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YYFY!!! (Read 2102773 times)

tomtom

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#5175 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2015, 09:50:58 am

non-climbing YYFY

hotpants are back in fashion

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your new summer outfit.


Muenchener

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#5176 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2015, 02:11:31 pm
hotpants are back in fashion

A few years back the female yoof at the Oktoberfest was sporting short, tight lederhosen. It was a black day when that fad ended.

Denbob99

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#5177 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2015, 05:03:33 pm
Got the cave problem at Robin Hoods 3rd go today, having tried it way too many times last year. Then went and flashed Razor Roof for my 2nd 6c flash. YYFY. A nice haul after a wet week in Font!

danm

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#5178 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2015, 06:42:45 pm
Got the cave problem at Robin Hoods 3rd go today, having tried it way too many times last year. Then went and flashed Razor Roof for my 2nd 6c flash. YYFY. A nice haul after a wet week in Font!

Nice one, two of my favourite problems those :-)

Denbob99

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#5179 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2015, 09:00:19 pm
Got the cave problem at Robin Hoods 3rd go today, having tried it way too many times last year. Then went and flashed Razor Roof for my 2nd 6c flash. YYFY. A nice haul after a wet week in Font!

Nice one, two of my favourite problems those :-)

Easy to see why, anything else at RHS or Cratcliffe you'd recommend?

mrjonathanr

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#5180 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2015, 10:53:33 pm
Jerry's Arete

TheTwig

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#5181 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2015, 12:22:29 am
Not bouldering but after 1.5 seasons of Rock Prodigy esque training and making major progress on dealing with my tennis elbow(s) I had a very productive 6 day trip to the Wye Valley.

Previous bests were sport 6b+, and trad E1 5b (with 2 E1 5c's on slate that completely suited my style, e.g indoor climbing)

So I hit my goal and did an E2 5b at Shorn Cliff, 1 at Wintours Leap and then a E2 5c and 2 E2 5b's at Symonds Yat (none of which were particularly soft for the grade), as well as polishing off E1's like they were going out of style. Happy doesn't even cover it!

Also made a visit to Wynd Cliff which is about as opposite to my style as possible, and did a 6b+ in two tries which blows my previous sport climbing out of the water (my other stuff was on slate).

In summary: there's a lot to be said for a proper training program and dealing with injuries  :great:

Pako

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#5182 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2015, 02:54:09 am
Went outdoors for the first time in ages, got so close to this v7 one move wonder. Next session it will go down. Nice to see the board is paying off. Funny to think I will have gone from v3 to v7 after a couple months training on a 50.

a dense loner

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#5183 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2015, 07:48:20 am
I don't mean to piss on your chips but nearly doing a one move wonder isn't doing it, and doing a one move wonder v7 isn't going from being a v3 climber to a v7 climber. For instance I could do all the "dyno probs" at stoney, anything from 6c to 7b, way before I could do any of the "proper" probs.

a dense loner

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#5184 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2015, 07:49:51 am
However nice one on using a 50 regularly, this will get you stronger and get you up "proper" probs  ;)

cha1n

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#5185 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2015, 12:28:20 pm
Impressive that a V3 climber can train on a 50 degree board.I regularly flash V7's and can get nowhere on a board. I would have thought a V3 climber's time would be better spent bouldering on a bigger variety of problems/angles but I guess it depends on your background. Maybe you climb 8a sport and don't really boulder or something...

moose

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#5186 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2015, 01:39:05 pm
Impressive that a V3 climber can train on a 50 degree board.I regularly flash V7's and can get nowhere on a board. I would have thought a V3 climber's time would be better spent bouldering on a bigger variety of problems/angles but I guess it depends on your background. Maybe you climb 8a sport and don't really boulder or something...

check-out his Power Club entry - he's training for 1-armers and can do them with 2kg assistance) - you might argue he's underachieving?

mr chaz

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#5187 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2015, 04:35:22 pm
Underachieving... now there's something I excel in

danm

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#5188 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2015, 05:28:16 pm
Got the cave problem at Robin Hoods 3rd go today, having tried it way too many times last year. Then went and flashed Razor Roof for my 2nd 6c flash. YYFY. A nice haul after a wet week in Font!

