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YYFY!!! (Read 2103159 times)

al123

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#2600 Re: YYFY!!!
June 18, 2011, 11:31:51 am
thanks for the comments and i guess everyone is entitled to a opinion on it.
yes i did get the rope lowered from the top as i was on the small ledge thing after the crux but with a 5b/c move left involving a balancey move with a small crimp, i just didn't fancy committing to that move as it had started raining and looked like it was just going to carry on raining and worsen so i thought if i dont get out of here im stuck on this ledge getting piss wet through and scared so i opted for the rope then did the move, went away, came back and soloed the route from the bottom. maybe not ground up or whatever but surely better than top roping it and getting it wired ( no offence to when you did it Fatdoc ) and surely a good effort for my first E5?? infact this is the first E route higher than E3 for me. but since i had a rope on the last third because of the rain i guess its a shit effort and not worthy????
just my two cents....

AJM

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#2601 Re: YYFY!!!
June 18, 2011, 11:43:10 am
Then Seven Months Later was the 7c - awesome! Finger locking, fist jamming, toe jamming, arete climbing, heel hooks - short but everything is in it!!! Really recommend it!

Will bear that one in mind for the future - having had my own YYFY moment ticking House Burning Down as my first 7b+ (in 2 sessions, which surprised me) earlier this week I've been eagerly scanning the guidebook for new things to get stuck into...

a dense loner

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#2602 Re: YYFY!!!
June 18, 2011, 04:57:07 pm
ha ha, yes it is a good effort. however its not what you wrote, you said you'd ground upped an E5 and you haven't. this isn't a jibe at you, its the context of the interweb. its like me going to a pr0n shoot claiming to have 12 inches then everyone laughing at me cos its only 8

north_country_boy

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#2603 Re: YYFY!!!
June 18, 2011, 05:18:58 pm
ha ha, yes it is a good effort. however its not what you wrote, you said you'd ground upped an E5 and you haven't. this isn't a jibe at you, its the context of the interweb. its like me going to a pr0n shoot claiming to have 12 inches then everyone laughing at me cos its only 8

Laughing because your idea of 8 inches is different to everybody elses?!  :-*

Fiend

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#2604 Re: YYFY!!!
June 18, 2011, 06:06:55 pm
maybe not ground up or whatever but surely better than top roping it and getting it wired ( no offence to when you did it Fatdoc )
Yes it is better. It's definitely a good effort for trying to do it ground up and not top-roping it.
Quote
and surely a good effort for my first E5??
But it isn't E5 that way. The E5 is for the experience of doing it all onsight.

Congrats on your attempt though, I respect that. Much better to attempt in a good style.

Andy B

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#2605 Re: YYFY!!!
June 18, 2011, 06:09:41 pm
its like me going to a pr0n shoot claiming to have 12 inches then everyone laughing at me cos its only 8

You missed the centimetres off the end of your post.

a dense loner

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#2606 Re: YYFY!!!
June 18, 2011, 06:28:50 pm
thats how these threads survive andy

Monolith

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#2607 Re: YYFY!!!
June 18, 2011, 06:56:03 pm
I went climbing today Lee. Think I did 19 hand movements. YYFY.

ianv

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#2608 Re: YYFY!!!
June 18, 2011, 09:02:33 pm
I also suggest we all step away from the whole ground up/onsight/flash/headpoint/hamster vs gerbil debate  - as its all starting to sound a bit like the other channel....


Picture1 by ianvincent, on Flickr

Bubba

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#2609 Re: YYFY!!!
June 18, 2011, 09:18:05 pm
Since when has this thread moved from being an outlet for joy at having done something that means alot to the person posting; to being some sort of judgemental ranking system for whether or not it was worthy?
 
Daft.

In my view a YYFY can range from having a kid, popping your first ollie, doing an 8A... submitting your thesis/dissertation: something that means a great deal to the person doing it and they feel the need to share it with the rest of the board. Thats what it seems like to me. I've posted on here about making my first 7a+, 7B and 7B+ respectively - all of which were projects that took several weeks/months so meant alot to me....

This ISNT the signficant repeats thread... which seems to be more focused on whether or not something is significant or not.

I also suggest we all step away from the whole ground up/onsight/flash/headpoint/hamster vs gerbil debate  - as its all starting to sound a bit like the other channel....

(well done al btw...).

:agree: with everything Tom says here - FFS this topic is about celebrating those things that make you feel "YYF Yes!" ... no matter what it is.

Moo

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#2610 Re: YYFY!!!
June 18, 2011, 10:17:24 pm
I punched an old old lady in the face today it was f***ing mega YYFY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BB

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#2611 Re: YYFY!!!
June 18, 2011, 11:32:36 pm
Do they have hoverboards?

No, but they do have a Welsh prime minister... does that count? ;)

And an economy.

mark s

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#2612 Re: YYFY!!!
June 19, 2011, 10:03:18 am
I had 8 wanks today,not done that since my 16th birthday! Yyfy

Bubba

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#2613 Re: YYFY!!!
June 19, 2011, 10:04:20 am

That's good going for 10am.

205Chris

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#2614 Re: YYFY!!!
June 19, 2011, 10:04:41 am
I had 8 wanks today,not done that since my 16th birthday! Yyfy

I once went 11 years without a wank. And then I turned 12.

measles23

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#2615 Re: YYFY!!!
June 19, 2011, 02:03:18 pm
Sorry, enough onanism already, back on topic – climber went climbing and enjoyed it shocker etc..

Have been exploring the boundary between recreation and obsession recently and after 20 odd sessions have overcome the biggest psychological challenge I can remember by climbing low left press at t’rubicon.

