[Will Hunt]

Classic after classic after classic today.

Licence to Thrill (classic Barley - The Great Man)
Boris Or Bust
Cowboy Daze
Fluide
Crimpy Roof

3 stars all round 

[Baldy]

Firt proper grit day of the (almost) season yesterday and I finally did Gorilla Warfare.

I've spent several sessions on that in varying states of disrepair (fingers, legs etc) and it turns out that if you keep your feet out left the whole time, instead of trying to use the crap smears that other people told me to use then it's actually pretty easy... go figure.

Followed it up with Early Doors and Bad Lip before putting in some good distance on Late Junction.

Huff's next?

Good fun day out, not quite cold enough for the grit to be prime, but its definitely getting there 

[a dense loner]

Did you get the bad beta off peeps that did it years ago tho? I've always used the smears cos that's how you were told to do it. How did you do early doors? Did you go low and match? Early doors was always go from the crimp and sloper to half way up the shelf with your rh then lh to top. I nearly choked the first time I saw someone match on it.

[Baldy]

I went across to the two crimps as per gorilla warfare, then straight up right hand to hang the sloper, cut loose and right foot high, then left hand high gaston, and rock it out.

I can do all the moves using the smears, but inevitably I will dab on the rock when I start from the beginning.
Fair enough if that's how the FA/oldies do it, but its just seems a bit  doing it that way...nice problem without

[a dense loner]

I was just pointing out that's how it used to be done  my early doors beta was actually jihad, you're quite right you go out to the 2 crimps for early doors, this is where people go up right and match and then come back leftwards. Savages

[Johnny Brown]

I can't say I've ever been aware of rules for these, I just thought you had shit footwork Dense.

[tomtom]

I can't say I've ever been aware of rules for these, I just thought you had shit footwork Dense.

:D werent the nubbin smear things on the face larger at one point? At least thats what Lagers told me - and that could have been part of an elaborate web of excuse weaving in his part...

[Sloper]

I was just pointing out that's how it used to be done  my early doors beta was actually jihad, you're quite right you go out to the 2 crimps for early doors, this is where people go up right and match and then come back leftwards. Savages

FFS, you'd better not see me doing it with a heel hook.

[tomtom]

I was just pointing out that's how it used to be done  my early doors beta was actually jihad, you're quite right you go out to the 2 crimps for early doors, this is where people go up right and match and then come back leftwards. Savages

FFS, you'd better not see me doing it with a heel hook.

You'd run a risk of splitting the red trousers

[a dense loner]

I can't say I've ever been aware of rules for these, I just thought you had shit footwork Dense.

For my first lot of years climbing that's what I was always told by the local people, same with no heels on green traverse, same with no thumb in the pocket on one of minus ten probs etc etc. I dare say you didn't listen when there was good sport to be had on the 2 25 ft aretes directly behind

[Sloper]

I was just pointing out that's how it used to be done  my early doors beta was actually jihad, you're quite right you go out to the 2 crimps for early doors, this is where people go up right and match and then come back leftwards. Savages

FFS, you'd better not see me doing it with a heel hook.

You'd run a risk of splitting the red trousers

Usually mustard cords old boy, although sic transit, I don't think I would be able to warm up on Early Doors these days.

[Baldy]

Same with no heels on green traverse

To be fair, this is the only correct way of doing green traverse...

[Fiend]

Fucking hell, I'm going to go back and do Green Traverse WITH heels 

[Wood FT]

Fucking hell, I'm going to go back and do Green Traverse WITH heels 

plural? two heels all the way is tricky 7B

[Footwork]

Just been offered a job this morning in Leeds  Perfect timing for the winter grit season

[Wood FT]

nice one!

[Muenchener]

Redpoint Day.

You didn't get to bed as early as you intended, yet somehow the night was still long enough for the week's carefully built up psyche and self confidence to evaporate. Breakfast sits like cement in your stomach. Your mate always insists on having the heat on full in the car in the morning, so you arrive at the crag already dehydrated. Unlike your chalkbag, which you foolishly left in the rucksack all week and now your chalk is damp. As are the warm ups, which feel hard and scary.

But then you get on the route, find a better foot position for the move before the last bolt that spat you off last week, and fall off after the last bolt instead. Progress. Then your mate finds a better sequence for the finish, using holds that were wet last week but are dry now, and you try with the new sequence, and voila. Your first 7a in the bag.

Also, I note smugly that the route was originally graded 7a+. Consensus now is definitely 7a, plus the first crux is reachy and, being fairly tall with long arms, I can lank past it. So I'm not making any overambitious claims about the difficulty, except that I'm glad that my first 7a probably isn't right at the bottom of the grade.

tl;dr: I redpointed my first 7a today yyfy.

 

[Duma]

Nice one muenchener, milestone grade!

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Been trying to nail this one for a while now, so chuffed! Hard 7A+ a bit conditions dependent.

YYFY 

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Sorry to just drop in there, and to avoid ambiguity, I was celebrating my latte art, which I was stoked about. Pretty cool, I think    7A+ in my kitchen.

[joel182]

tl;dr: I redpointed my first 7a today yyfy.

 

Nice one! Really well deserved - you seemed to be really dedicated toachieving this, so it's great to see it happen.

[Jaspersharpe]

Hurrah! Big milestone achieved.

And well done Dave for the coffee, although lattes are shit as you shouldn't put milk in coffee.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Thanks Jas 

and super well done Muncher on the 7a tick. Really liked the post 

Dave.

[Sasquatch]

tl;dr: I redpointed my first 7a today yyfy.

 

CONGRATS!!! 

[lagerstarfish]

well done Dave

 

how many hours training did it take to get that?