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YYFY!!! (Read 2102797 times)

leeroy

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#3025 Re: YYFY!!!
May 03, 2012, 02:17:01 pm
both great efforts. definately wouldnt recomend famous grouse as being a good first 7c, i cant touch it!

nai

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#3026 Re: YYFY!!!
May 03, 2012, 05:02:38 pm

Duma

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#3027 Re: YYFY!!!
May 03, 2012, 11:11:25 pm
nice, not seen that sequence - only ever tried (and failed) like this:

galpinos

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#3028 Re: YYFY!!!
May 04, 2012, 10:23:37 am
if it might help, here's the (short man's) beta:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6407.msg360602.html#msg360602

From leeroy's videos, I get the feeling he's not the shortest of men.......

nai

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#3029 Re: YYFY!!!
May 04, 2012, 10:34:52 am
I think you're right, but I am.... no reason this sequence wouldn't work for taller folk although I think it'd be possible to reach the second LH sloper before deploying the heel hook on the rib.  The sequence in the other vid may be feasible for Leeroy but I couldn't reach the higher hold on the arete from the undercut and my legs aren't flexible enough to fold onto the holds at the lip. 
This is one of those problems though that seems to have loads of different methods and no doubt many more subtleties within each sequence depending on body shape, strengths, weaknesses, etc.  Very much a case of looking, formulating, trying, eliminating, repeat 'til successful.
 
« Last Edit: May 04, 2012, 10:41:20 am by nai »

mark s

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#3030 Re: YYFY!!!
May 07, 2012, 07:46:48 am
climbed for the 1st time this year at ramshaw with andi.managed 3 v3's .i would have done them 40 foot up in the past.certainly not now
its amazing how you forget how to climb.
enjoyed it though

Drew

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#3031 Re: YYFY!!!
May 07, 2012, 08:20:56 am
From leeroy's videos, I get the feeling he's not the shortest of men.......

5'11" with a healthy ape index I think.

Duma

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#3032 Re: YYFY!!!
May 07, 2012, 10:13:26 am
christ! must weigh about 4 stone!

Wood FT

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#3033 Re: YYFY!!!
May 07, 2012, 10:30:17 am
christ! must weigh about 4 stone!

aye but he offsets that by growing a hefty banf of a hairdo, kids got ethics.

tomtom

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#3034 Re: YYFY!!!
May 07, 2012, 11:22:10 am
christ! must weigh about 4 stone!

aye but he offsets that by growing a hefty banf of a hairdo, kids got ethics.

Please let banf be a spelling mistake, rather than me being even further from being down wid da kids ;)

youngy

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#3035 Re: YYFY!!!
May 07, 2012, 11:24:12 am
YYFY after a year plagued with injury i feel i've started training again and back out on real rock.
After a very short session a couple of weeks ago at Longridge gave Big Marine a go and got spanked.
Returned yesterday to destroy it!!
absolutley shat myself on the last move though with no spotters but so pleased to be back in the game!!
 :dance1:

fatneck

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#3036 Re: YYFY!!!
May 07, 2012, 01:38:27 pm
Effort Youngy lad! Good tick that...

I had a boss day out at Caley yesterday which was significant in that the wife tried really, really hard and surprised both of us by climbing a 5+ slab! Only her third time out, but the first time she's really fought hard with something and got really psyched by climbing. I sense a family Font trip is considerably more likely :-)

The day was also boss because we saw Red Kite's at very close range (but there's another thread for that...)

youngy

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#3037 Re: YYFY!!!
May 07, 2012, 03:09:17 pm
Did it look like this Si?

Richie Crouch

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#3038 Re: YYFY!!!
May 07, 2012, 05:51:13 pm
More like this I suspect:


fatneck

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#3039 Re: YYFY!!!
May 08, 2012, 10:42:38 am
Twats...

Actually, like this! (Apologies for size and poor quality of picture...)


Monolith

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#3040 Re: YYFY!!!
May 08, 2012, 11:04:52 am
Class pigeon that Si.  ;)

SA Chris

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#3041 Re: YYFY!!!
May 08, 2012, 11:57:35 am
Looks black to me.

lagerstarfish

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#3042 Re: YYFY!!!
May 08, 2012, 11:59:31 am
I can now stand, one legged, on the ball of my foot - the leg with the broken ankle.

I can't push myself up into this position with one leg/foot, but that can't be far off.

This encourages me to think that top-ropeing routes might be possible....

Nibile

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#3043 Re: YYFY!!!
May 10, 2012, 12:59:39 pm
I'm grinning like a mofo.
after a few days off and with my dodgy wrist I went bouldering today and did an 8a.
fooooooooooooookin' yesssssssssss
life's crazy.

cheque

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#3044 Re: YYFY!!!
May 10, 2012, 01:42:44 pm
I went bouldering today and did an 8a.

Nice one!

Nibile

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#3045 Re: YYFY!!!
May 10, 2012, 07:28:41 pm
thanks guys! nope, not the first one but for sure the one that felt the easiest.

leeroy

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#3046 Re: YYFY!!!
May 10, 2012, 09:16:41 pm
but for sure the one that felt the easiest.

training paying off nicely!

andy popp

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#3047 Re: YYFY!!!
May 10, 2012, 09:22:56 pm
but for sure the one that felt the easiest.

training paying off nicely!

... and the resting?

Nibile

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#3048 Re: YYFY!!!
May 11, 2012, 06:26:03 am
Oh yes, definitely!!! I felt it on every move.

Monolith

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#3049 Re: YYFY!!!
May 11, 2012, 12:07:30 pm
And the armband? Did it accompany you upwards Lo?

 

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