Nice one, two of my favourite problems those :-)

Easy to see why, anything else at RHS or Cratcliffe you'd recommend?

Not done much else there tbh, sorry!

Johnny Brown

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#5189 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2015, 06:01:23 pm
Impressive that a V3 climber can train on a 50 degree board.I regularly flash V7's and can get nowhere on a board.

Ha. I once tried to get up the beastmaker board in the works. I couldn't, even standing in the handholds, much to the amusement of the regulars.

joeisidle

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#5190 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2015, 06:28:37 pm
Got the cave problem at Robin Hoods 3rd go today, having tried it way too many times last year. Then went and flashed Razor Roof for my 2nd 6c flash. YYFY. A nice haul after a wet week in Font!

Nice one, two of my favourite problems those :-)

Easy to see why, anything else at RHS or Cratcliffe you'd recommend?

If you've got a few pads and fancy a change from the steep stuff, Dry Wit in a Wet Country has to be on the list; balancy moves, great highball line and very amenable for 7a

the_dom

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#5191 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2015, 08:46:01 pm
Got the cave problem at Robin Hoods 3rd go today, having tried it way too many times last year. Then went and flashed Razor Roof for my 2nd 6c flash. YYFY. A nice haul after a wet week in Font!

Nice one, two of my favourite problems those :-)

Easy to see why, anything else at RHS or Cratcliffe you'd recommend?

Jerry's Traverse at Cratcliffe is piss for 7B if you can campus (and really, really awesome)..

Pako

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#5192 Re: YYFY!!!
April 14, 2015, 01:25:29 am
I don't mean to piss on your chips but nearly doing a one move wonder isn't doing it, and doing a one move wonder v7 isn't going from being a v3 climber to a v7 climber. For instance I could do all the "dyno probs" at stoney, anything from 6c to 7b, way before I could do any of the "proper" probs.
True, it was more just the feeling of doing well outdoors.

Pako

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#5193 Re: YYFY!!!
April 14, 2015, 01:31:59 am
Impressive that a V3 climber can train on a 50 degree board.I regularly flash V7's and can get nowhere on a board. I would have thought a V3 climber's time would be better spent bouldering on a bigger variety of problems/angles but I guess it depends on your background. Maybe you climb 8a sport and don't really boulder or something...
Eh, I just enjoy climbing on steep walls. There are no gyms or bouldering within 90 minutes of me, so I decided I wanted a board to get strong. Best way to get strong is get a 50. Getting a less steep board and growing out of it when you get too strong doesn't sound too good.

Zods Beard

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#5194 Re: YYFY!!!
April 14, 2015, 09:00:47 am
I went climbing yesterday and didn't end the day feeling jaded and frustrated with climbing. I worked my way along the crag, confidence building till I was topping out highballish problems without the usual feelings of terror. My tips were sore and I even got an ankle scrape that stung in the shower. All the things they don't teach you at the wall.

Holmfirth Edge you may be a scruffy place but you warmed the soul of this misery. Silent Running is ace BTW..

I have not been training on a 50 degree board.

Grubes

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#5195 Re: YYFY!!!
April 14, 2015, 09:12:03 am
Glad you liked silent running such a nice problem. That rock over to the hidden crimp is a lovely move.

What else did you get done?

a dense loner

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#5196 Re: YYFY!!!
April 14, 2015, 09:12:23 am
That will be your undoing Zod, no wonder you got imprisoned in a wall of glass ;D

Pako

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#5197 Re: YYFY!!!
April 15, 2015, 10:36:27 am
Did old mate one move undercling wonder and even got all but one of the moves on a proper climb with a whole 5 moves! Gaskins watch out

a dense loner

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#5198 Re: YYFY!!!
April 15, 2015, 11:56:59 am
Nice one :weakbench:

Jaspersharpe

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#5199 Re: YYFY!!!
April 15, 2015, 12:36:22 pm
Did old mate one move undercling wonder and even got all but one of the moves on a proper climb with a whole 5 moves! Gaskins watch out

Did anyone see you?

 

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