_e

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#6322 Re: YYFY!!!
September 16, 2016, 09:49:40 am
I think something broke off it, probably some shoddy footwork whilst topping out.

James Malloch

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#6323 Re: YYFY!!!
September 16, 2016, 09:55:53 am
Yes I thought it looked like something has crumbled off at some point...

SA Chris

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#6324 Re: YYFY!!!
September 16, 2016, 10:19:19 am
I think something broke off it, probably some shoddy footwork whilst topping out.

Nae floppy plopping. On wet rock after steel brushing and donkey marking.

 

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