YYFY!!! (Read 2102897 times)

andyd · November 20, 2013, 04:23:23 pm

Quote from: Duma on November 17, 2013, 05:50:45 pm

Did Toltec Twostep today, been on the list a very long time. Felt worth E5 on my own with two pads, but would be superb highball 7A or so with a big group

good job. awesome route. I keep pulling on for the solo and bottling it.I remember how much the top holdd needed cleaning before doing it 10or so years ago. did you roll onto your knee in the break?

Duma · November 20, 2013, 08:17:44 pm

No knees man, what do you take me for!? The LH crappy sidepull/undercut was feeling pretty good so had that, RF on edge of break, then stretch up to flake, match feet, RF to decent foothold out R, match hands, crossover to top of flake, match (this is the higest point I reversed from), smear LF up, LH to little crimp straight above, RF up to decent crystal, RH to good crimp, then to jugs on SF. Not sure what top hold you're referring to, but not sure I did the normal finish...

shurt · November 20, 2013, 08:42:47 pm

i know you were banding 7a or 7a+around for this as a highball. i appreciate its higher than a lot of other probs on the moor but how does it compare difficultywise with similar graded stuff e.g. the wave or the saddle tor routes? oh and where's the hard move?!

Duma · November 20, 2013, 08:48:38 pm

Never 7A+. without the first 3m I think it'd feel about 6C, but the spice makes it feel a fair bit harder. Crux is supposedly the move out of the first big break, which is fairly safe, but in good conditions it felt fairly sustained to me from the break to the join with SF (though as I said, I didn't move right to the groove but finished straight up)

andyd · November 21, 2013, 05:41:50 pm

Quote from: Duma on November 20, 2013, 08:17:44 pm

No knees man, what do you take me for!? The LH crappy sidepull/undercut was feeling pretty good so had that, RF on edge of break, then stretch up to flake, match feet, RF to decent foothold out R, match hands, crossover to top of flake, match (this is the higest point I reversed from), smear LF up, LH to little crimp straight above, RF up to decent crystal, RH to good crimp, then to jugs on SF. Not sure what top hold you're referring to, but not sure I did the normal finish...

It was a typo. Should have read holds (all of them)!

I used to throw a right leg deep into the crack and roll up onto a knee to reach up with my right, allowing me to udge off the best bit of the undercut.

FWIW this will never be a highball in my opinion so boulderers shouldn't get their hopes up. Maybe with 10 pads to level out the slope it'd be OK. It's E5 6b and the 'heady' crux is high up. It's a class route. Duma did good

shurt · November 21, 2013, 05:56:29 pm

Quote from: andyd on November 21, 2013, 05:41:50 pm

Quote from: Duma on November 20, 2013, 08:17:44 pm
No knees man, what do you take me for!? The LH crappy sidepull/undercut was feeling pretty good so had that, RF on edge of break, then stretch up to flake, match feet, RF to decent foothold out R, match hands, crossover to top of flake, match (this is the higest point I reversed from), smear LF up, LH to little crimp straight above, RF up to decent crystal, RH to good crimp, then to jugs on SF. Not sure what top hold you're referring to, but not sure I did the normal finish...

It was a typo. Should have read holds (all of them)!

I used to throw a right leg deep into the crack and roll up onto a knee to reach up with my right, allowing me to udge off the best bit of the undercut.

FWIW this will never be a highball in my opinion so boulderers shouldn't get their hopes up. Maybe with 10 pads to level out the slope it'd be OK. It's E5 6b and the 'heady' crux is high up. It's a class route. Duma did good

Just to confirm my hopes are not up and I'm not a fully fledged boulderer!
I agree that's its a great effort and having stood underneath it, its not really a boulder prob either. I'd be taking the E5 tick for sure.

Wood FT · November 21, 2013, 08:18:20 pm

Quote from: Fiend on November 20, 2013, 11:28:09 am

Had a pleasant day at Back Bowden the other day - frozen in the shade, warm in the sun - and did On The Verge (inspired me for about 10 years, very easy and pleasant) and The Tube (inspired me for about 10 days, full on and great value) in an afternoon, which was nice.

