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YYFY!!! (Read 2102771 times)

SA Chris

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#3100 Re: YYFY!!!
May 25, 2012, 11:33:41 am
Nice one anyway. Bet it's brick hard regardless.

horn

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#3101 Re: YYFY!!!
May 26, 2012, 01:40:10 pm
Asked spazlegs to marry me!!!!!!!! She said yes!!!!!!!!!!!  :) ;D :great: :wub:

Obi-Wan is lost...

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#3102 Re: YYFY!!!
May 26, 2012, 07:20:28 pm
 Congrats! Nice day for it.

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#3103 Re: YYFY!!!
May 26, 2012, 09:28:43 pm
Repeated abbeydale out of sheff in big ring.. Easy.

Did chesser to sheff, via Unstone ( top gear on hill) to Dronfield woodhouse then norton in big ring.

And this is meant to be a MTB year!

 :great:

Fiend

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#3104 Re: YYFY!!!
May 30, 2012, 11:43:09 am
Did two of the best cracks in Scotland this weekend:

Whispering Crack at Rubha Hunish - was a bit nervous about this as the line is epic, but it all went smoothly....amazing route, like 5 gritstone HVSes stacked on top of each other, best route I've done this year.

Pump Up The Jam at....beneath the Cuillin - also a bit nervous about this as I was totally syked but there was no way I was having it as a project with the 1.5 hour slog-in. Walked in in my underpants (I now have burnt thighs), spent an hour brushing, chalking, and visualising it, had a power-nap, got woken by a deer barking (noisy buggers), did some deep breathing, and crushed it first go. Walked out in my underpants and went skinny dipping in the half-way stream.



 :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

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#3105 Re: YYFY!!!
May 30, 2012, 12:38:56 pm
Did two of the best cracks in Scotland this weekend:

Whispering Crack at Rubha Hunish - was a bit nervous about this as the line is epic, but it all went smoothly....amazing route, like 5 gritstone HVSes stacked on top of each other, best route I've done this year.

Pump Up The Jam at....beneath the Cuillin - also a bit nervous about this as I was totally syked but there was no way I was having it as a project with the 1.5 hour slog-in. Walked in in my underpants (I now have burnt thighs), spent an hour brushing, chalking, and visualising it, had a power-nap, got woken by a deer barking (noisy buggers), did some deep breathing, and crushed it first go. Walked out in my underpants and went skinny dipping in the half-way stream.



 :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

Good work Mat!  PUtJ is such a classic!  Taped up or naked?

Need to get to Rubha Hunish soon...

Fiend

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#3106 Re: YYFY!!!
May 30, 2012, 01:53:58 pm
Naked. Was tempted to do it actually naked but it was a wee bit midgy around there. Got a few minor scratches, the inside of the crack is pretty smooth. It's pretty easy really, but lovely jamming.

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#3107 Re: YYFY!!!
May 30, 2012, 04:44:38 pm
Do I spy crack tickmarks?!

Fiend

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#3108 Re: YYFY!!!
May 30, 2012, 04:49:31 pm
Loads! I ticked every good jam on both sides of the crack, and was going to mark the foot-jams too but they were pretty obvious - wasn't going to muff it by spending ages wiggling in the wrong jam. It would be quite interesting to "onsight" it by chucking your pads on the finishing boulders, not looking at the crack and starting at the far end.

I thoroughly brushed them off afterwards.


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#3109 Re: YYFY!!!
May 30, 2012, 06:11:51 pm
It would be quite interesting to "onsight" it by chucking your pads on the finishing boulders, not looking at the crack and starting at the far end.


That's what I did!

And fell of about 3 moves in...

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#3110 Re: YYFY!!!
May 30, 2012, 11:01:54 pm
Walked out in my underpants and went skinny dipping in the half-way stream.

Any video of the pants walking or skinny dipping?

Photos?

It'd be good to have a whole new angle to picking on Fiend to help me feel better about being a million mile away from having a weekend as good as his

Nice one Fiendy boy

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#3111 Re: YYFY!!!
May 31, 2012, 11:18:43 am
Any video of the pants walking or skinny dipping?
Photos?
Sorry no. That's pants and stockings of course. I took them off for bathing.

