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YYFY!!! (Read 2103188 times)

Nibile

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#3050 Re: YYFY!!!
May 11, 2012, 12:32:37 pm
Despite always being in my bag, this time I did not wear it. On this problem there is a particularly tenuous underclings section and I couldn't risk ripping it off...
 :tease:
Jokes apart, I had it on while working it, but not on the ascent. It's one of those magical things...

Oldmanmatt

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#3051 Re: YYFY!!!
May 12, 2012, 04:36:25 pm
Small one...

But not to me.

Finally got on Supertrouper!!!

Whats that? Four months after deciding to project it?

It'll go. Coming up short on the sloper as yet, but feel like that and the next move will go. Difficulty holding the lock, which I shall have to work on.

Made far more progress on the 7C roof/Saddle tor traverse. Stuck making the transition from the roof to the slopers.
Again, coming up short from the lock...
The remainder is an endurance fest on the slopers and felt fairly straight forward (?!), have to see when I come to link it up.

Pretty happy at the progress for an hour and a quarter on the rock...

Nick B

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#3052 Re: YYFY!!!
May 12, 2012, 09:32:58 pm
Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner

dave

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#3053 Re: YYFY!!!
May 12, 2012, 11:10:15 pm
Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner

awesome fucking welles.

Eddies

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#3054 Re: YYFY!!!
May 13, 2012, 01:02:45 am
Sent Ram Air at Ramshaw Rocks today AND gorra a birra sunburn on't top of me swede... a good day indeed  ;D
Calafornina Screaming on the other hand...!

BB

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#3055 Re: YYFY!!!
May 13, 2012, 08:40:46 am
YYFY! I've bagged the first of my winter projects. Ticked Vitamin C at Sissy this morning after failing to stick the final sloper for months over the Summer.

Monolith

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#3056 Re: YYFY!!!
May 13, 2012, 10:05:08 am
Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner

This better not be some cruel hoax! Move over Stephen Fry.

Oldmanmatt

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#3057 Re: YYFY!!!
May 13, 2012, 10:16:53 am
Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner

This better not be some cruel hoax! Move over Stephen Fry.

More the bastard child of Simon Cowell / Victor Meldrew and Anne Robinson...
But Educated by a Stephen Fry, who's not been taking his meds...

SA Chris

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#3058 Re: YYFY!!!
May 13, 2012, 10:34:58 am
#everythingsshit is already trending

clm

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#3059 Re: YYFY!!!
May 13, 2012, 06:32:49 pm
The obvious :clap2:

Gritlad

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#3060 Re: YYFY!!!
May 14, 2012, 11:07:52 am
Highballed Entropys Jaw yesterday, have been waiting to do for so long now and just had a fantastic day yesterday made all the better by this route, good times  :)

Johnny Brown

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#3061 Re: YYFY!!!
May 14, 2012, 12:02:08 pm
Nice work, classic green door move that one...

erm, sam

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#3062 Re: YYFY!!!
May 14, 2012, 12:20:43 pm
Nice one, highballing Entropys Jaw is on my 'one day' list.. How many pads/spotters did you have? I assume the crux is pretty much as the top?

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#3063 Re: YYFY!!!
May 14, 2012, 12:29:48 pm
cheers. Erm, Sam, I had 4 pads and one spot, dont know about the crux, can imagine differant people thinking the crux is in differant places on it depending on how you climb it, looks like some people climb the crack pretty face on while I just used the crack for my right hand and right foot. perfectly fine with 4 pads, took a fall when my fingers were about 5mm  from the top and slid down but the pads sort of slip a little and you land on your arse before you feel anything.
 Hope this helps  :)
 

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#3064 Re: YYFY!!!
May 14, 2012, 01:01:26 pm
Never seen anyone do it like that, did you not feel a bit close to wild thing? Usual way is a step through off the little ramp, leading to a good foothold out on the right, this then sets you up face-on for the top bit (thumb-down sprags!) which is intimidating but usually okay...

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#3065 Re: YYFY!!!
May 14, 2012, 01:26:51 pm
(thumb-down sprags!) which is intimidating but usually okay...

yeh thats how i remember it, marginal...  :thumbsdown:

Gritlad

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#3066 Re: YYFY!!!
May 14, 2012, 01:35:58 pm
Never seen anyone do it like that, did you not feel a bit close to wild thing? Usual way is a step through off the little ramp, leading to a good foothold out on the right, this then sets you up face-on for the top bit (thumb-down sprags!) which is intimidating but usually okay...

this contains beta, bad beta but still beta

yeah thats what I did but instead of thumb down sprags e.t.c i used a gaston in the crack to get stood up on the sort of good foothold/ nipple type thing, left on smeary/edge then my left hand was just pasted holding nothing on the left while i moved my right hand up to a sort of crimp/pinch up in the crack then up. So for the most part your left hand is just there for balance

seen in this video from 3mins onwards

fried

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#3067 Re: YYFY!!!
May 14, 2012, 05:36:33 pm
Brilliant spotting at 1.40  :2thumbsup:

Wood FT

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#3068 Re: YYFY!!!
May 14, 2012, 07:46:54 pm
Brilliant spotting at 1.40  :2thumbsup:

 :bow:

mark s

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#3069 Re: YYFY!!!
May 14, 2012, 08:57:09 pm
Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner

i was following him,but got bored so ive unfollowed him now  ;D

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#3070 Re: YYFY!!!
May 14, 2012, 11:12:04 pm
 :boxing: Great spotting indeed

a dense loner

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#3071 Re: YYFY!!!
May 15, 2012, 02:31:41 pm
 Thank fuck for that, I can start again  :popcorn:

SA Chris

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#3072 Re: YYFY!!!
May 16, 2012, 10:07:24 am
Did project line in Muchalls Cave yesterday night. Could only do first move 1 in 5 attempts and then kept dropping last move, but finally nailed it as it was getting colder, but before moisture started condensing on the rock. No idea of grade though, as although it's not my style (steep) it definitely plays to my strengths - reachy!

SA Chris

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#3073 Re: YYFY!!!
May 16, 2012, 10:32:50 am
No. See the DSLR Video post!!!! Cut out mid crux!

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#3074 Re: YYFY!!!
May 16, 2012, 11:33:16 am
No. See the DSLR Video post!!!! Cut out mid crux!

No video, no send. Back around.



Just kidding!  Nice one Chris, might be up your way the the other half this weekend. May try and sneak out for a couple hours of bouldering.

 

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