[duncan]

Nose-in-a-Day! 21st June, 30 years to the day since the last time. A lot slower - 23 hours - but just as fun. 

[Wood FT]

 

[a dense loner]

Get in 

[Fiend]

Unless you're talking about the Burbage West mini-classic, that is well  ....and congrats 

[iain]

Fantastic 

[andy popp]

Nose-in-a-Day! 21st June, 30 years to the day since the last time. A lot slower - 23 hours - but just as fun.

FFS Mr Modesty ...

Yes, this seems pretty immense.

And in my idiocy I hadn't realised which Duncan Duncan is!

[ben]

super impressive   all round

[Paul B]

Nose-in-a-Day! 21st June, 30 years to the day since the last time. A lot slower - 23 hours - but just as fun.

Amazing!

[SA Chris]

Unbelievable. Good work.

[Stubbs]

Awesome!

[duncan]

Thanks for your kind comments.

Doing the NIAD again had been a vague idea from at least 4 years ago and a 30th anniversary ascent with The Rope Gun had a lot of discussion on our wet trip to Switzerland two years ago. Most of my training in the last 9 months - all those step-ups and the 30 pitch sessions on the auto belay - has been with this in mind. It's deeply satisfying when any long term project with a lot of investment like this one works out.

The actual ascent went fairly smoothly, I was always convinced we would get up the route, the question was how long it would take. Our times on a couple of warm ups predicted a 30 hour sufferfest which was a bit dispiriting (thanks to IO2 for a well-delivered MTFU). Short-fixing everything made a big difference. We started at 3am, climbed steadily, did pretty well up to Camp 6, on schedule for an 18-20 hour ascent which was my target. The climbing steepens up there, it got dark, we got tired, two of our three 1" cams got stuck. We stopped short-fixing as it is quite isolating and we slowed considerably, topping out at about 2am.

We both felt OK on the summit and wanted to descend but once the caffeine and adrenaline wore off the decision-making got a bit iffy and I started getting visual hallucinations so we just lay down in the dirt in the Manzanita and fell asleep immediately. We woke with the dawn feeling much better and I'm sure we did the right thing. 

A NIAD is not quite routine amongst US climbers but is quite common now. Improvements in gear - especially head torches, wider knowledge of short-fixing, and breaking psychological barriers have made it a viable choice for decent but not exceptional climbers. It deserves to be more popular with Brits. I'll write down a few ideas if anyone is interested.

[cha1n]

Just got a job in Sheffield! (relocating from Bristol)

Can't wait to live near some actual bouldering!!!!

[slackline]

   congratulations cha1n

[Robsons]

The kids I coach smashed it up at the Youth Climbing Series British finals!
All top 10, two 2nds and 2 thirds.
Plus took one of the older ones on the rock the following day to Carrock Fell and he tore it up again - ticking two V5s, a V7, flashing a V8 and getting another within 20 minutes! 5th time on rock ever! YYFY
http://robinolearycoaching.com/?p=398

[Baldy]

I'm really very excited.

I just got a job at the Depot in Nottingham.
I'll be working there part time to cover my studies.

This means that for the first time in my life I am going to be:

• a) Living with my girlfriend.
• b) Living north of the M4
• c) Within walking distance of a climbing wall.
• d) Within an afternoon jaunt of the peak district.
• e) Moving out of a tedious job with no future, and attempting something new.

After what has been a pretty shitty year and a half, things are finally starting to look up.
 
If that wasn't enough - I'm also (almost) injury free, which means I can get back to training in time for winter. YYFY!

Unfortunately, an annoying side effect of moving 168 miles further north, is that I wont know anyone in town.
So if any of you fancies saying "Hi", then it would be great to meet you.

[tomtom]

excellent news all round!

[andyd]

good on you mate. North of the M4 for a climbe is a

[Grubes]

congrats baldy

[cheque]

So if any of you fancies saying "Hi", then it would be great to meet you.

 

No plans to climb indoors for a while but hit me up on here man. 

[Nibile]

Back on rock after three months, and on a rope! What do we do for some rock...
Very happy, did a route with some heel hooks and the broken knee didn't suffer much, probably because of the three rounds of tape that basically hindered any flexion to more than 90°...
Climbed a direct (sit  ) start to that route then, 6 new cool moves, above the head heel hooks and pocket pulling!
Got back home, put my sauna jacket and the weightvest on and did some HIIT!!!

There must have been something in the air!

[JackAus]

7A plateau of 1 year, 8 months and 28 days finally came to an end today...


Did my first V7... Well pleased.

[CBA]

After a multi-session two year plus siege,finally put my Almscliff nemesis,Underhand Extension,to bed this afternoon. psyched doesn't even cover it. This after another 7C at Pantymwyn yesterday,too. The hours on the 50 degree board,rings,deadhangs are finally paying off. Sunday night drinks definitely deserved...a big fat YYFY for sure!! 

[Gallant]

Having basically never projected anything properly, and having ticked one (soft, probably) 7b in the county (and jericho road which is also only 7a+, no?), yesterday I managed Hannibal at Tom's. It's not a massive tick or anything, I know, but my first 7c nonetheless. It was a pretty YYFY moment, especially having power out of the finishing campus about 10 minutes earlier, with a sense of dread that maybe I wasn't actually fit enough to pull it off. (Cheekily whanged a heel on, which I still feel guilty about)

[a dense loner]

Wangling a heel on is the way fwd for that move. Campus it after you've done it!

Which you have obviously, I meant campus it now you've got the tick in the bag

[Oldmanmatt]

We held a charity climb today at the bunker, aiming to traverse the equivalent distance as Berry Head to Long Quarry point (Anstey's cove) or 12 miles or 522 complete traverses of our main bouldering room.

As a team, not individually.

Most people stopped somewhere between 10 and 30 circuits.

Two of our youth squad, Kiera and Stacy (my eldest daughter) did more than 60 circuits each!

Stacy has just completed 94 laps, almost 3 miles!

Almost 4 times further than the best adult male!


Stacy is 8 years old.