Quote
It'd be good to have a whole new angle to picking on Fiend to help me feel better about being a million mile away from having a weekend as good as his
Not quite a new angle but this might help??



 :wall: :punk:

Hope you're continuing to heal well and can get active soon.

SA Chris

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#3112 Re: YYFY!!!
May 31, 2012, 11:45:03 am
Strong fiend.

Trying to figure out the forces on that rock causing the crack to form, will if be an offwidth in a thousand or so years?

Fultonius

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#3113 Re: YYFY!!!
May 31, 2012, 12:46:48 pm
WTF does V4++ mean?

I guess it's hard to grade jam cracks and I haven't been on it in years, so can't comment. Other than it was originally given V6/Font7A.

I guess it's like most things involving jams, seems OK if you can jam, and desperate if you can't!  Great problem though!

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#3114 Re: YYFY!!!
May 31, 2012, 12:56:22 pm
sound track?

I thought your camera was just picking up its own noise

Fiend

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#3115 Re: YYFY!!!
May 31, 2012, 01:39:17 pm
 :tease:

V4++ is somewhere between V4+ and V5-, obviously  :chair:

It's not any harder, despite the guide's dramatic description. Very jamming-specific, but then so is The File etc. If you had huge hands it would be harder....small hands would be fine as there's lots of tighter bits.

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#3116 Re: YYFY!!!
May 31, 2012, 02:18:33 pm
Excellent video!  Loved the soundtrack, I can imagine it going through your head as you climbed. Beats the Wallace and Gromit theme tune that normally seems to go round in my head as I climb...

Probes

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#3117 Re: YYFY!!!
May 31, 2012, 02:31:07 pm
What a great looking problem & vid. Just out of interest is all that shit flying about at the end... midges?

Fiend

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#3118 Re: YYFY!!!
May 31, 2012, 05:14:34 pm
Mostly chalk I think.

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#3119 Re: YYFY!!!
May 31, 2012, 10:32:33 pm
7B hattrick at the Tor tonight... Me and my wing-man had the bouldering to ourselves  :)

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#3120 Re: YYFY!!!
June 01, 2012, 09:09:06 pm
Nice one pal, good skills. You had it to yourself cos its shit :tease:

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#3121 Re: YYFY!!!
June 02, 2012, 09:26:25 pm
Modest punter chuffing yyfy, but what the hell: Smoke On The Water at Nassereith in Austria today, my first 6c onsight this century (and third ever iirc)

Had to remind myself the whole way that the original title of the song is not in fact "Smoke on't Watter" (which I'm reasonably sure I also did at some point Back In The Day)

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#3122 Re: YYFY!!!
June 02, 2012, 09:55:00 pm
Modest punter chuffing yyfy, but what the hell: Smoke On The Water at Nassereith in Austria today, my first 6c onsight this century (and third ever iirc)

Nice one!

Did my first and second 6C+s today, both at Minus Ten. When I set a target to do a 7A this year it felt improbable, now it seems only injury can stop me.  :dance1:

Kinda pales into insignificance compared to the guy who did Quent's Dyno on his third go, though- his previous bouldering PB was 6B!  :blink:

Wood FT

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#3123 Re: YYFY!!!
June 02, 2012, 09:59:25 pm
if its the 6C+ from the same start as lucian's then that it is a great problem, nice one

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#3124 Re: YYFY!!!
June 02, 2012, 10:30:23 pm
Modest punter chuffing yyfy, but what the hell: Smoke On The Water at Nassereith in Austria today, my first 6c onsight this century (and third ever iirc)

Nice one!

Did my first and second 6C+s today, both at Minus Ten. When I set a target to do a 7A this year it felt improbable, now it seems only injury can stop me.  :dance1:

Kinda pales into insignificance compared to the guy who did Quent's Dyno on his third go, though- his previous bouldering PB was 6B!  :blink:

If you're sending 6c+ on the lime only a matter of time before you do a 7a on grit word.

 

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