Got plenty of winter syke for sandstone and gritstone now

that's sounds like a great day Fiend

Jim · November 22, 2013, 10:47:52 am

Climbed in the 7th grade outside for I think the first time since snapping my bicep tendon back in February 2011. still a lot of work to do but it's a start

GCW · November 22, 2013, 11:25:43 am

Nice one Big Man.

Fiend · November 22, 2013, 11:46:59 am

V7? F7a? Good effort.

kingholmesy · November 22, 2013, 02:10:44 pm

Quote from: Jim on November 22, 2013, 10:47:52 am

Climbed in the 7th grade outside for I think the first time since snapping my bicep tendon back in February 2011.

Nice one Jim, stoked for you. Hope you had a good time when you where down in Cornwall BTW - let me know if you're in my next of the woods again.

Jaspersharpe · November 22, 2013, 03:09:12 pm

Quote from: Jim on November 22, 2013, 10:47:52 am

Climbed in the 7th grade outside for I think the first time since snapping my bicep tendon back in February 2011. still a lot of work to do but it's a start

Nice one Jim!

tomtom · November 22, 2013, 04:50:19 pm

Great Jim. Back in the game

Doylo · November 22, 2013, 04:54:07 pm

Welcome back Pregnant Horse

Blunk · November 22, 2013, 05:20:45 pm

Quote from: Jim on November 22, 2013, 10:47:52 am

Climbed in the 7th grade outside for I think the first time since snapping my bicep tendon back in February 2011. still a lot of work to do but it's a start

Well done Jim! I'm recovering from a 2012 elbow surgery and like you just recently managed 7a again. Appalling how long it takes isn't it?

nai · November 22, 2013, 05:22:50 pm

both well worthy of a YYFY, effort guys.

tomtom · November 22, 2013, 05:45:10 pm

Yes - good news Blunk!

Jim · November 22, 2013, 06:35:34 pm

Thanks guy's. Would of probably been a bit quicker getting back into it but I had pneumonia last year

Doylo · November 22, 2013, 09:11:17 pm

Bloody hell haven't you got a better excuse than that

fatdoc · November 22, 2013, 09:40:48 pm

Effort Jim.

Nibile · November 23, 2013, 09:01:42 am

Glad for you both big guys!

Grubes · November 23, 2013, 04:57:02 pm

I finally got my fat arse to the top of flying arête. I can finally get stuck into a proper project now that needs a real siege

andyd · November 23, 2013, 10:02:30 pm

Quote from: Grubes on November 23, 2013, 04:57:02 pm

I finally got my fat arse to the top of flying arête. I can finally get stuck into a proper project now that needs a real siege

Hooray!!!!!!

On a ME note...
I did Great Flake at Caley ground up with pads today. The crux is at least one and a half elephants high (I counted as I fell!)

moose · November 24, 2013, 09:01:03 am

Quote from: Grubes on November 23, 2013, 04:57:02 pm

I finally got my fat arse to the top of flying arête. I can finally get stuck into a proper project now that needs a real siege

You're well capable of something significantly harder. It was obviously just bad mojo that had been holding you back - all you needed was a passing idiot wittering away about his cold fingers to distract you from your own bad vibes! One thing though, a proper siege would probably involve bloodied fingers - it would be a shame to ruin those natty down mitts - I think you should give them to me for safe keeping

Muenchener · November 24, 2013, 10:06:56 am

Quote from: andyd on November 23, 2013, 10:02:30 pm

I did Great Flake at Caley ground up with pads today. The crux is at least one and a half elephants high (I counted as I fell!)

And I am an old never-was. I remember going circuit training with Craig at Manchester Poly just after he did the FA. I was fit in those days, but somehow confused getting fit with getting better at climbing - that part never happened (yet)

Well done.