YYFY!!! (Read 2103125 times)

SA Chris · May 16, 2012, 01:09:00 pm

Holler! You know where we are. I'm busy early Sat morning and lunchtime (I think) , but other than DIY and gardening, mostly free. The new bouldering cave is a lovely spot, even a non-boulderer would love chilling there. And can do the recording!

erm, sam · May 17, 2012, 01:12:37 pm

yahoo! If the "bastards" do give you an amazing can't refuse offer, refuse it! The Chief beckons...

lukeh · May 20, 2012, 12:56:17 pm

Finally made it to France for my first Font trip and bagged six 7's despite dodgy elbows, can't wait for more!

erm, sam · May 20, 2012, 06:16:07 pm

Good trip!

b3n99 · May 20, 2012, 06:57:54 pm

First 8a sport route today, H1N1 at Dinas. Went pretty quick too, second go from bottom second session this year and a play for one session last year. Uper happy, good to be back on a rope.

YYFY!

lukeyboy · May 20, 2012, 07:54:24 pm

Nice work ben!!

tomtom · May 20, 2012, 08:04:45 pm

My first YYFY in a while....

Its not massive, but a project thats been eluding me for a few months...

After two weeks of not climbing due to work, weekend/family/eating commitments and a bought of TomTomFlu - I snuck out to Helsby this evening after getting back to Manchester... Conditions a bit sticky and windless, but my movement felt smooth and sharp.. knees tucking in, body tight to the rock. I warmed up and then stuck the 'V6' low traverse that I've been working for 5 or 6 sessions.. Nice problem, two powerful cross throughs for my beta - It feels more like 7A+ than 7A to me... anyway. Time for a beer

Its funny how the body can perform after some time off.. I suspect my stamina would have been rubbish, but I felt really sharp and balanced as I climbed...

mark s · May 21, 2012, 06:42:10 pm

at the gym tonight i managed 200 kg deadlift.1st go i got it off the ground and realised i hadnt got my belt on so started again.i couldnt have done any more.will leave 1 rep max for a few weeks and try a bit more.
not really into how much i can lift but it felt good

Baldy · May 23, 2012, 01:12:25 pm

Possibly a YYFY but I think not,

I did the line of Phasis down at Bowles on the Crumbly stuff last weekend.
If I did it right, then this is my first 7C, but considering I thought it felt piss easy for the grade, I assume I did it wrong.

Can anyone confirm or deny the sequence?

I did it the same way this chap did it (I have read the comment below, but the guide is pretty vague about the whole thing)

Jaspersharpe · May 23, 2012, 04:35:08 pm

Wtf? I climbed every possible variation on that wall when I was a kid. Don't think any were 7C!

Jaspersharpe · May 23, 2012, 05:34:13 pm

Sorry just realised I sound like a prize cunt there.

Wasn't belittling your achievement it's just I can't believe people are claiming, naming and grading shit eliminates on Fandango wall which were all done pre 1990.

I hereby retroclaim all of them.

Baldy · May 23, 2012, 05:51:25 pm

It is in the guide at 7C for going up to that pocket without the left hand being higher.
Thats all I can say - as I said, I dont think that what I did is 7C so I'm not bothered by your comments.
I just thought I would try and draw on the wealth of knowledge present around here (I know it is here somewhere

)

Here is a picture from the guide

tomtom · May 23, 2012, 07:54:46 pm

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on May 23, 2012, 05:34:13 pm

I hereby retroclaim all of them.

:D

a dense loner · May 23, 2012, 11:58:46 pm

I hereby say jasper overgraded all them problems pre 90's. Tho they prob were much harder with all that American football gear on

T_B · May 24, 2012, 08:46:04 am

Quote from: a dense loner on May 23, 2012, 11:58:46 pm

Tho they prob were much harder with all that American football gear on

Very good

Jaspersharpe · May 24, 2012, 12:25:29 pm

Quote from: Baldy on May 23, 2012, 05:51:25 pm

It is in the guide at 7C for going up to that pocket without the left hand being higher.
Thats all I can say - as I said, I dont think that what I did is 7C so I'm not bothered by your comments.
I just thought I would try and draw on the wealth of knowledge present around here (I know it is here somewhere )

Here is a picture from the guide

Maybe something's snapped in the last 20 years. More than likely.

Interestingly, I was trying an eliminate using a tiny shit crimp which would be in between lines 43 and 44 on that topo. Has nobody done it? Think this would have been harder than all the other problems mentioned there (as it was the only one I didn't do).

I'm not being helpful at all am I.

Quote from: a dense loner on May 23, 2012, 11:58:46 pm

I hereby say jasper overgraded all them problems pre 90's. Tho they prob were much harder with all that American football gear on

It was just a t-shirt not pads and a helmet....... you helmet.

fatdoc · May 24, 2012, 08:28:32 pm

Gone from a 34" waist to 30" over 2012, one month ahead of target.

Truly stoked

Still a bit of a chubber though, esp in climbing terms.

clm · May 24, 2012, 09:26:34 pm

A chubber with a 30 inch waist! Even I'm a 32.

Percy B · May 24, 2012, 09:43:40 pm

Quote from: fatdoc on May 24, 2012, 08:28:32 pm

Gone from a 34" waist to 30" over 2012, one month ahead of target.

Truly stoked

Still a bit of a chubber though, esp in climbing terms.

I presume you mean feet, not inches....

fatdoc · May 24, 2012, 09:55:35 pm

Yeah....

C'mon.. I'm proud of this!

Still a way to go mind.

SA Chris · May 24, 2012, 11:40:20 pm

Good work fella. It's not easy!

a dense loner · May 25, 2012, 05:57:26 am

Tell me about it, it really is hard work tryna look this good

Nibile · May 25, 2012, 06:21:03 am

Climbed my project yesterday. Calm like a bomb.

SA Chris · May 25, 2012, 09:10:07 am

THE Project?

Great news mate!

Nibile · May 25, 2012, 11:03:16 am

hey Chris!!!
if you mean the roof, no. it'll have to wait until Autumn, to see me finally top out.
it was another project that I thought would have been a quick one, and that instead resisted for six sessions at least.
I have some footage, will post it!
thanks anyway!!!