YYFY!!! (Read 2102865 times)

Eddies · August 07, 2015, 12:12:04 pm

This week I've had the most productive week of my fairly short and pretty pathetic sport climbing career...

After 2 hours working the moves a couple of weeks ago this Tuesday I climbed 'Beginners Wall' 7b+ then immediately moved to the neighbouring route 'Lets Get Fossilised' 7c+ and spend the remainder of the evening working out a sequence. On Thursday I returned and stuck the crux, carried on to clip the dodgy clip and gibbered my way through unfamiliar ground to the top.

Go me

a dense loner · August 07, 2015, 03:57:57 pm

Nice one eddies!

Sasquatch · August 07, 2015, 04:59:43 pm

YYFY - I found a new hard sport project!!!

85 feet, just a hair less than vertical, extremely technical face climbing. Did all but 5 moves yesterday-1 hand move and 4 foot moves. 48 hand moves and 54 foot moves total... Also perfect training route for my long term goal of To Bolt Or Not To Be.

DAVETHOMAS90 · August 07, 2015, 05:50:50 pm

Quote from: Sasquatch on August 07, 2015, 04:59:43 pm

YYFY - I found a new hard sport project!!!

85 feet, just a hair less than vertical, extremely technical face climbing. Did all but 5 moves yesterday-1 hand move and 4 foot moves. 48 hand moves and 54 foot moves total... Also perfect training route for my long term goal of To Bolt Or Not To Be.

That sounds like a nightmare! Did you ever hear of Craig Smith and the anti-slab brigade back in the eighties?

Sasquatch · August 07, 2015, 06:24:41 pm

No, I hadn't. I'll have to go digging.

It is really immaculate technical thin face climbing on glacial polished sedimentary rock with almost every face move imaginable, thumbercling's, a mono crimp (intermediate thankfully), and a dyno to cap it off.

andy popp · August 07, 2015, 07:37:47 pm

Sounds great!

DAVETHOMAS90 · August 07, 2015, 07:54:12 pm

Quote from: andy popp on August 07, 2015, 07:37:47 pm

Sounds great!

My own horror at the potential for such technicality to expose my own fickle form aside, it does sound beautiful!

Now then, pray tell? Interesting to hear it will be a sport route though.

Sasquatch · August 07, 2015, 08:09:20 pm

It's actually an old line originally bolted in 1994, which has sat out there for a long time. It was reported as a 12b, and is nowhere resembling that grade. I'd been informed by a couple of very solid climbers that they didn't think it goes.

It's about 12b/c-ish to the 3rd bolt and a pretty good rest, then you get 4 back to back cruxes that are about v7, v9, v7, and v9 with just enough of a stance to clip and chalk at the end of each sequence, then about 15 feet of 5.11- glory climbing to the anchors.

http://mountainproject.com/v/spotted-dick/109126517

I'll post some pics as soon as I get a chance to get and download some.

I've also been informed that there's a project t the right of it and all of the moves go, but it hasn't been done yet. Next time I'll get on that as well.

haydn jones · August 08, 2015, 12:54:56 am

My mental math adds that to about 9a... inless you litrally get a hands off inbetween them boulders

Sasquatch · August 08, 2015, 07:58:55 pm

Yeah, it's the hardest route i've been on. Not sure how ard though.

I'm hopeful that the cruxes will get easier as I refine the perfect beta. Right now, I can see being able to two hang it in the next 2-3 days on it, but knocking it down to one hang will be a serious step up, and then knocking out the one hang will be really hard.

JackAus · August 09, 2015, 10:27:42 am

Actual first V8 today.

kelvin · August 09, 2015, 11:42:12 am

Nice one Jack!

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Fiend · August 09, 2015, 12:28:51 pm

The Alaskan Meltdown!

fatneck · August 10, 2015, 11:26:19 am

Got a new job! Same organisation but position funded till Dec 2017 which is a long term post in youth work circles...

andy popp · August 10, 2015, 11:27:28 am

Fantastic news Simon; well-done!

Nibile · August 10, 2015, 11:59:49 am

Sasquatch · August 10, 2015, 10:49:20 pm

Quote from: Fiend on August 09, 2015, 12:28:51 pm

The Alaskan Meltdown!

I can only hope

Nibile · August 11, 2015, 12:07:27 am

Quote from: Nibile on August 10, 2015, 11:59:49 am

Jesus fucking christ! The emoticon didn't work! I had the thumbs up one in the preview! I didn't even know this one existed!

fatneck · August 11, 2015, 08:17:09 am

Ha! I did wonder what you were trying to convey Lore...

tomtom · August 11, 2015, 08:18:49 am

Quote from: fatneck on August 11, 2015, 08:17:09 am

Ha! I did wonder what you were trying to convey Lore...

:3thumbsup: :3thumbsup: :3thumbsup:

Nibile · August 11, 2015, 09:37:39 am

Great news Simon!

spid3rz · August 11, 2015, 09:31:15 pm

Just had my second session on limestone and actually managed to get up some stuff!!! :D

tregiffian · August 11, 2015, 09:48:20 pm

Those there at the time will be glad to know that Nancy Jones who was airlifted off Pabbay was back on the sharp end today albeit on Cornwall`s friendliest little cliff with her Dad and a yet more elderly chum.

cha1n · August 12, 2015, 09:52:24 am

A non-bouldering YYFY but the project 8a before 30 is done (ukb powerclub and cornice regulars will be aware)!

Clipped the chains of PowerPlant last night - what an epic siege it turned out to be! 11 sessions, climbed on the 11th of Aug...

Such a bad idea to pick a power endurance route after 2 years off of routes, with a level of power endurance that I think Tom Randall put as "low, even for a boulderer".

Got pretty emotional at times as in the back of my mind thought it was a pretty easy goal to achieve as I was knocking out 7c+'s a few years ago but in the end, thought I was going to fail (30 on Sunday)! I even considered pre-clipping the second bolt - the shame!

Thanks to the belayers (there were like 8 different ones) and sorry to all the people who came to try PP and decided to sack it off because "that weak southerner is on it again".

Wood FT · August 12, 2015, 10:07:22 am

well done, you climbed it really well.