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YYFY!!! (Read 2103044 times)

moose

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#5850 Re: YYFY!!!
January 12, 2016, 01:30:19 pm
Time to start building that buy to let empire before the tax changes come in? ;)

I never had Moose down as a money grabbing c**t?

just a c**t dull enough to have no interesting and expensive vices (except a sporadic Scotch habit and a yen for cakes from Betty's). 

Nibile

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#5851 Re: YYFY!!!
January 16, 2016, 03:07:32 pm
Sticking the crux of the project for the first time in three years. Nothing else comes close to this shit. Brilliant.



tomtom

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#5852 Re: YYFY!!!
January 16, 2016, 04:12:02 pm
Suspect there will be a few YYFY's today given the minty grit conditions today... Having only a couple of spare hours I headed to Brownstones and styled up Hank's Wall. It's been so near so many times over the last two years but went second go today \o/

Muenchener

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#5853 Re: YYFY!!!
January 16, 2016, 04:52:57 pm
Well done TT.

I remember finding Parr's quite hard enough, thank you very much, when I used to go to Brownstones long, long ago.

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#5854 Re: YYFY!!!
January 18, 2016, 01:25:38 pm
Weather on Saturday was so good. First time I've managed to get onto Dartmoor for weeks after a promising forecast ended with us getting rained off.
 
Sent Rippled Wall on first hit, and after spending some time with Mikey Cleverdon & co managed to link the first few moves of The Wave together before the 'monkey paw' hold ruined my skin. 7a outdoors has been my goal for the winter so I'm super exited to get back on it ASAP

r-man

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#5855 Re: YYFY!!!
January 18, 2016, 02:46:55 pm
Tough problem for a first 7A! Good luck!

dunnyg

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#5856 Re: YYFY!!!
January 20, 2016, 11:17:15 pm
Did steves wall and crucifix arete eliminate today, 2 ive never done at the cliff, well chuffed! Not the hardest but ive failed repeatedly over the years. Ace day out in the sun! Bumped into some strong types and got some beta for another problem on the to do list.  :dance1:

Will Hunt

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#5857 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 07:10:55 am
He's back :strongbench:

moose

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#5858 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 08:52:15 am
Did..... crucifix arete eliminate today

Good discernment! That's my favourite "advanced warmup" (the SS with no break or crack - getting the "ear" crimp with RH and a very faint pinch on the arete with LH). Always feels tough, so if I do it, I know I'm in decent nick and can move onto my projects with confidence (or at least knowing there are no excuses!). Your next task is to link in by reversing the low traverse!

dunnyg

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#5859 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 11:25:09 am
Oops. Didnt eliminate enough. Standard cliff! Did the hard bit for me anyway. It will remain on the to do list. Chuffed anyway.

moose

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#5860 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 11:39:48 am
Oops. Didnt eliminate enough. Standard cliff! Did the hard bit for me anyway. It will remain on the to do list. Chuffed anyway.

It's Almscliff: you can never start low enough, or use few enough holds!  What was the version you did? And, which problem did you get new beta for? 

I went to 'cliff last weekend, for the first time in at least a year (psyched myself out at every opportunity with thoughts of wind, mud, crowds) - really enjoyed myself repeating old favorites (including the Crucifix Arete Eliminate) - in the mood for another visit and looking for ideas for a new project to try.

andy_e

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#5861 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 11:44:10 am
Moose is back!

moose

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#5862 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 11:54:51 am
Aye... weaker and frailer than ever!

(that said, the last few times I've been bouldering with any intent (since autumn), I've surprised myself by doing stuff that thwarted me back when I bouldered a lot more - Screaming Slave, Beauty of Being Numb, Phil's Wall.... hoping for a few mild days to whittle down more of my decade-old tick-list).

dunnyg

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#5863 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 11:59:34 am
Dolphin belly slap into demon wall roof. Nothing majorly new, just had a go and it felt ok. I just eliminated the horizontal break as per the yorkahire grit guide. Should bave known there werwnt enough rules. Going to go back up now i think. Cliff psyche os back. Sat under the bulb and still found that uninspiring, so some things dont change...

moose

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#5864 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 12:16:44 pm
The bulb always felt unfeasible for me (too much leg to get my toe up on the lip).  And, I never had much joy with the problems on the DWR (aside from the basic DWR and DBS) - I can't even do the stand-alone finish of Stu's Roof - its only meant to be 7a/+ but I just can't get my RF on!

