[Dolly]

Well done captain.
Good connies today I would imagine.


What next ?

[andy popp]

Nice one Shark.

[andy_e]

Good one!

[cheque]

 

[shark]

Well done captain.
Good connies today I would imagine.


What next ?

Connietastic here

Ethan and Sam hv done Fat Slapper (without slapping )


Trying the Reverse now

[slackline]

Congrats on ticking that shark 

[Fiend]

About bloody time, IO1, the forum is in safe hands again

Dr T we need names, stars, descriptions and how awesome the problems were...

[205Chris]

ET sent home

I don't believe for a minute you lost your passport 

[tomtom]

ET sent home

I don't believe for a minute you lost your passport 

:D

Good effort Shark - great to see it fall.

A mini YYFY for me today, as I finally sent Beachball - my slopey nemesis.. She put up a fight but succumbed to some slapping and only one knee was required


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Dr T]

nice one! what were they?

Sauvito and mp3 were the flashes
Asylum Sika and Monochrome were the other two
Thought I did Asylum Sika a in a rather uncultured and thuggish fashion after giving up on Bonjoy's elegant twisty beta - one of the disadvantages of having had a disc remove is I can no longer "twist like we did last (actually quite a few) summer(s ago)"

Also flashed Bonjoy's new 7a+ at Birchen (Iron eyes) which I am now informed is also 7b the way I did it 
So make that my 3rd 7b flash!

[Jaspersharpe]

Great stuff Dr T.

[SA Chris]

Did it make your day?

[Dr T]

Did it make your day?

If this ques was aimed at moi then aye, it did thanks - actually since it's half term it made my week...
Roll on Easter and Font

[Bonjoy]

nice one! what were they?

Sauvito and mp3 were the flashes
Asylum Sika and Monochrome were the other two
Thought I did Asylum Sika a in a rather uncultured and thuggish fashion after giving up on Bonjoy's elegant twisty beta - one of the disadvantages of having had a disc remove is I can no longer "twist like we did last (actually quite a few) summer(s ago)"

Also flashed Bonjoy's new 7a+ at Birchen (Iron eyes) which I am now informed is also 7b the way I did it 
So make that my 3rd 7b flash!

Good work! Out of interest, what was your beta on Asylum Sika? Still worth 7b? The start hold is marginally better since I glued it (more positive as glue level lower than before) but I don’t think this would affect things much.
What did you think of Iron Eyes? I thought the new beta added some difficulty but wasn’t sure if it pushed it from 7a+ to 7b or not. Like you I did MP3 the same day, which I thought was a fair bit easier (but I did climb this quite different to vids I've seen of other folk on it), hence going for 7b. 

[SA Chris]

Did it make your day?

If this ques was aimed at moi then aye, it did thanks - actually since it's half term it made my week...
Roll on Easter and Font

It was intended as a crap "eatswood" related joke, but stoked you had an incandescent session too.

[Dr T]

Good work! Out of interest, what was your beta on Asylum Sika? Still worth 7b? The start hold is marginally better since I glued it (more positive as glue level lower than before) but I don’t think this would affect things much.
What did you think of Iron Eyes? I thought the new beta added some difficulty but wasn’t sure if it pushed it from 7a+ to 7b or not. Like you I did MP3 the same day, which I thought was a fair bit easier (but I did climb this quite different to vids I've seen of other folk on it), hence going for 7b. 

Cheers Bonjoy

Asylum Sika - Had played on it before and didn't notice a discernible difference to the start hold or at least how it affected the climb. I had tried your method before - though I was just too tired on that session so went back to go again - alas (as it looks such a cool move) whilst I could get the left hand over and to the hold I could twist my way through to get the body underneath it. Instead I started cross handed, fired the right  hand up to the hold (feet essentially pasted on nothing - ended up pretty much a campus move), put the left foot on the smear out left and toe hooked like hell round the base of the arete, brought the left hand to the poorer hold just under the right hand, the fired the right to the lip etc.. to be honest felt more like 7b+ but I readily accept it was bad beta (I've grown to live with having to do the odd problem a harder way, or indeed not do it, since my back op)

Iron eyes - great problem - pulled on with my feet on the block and the put them up so not quite as described but a little different from the first inscription. Flashed it do probably did use the best beta, certainly the foot placements were different to yours (no drop knee) but the end but I do remember doing with a really cool left heel hook/jam in the big pocket that is the first hand hold you go for after pulling on - as for the grade, difficult as it was a flash but will take either tricky 7a+ or 7b but then again I might not have used the bast beta.

Compared to mp3 I thought it was a touch trickier but then mp3 is a pull, throw, pull, throw type thing the way I did it and that suits me just fine (certainly wouldn't go with the "hard" 7b vote on pb.com) iron eyes seemed more subtle - now I really think about it iron eyes did seem in the same ballpark as Sauvito.

[Drew]

Rather than write it all out again:

Had a session on Left Hand Man The Art of White Hat Wearing just after doing Dick Williams 2 years ago. So nearly topped out. I think I got to the pocket, but dropped it trying to match it I got to within one move of the top. Finally went back again tonight this afternoon, had completely forgotten my beta, so watched Nai's Secrets of the Garden beforehand someone else do it. Tried it his way. Totally shut down (Nai you're a beast). Ended up trying my lanky mate's beta which I dismissed 2 years ago. Fucking nailed it! Happy days.

[Gritlad]

Nice one Drew for Art of.. its a class problem!

[Bonjoy]

Cheers Dr T. That Asylum beta sounds desperate! Good effort.

[Drew]

This is just getting silly now

Rather than write it all out again:

Had a session on Left Hand Man The Art of White Hat Wearing Famous Grouse just after doing Dick Williams 2 years ago. So nearly topped out. I think I got to the pocket, but dropped it trying to match it I got to within one move of the top. Finally went back again tonight this afternoon this morning, had completely forgotten my beta, so watched Nai's Secrets of the Garden beforehand someone else do try it. Tried it his way. Totally shut down (Nai you're a beast). Ended up trying my lanky mate's beta which I dismissed 2 years ago. Fucking nailed it! Happy days. Then both guys who's beta I was using did it straight after. Awesome morning!

Also going to Font on Tuesday. Fingers crossed this form continues.

[Wood FT]

YYFY, took the afternoon off work and flashed Nosferatu. Light flutter of snow, good group of mates, magic.

[b3n99]

Really good effort Guy, nice when it all comes together.

Had a major YYFY today, finally getting up West Side Story. Tickled the jug first time then sent with a major scream the next. Sorry to anyone who was planning on a calm, quiet afternoon in the Burbage Valley.

[willackers]

ET sent home

Good work!

[Wood FT]

Hope someone gets A YYFY on the north face of burbage tomorrow to complete the set

Sorry to anyone who was planning on a calm, quiet afternoon in the Burbage Valley.

+1, I've been watching too much Dan Honeyman

[Nibile]

YYFY! On good rungs though.