After dropping it from the last move early on I got trapped in a rut of knowing I could do it but failing to get the job done; got into a vicious cycle of struggling to link the start, then figuring out a “solid” way of sharing the sloper after getting too tired to link it, coming back next time and finding the “solid” way wasn’t solid at all, flailing around failing to link, discovering a new “solid” sequence, too tired etc.. on and on I count I’ve done that sloper-sharing move twelve different ways!

Then I found a technique that was solid and had a session falling off the last move or the press 5 times in a row, knowing I would get it next time; next time came round and I just lost my mojo and couldn’t remember how to position my body at all – back to square one aaargh..

So armed with my latest solid sequence and an alpine start, with nothing but an angry swan and some moorhens as witnesses I got on it this morning.
Unfortunately the problem is long enough for me to have a distracting internal dialogue that goes something like this:

Little angel on one shoulder: “Right let’s do it”
Little devil on t’other shoulder: “hmm little finger feels bit greasy on the sloper, you’re not gonna get it this time”
Lil devil: “hmm toe-hook’s popped too early you’ll be off for sure”
Lil devil: “you’re not very fresh, this all feels a bit tenuous”
Lil angel: “well actually you have linked the traverse and there’s still something left in the tank..”
Lil devil: “that was a bit wild you haven’t got the press hold well you’ll have to waste juice repositioning, no chance…”
Lil devil: “you’ve not held the crimp too well – not feeling the bite from it, and you’re very low to make the last move – you’ll drop it again like you always do..”

And then something changed – that little devil got distracted for just a second, the voices went quiet and time slowed; the next fraction of a second felt like minutes and I could feel every point of contact - could tell I had the crimp OK enough, feet felt solid and I felt a new texture, a new traction from the press hold that I knew meant I didn’t have to drop it again. Time started up and before I can think I can feel the big bite of the final jug and my arms just want to keep pulling up and up in the jugginess of it all!

I’d promised myself a proper reserved British celebration such as “well done mate, right what’s next” but in the end let out such an uncontrolled bellow that Lagers heard me from the car park and thought the celtic hordes were invading..

I think we’re very lucky that there are so many different ways of enjoying the sport – next week I’ll be out on grit VDIffs with the wife and doubtless have a great day out – but there is something so uniquely special in that fraction of a second of actually doing a sequence of moves that have taken so long to master..

Yes, yes..

Norton Sharley

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#2616 Re: YYFY!!!
June 19, 2011, 05:44:53 pm
I didn't suggest Al's ascent wasn't worthy,  I simply questioned how it could be a ground up solo when it involved a rope? I think the most impressive aspect was going back to solo it 'properly'. 

What does seem like the other channel on here these days is the amount of spray.  I'll get my coat shall I?

Will Hunt

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#2617 Re: YYFY!!!
June 19, 2011, 09:45:11 pm
An awesome post, Measles. I felt a little YYFY myself reading it. The little devil is all too familiar and I'm always surprised at how often a problem might still be possible even when something so glaringly imperfect has happened as taking the crimp etc a little far right.

Next time I feel de-syked I will come back to this thread and read your post. Well done.

jakes

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#2618 Re: YYFY!!!
June 20, 2011, 10:16:55 am
Re: little devils on shoulders, i.e.having negative thoughts on projects, I found the section on competitions and mentality in Moffat's/Grimer's Revelations useful- worth a read if you havn't done already. Plus I liked grimer's note at the back with his positive mentality mantra of "I am Jerry Moffat".

SA Chris

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#2619 Re: YYFY!!!
June 20, 2011, 11:30:41 am
I had 8 wanks today,not done that since my 16th birthday! Yyfy

Welcome to fatherhood ;)

SA Chris

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#2620 Re: YYFY!!!
June 20, 2011, 11:33:55 am
Good achievements all round, but some grumpy fuckers making themselves heard on here and on "significant repeats". All a but UKC for my liking.

Went Zorbing on Friday great fun, i think I hurt myself laughing too hard. Vid to follow.

fatdoc

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#2621 Re: YYFY!!!
June 20, 2011, 09:19:00 pm
keen to see that....

Fultonius

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#2622 Re: YYFY!!!
June 20, 2011, 10:50:00 pm
Right, I'm going indulge myself and get this thread back on track.  :chair:

Yeah Yeah Fucking YEAH YEAH YEAH  :dance1: 

Went down to Dumby tonight despite it being the third day climbing in a row, as the forecast is shit for the rest of the week. Warmed up, conditions felt ok considering the odd spit of rain and looming dark clouds. Quick text to check a belayer is coming, fuck no - everyone's bailed!  One of the Dumby regulars turns up looking to do a route, nice, we're on!

Get on my project, put the clips in, feels ok today - redpoint is on. 10 minutes rest and chilling out, but redpoint nerves are getting to me. Have 2 shit redpoints and moan about "crap conditions", belay John on his project.

Get back on the route trying desperately to fool myself into believing this is not a redpoint, I'm only stripping the route. Clip, move, clip, foot swap, crux, clip, twist, jug. From the first move to the last I'm repeating "it feels really good, it feels really good..." 3 more moves, through the second crux and hit the jug, this time - no mistake on the easy heel-hook move I've fallen off before, 3 more easy clips, chains, done, nothing. Weird anticlimax, no urge to shout or fist pump. Odd.

So, first F8a done, 7 or so sessions on it, 13 months after my triple-ligament knee operation!  Think it might be time to change my avatar!  :punk:

fatdoc

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#2623 Re: YYFY!!!
June 20, 2011, 11:05:11 pm
 :great:


slackline

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#2624 Re: YYFY!!!
June 21, 2011, 06:50:21 am
Good work Fultonius, you must be chuffed.

 

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