Thinking of having a session or two on the 7b/+ on the Virgin (uses the Cherry Falls crimp with LH to slap into crack) - but scared I'll knacker my foot by failing with a heel-toe locked in (as happened a few times before I did the version that just uses the crack).  That said, it'd probably be less painful than falling off Pistol Whip or Jess' Roof (which are two of the few other problems of around that grade that appeal).

dunnyg

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#5865 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 04:05:25 pm
Do it without the heal toe? It goes both ways.

tomtom

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#5866 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 04:38:28 pm
The bulb always felt unfeasible for me (too much leg to get my toe up on the lip).  And, I never had much joy with the problems on the DWR (aside from the basic DWR and DBS) - I can't even do the stand-alone finish of Stu's Roof - its only meant to be 7a/+ but I just can't get my RF on!

Thinking of having a session or two on the 7b/+ on the Virgin (uses the Cherry Falls crimp with LH to slap into crack) - but scared I'll knacker my foot by failing with a heel-toe locked in (as happened a few times before I did the version that just uses the crack).  That said, it'd probably be less painful than falling off Pistol Whip or Jess' Roof (which are two of the few other problems of around that grade that appeal).

Give me a shout if you're heading up there - I'd like to have another session on Jess'

dunnyg

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#5867 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 04:52:23 pm
Id be keen for a do up there at some point if a few are headed up

Will Hunt

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#5868 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 07:45:34 pm
Id be keen for a do up there at some point if a few are headed up
Only one do? Strong flash.

shurt

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#5869 Re: YYFY!!!
January 21, 2016, 10:34:31 pm
Had a good day at Stanage on Wednesday (great weather). Most notable things being a quick ascent of Help the Aged which I was pleased with and a flash of something called Bunny Wailer. The day was almost spoilt by losing my brand new phone (£150) which had no sim in - I'd been using it to take photos with as the camera is good - so I couldn't phone it.
The good karma that is often the climbing community meant that someone found it and got in touch with me and it's in the post. Really good news.

Wood FT

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#5870 Re: YYFY!!!
January 22, 2016, 07:55:38 am
Shurt I think I met you and your mate by crescent arete :wave: glad you found your phone. I once lost my phone at the cliff in the snow, someone posted it back saying they'd chipped it out some ice. 

SA Chris

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#5871 Re: YYFY!!!
January 22, 2016, 09:52:57 am
Had a good day at Stanage on Wednesday (great weather). Most notable things being a quick ascent of Help the Aged which I was pleased with and a flash of something called Bunny Wailer. The day was almost spoilt by losing my brand new phone (£150) which had no sim in - I'd been using it to take photos with as the camera is good - so I couldn't phone it.
The good karma that is often the climbing community meant that someone found it and got in touch with me and it's in the post. Really good news.

So the FB message was genuine? I thought it was a pisstake.

shurt

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#5872 Re: YYFY!!!
January 22, 2016, 05:09:02 pm
Had a good day at Stanage on Wednesday (great weather). Most notable things being a quick ascent of Help the Aged which I was pleased with and a flash of something called Bunny Wailer. The day was almost spoilt by losing my brand new phone (£150) which had no sim in - I'd been using it to take photos with as the camera is good - so I couldn't phone it.
The good karma that is often the climbing community meant that someone found it and got in touch with me and it's in the post. Really good news.

So the FB message was genuine? I thought it was a pisstake.

I know it was a bit crazy being contacted that way but my phone turned up today in the post. Amazing.

Shurt I think I met you and your mate by crescent arete :wave: glad you found your phone. I once lost my phone at the cliff in the snow, someone posted it back saying they'd chipped it out some ice. 

Oh right, were you climbing with the American lady and another bloke? Climbers are a good bunch generally.

Wood FT

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#5873 Re: YYFY!!!
January 22, 2016, 05:20:05 pm
Yes, I was the short pale one

Nibile

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#5874 Re: YYFY!!!
January 23, 2016, 03:56:44 pm
Mega YYFY!!!
While out with my motorbike today I found a lost sporting dog, with a few cuts and bruises probably from a wild boar (it's the hunting season).
I managed to grab her and calm her down, then phoned the number on the name tag: turns out she was a close friend of mine's dog! He came over and picked her up! She was so happy!
Success!
Rode home with a huge grin. Good day.
5 by Nibile, on Flickr

 

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