YYFY!!! (Read 2103018 times)

nik at work · May 25, 2011, 08:09:00 am

Nice one

Muenchener · May 25, 2011, 08:16:30 am

Quote from: Eddies on May 25, 2011, 07:59:39 am

f7c ... My hardest climb before that was The Cairn at Harpur Hill (f7a/7a+)

Wow! And to what to do you attrbiute the three grade jump? Were you not trying before? Does a winter of beastly hard plastic training lie in between? Were you onsighting everything before and this is the first time you've seriously redpointed anything?

What, in other words, can the rest of us copy in order to achieve similar results?

Eddies · May 25, 2011, 12:21:27 pm

Good question, a bit of everything really.
I'm a boulderer who finds it hard to get my head together on routes, and until recently ive not spent any time training power endurance which definately made the difference to me on this route despite it being very short!
Also ive not really spent any time working a route before, I feel very pressured and have rushed previous attempts to work a route, despite TOTBB only taking me 3 visits. I felt relaxed and able to take my time to work out the beta for myself.

The weather definately helped too, ive never experienced dry periods on the lime as long as this before. Im realy physced to get some more routes done this summer

Fiend · May 26, 2011, 10:33:38 am

Putting the effort in and actually trying...

slackline · May 26, 2011, 11:07:40 am

Quote from: Fiend on May 26, 2011, 10:33:38 am

Putting the effort in and actually trying...

Which is somewhat dependent upon...

Quote from: Eddies on May 25, 2011, 12:21:27 pm

The weather definately helped too, ive never experienced dry periods on the lime as long as this before.

Fiend · May 26, 2011, 01:46:06 pm

Damn right!!

Muenchener · May 26, 2011, 02:16:39 pm

Quote from: slack---line on May 26, 2011, 11:07:40 am

Which is somewhat dependent upon...

Quote from: Eddies on May 25, 2011, 12:21:27 pm
The weather definately helped too, ive never experienced dry periods on the lime as long as this before.

Quite. In my previous climbing career as a UK weekend trad punter, I can count the number of dry weekends I ever experienced on, e.g., Cloggy on the thumbs of one hand.

Grubes · May 27, 2011, 07:48:28 am

Quote from: Eddies on May 25, 2011, 07:59:39 am

I bagged my first 'hard' sport route last night.

Effort. Nice one

Will Hunt · May 28, 2011, 11:55:41 pm

Finished my degree on Thursday. Caley this evening. Doing bold routes, it would seem, is so much easier when your head isn't riddled with stress.

PSYCHE!

lagerstarfish · May 28, 2011, 11:57:15 pm

you didn't fall off then?

nice one

Will Hunt · May 29, 2011, 12:00:03 am

Fortunately not!

Durbs · May 30, 2011, 04:58:06 pm

Just got back from my first taste of the grit

Couple of nights in the Don Whillans Hut then played around on Upper and Lower Tier boulders at the Roaches. Top stuff.

Got utterly spanked in terms of grades, and wussed out of Joe's arete as I sprained my ankle a few months ago and still not 100% confident landing on it from height - but had a wicked time all the same.

Aside from the quality of the bouldering, was also blown away as to how stunning it is up there.
I can see what the fuss is about now....

Yoof · May 31, 2011, 11:47:19 am

Quote from: Durbs on May 30, 2011, 04:58:06 pm

Just got back from my first taste of the grit
...
Aside from the quality of the bouldering, was also blown away as to how stunning it is up there.
I can see what the fuss is about now....

Grit is king. Good effort for getting out on it

a dense loner · June 01, 2011, 05:53:05 am

this is a bouldering site. its not a good effort if someone goes out bouldering

Durbs · June 01, 2011, 08:05:10 am

It is when you have to drive 4 hours to get there...

account_inactive · June 01, 2011, 09:04:04 am

No, it's just mildly inconvenient

rodma · June 01, 2011, 09:23:32 am

Quote from: Durbs on June 01, 2011, 08:05:10 am

It is when you have to drive 4 hours to get there...

Wtf

glad you enjoyed yourself, but that's not exactly an arduous journey

Quote from: a dense loner on June 01, 2011, 05:53:05 am

this is a bouldering site. its not a good effort if someone goes out bouldering

did Durbs accidentally sit on your hamster whilst enjoying the grit

This isn't significant repeats and maybe is a yyfy moment for a grit-virgin.

Jaspersharpe · June 01, 2011, 11:45:20 am

Don't be ridiculous. As if dense would own a hamster.

Will Hunt · June 01, 2011, 02:28:22 pm

Crumbs, who took the jam out of your doughnuts? Glad you enjoyed yourself, Durbs.

SA Chris · June 01, 2011, 02:59:31 pm

Dense being dense. The foody mucker.

tomtom · June 01, 2011, 03:35:44 pm

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on June 01, 2011, 11:45:20 am

Don't be ridiculous. As if dense would own a hamster.

He's not exactly Richard Gere is he...

:/

Monolith · June 01, 2011, 05:06:27 pm

Quote from: a dense loner on June 01, 2011, 05:53:05 am

its not a good effort if someone goes out bouldering

I just love the authorship here. How's the works rings champ?

Yoof · June 02, 2011, 12:02:15 am

So I went to Stoney Middleton. Onsighted Bubbles- E4 6b (I thought E3 6a), lapped it 2 times on toprope, seconded carl's wark crack, flashed Quent's dyno (I thought font 6c, though) Did the Kirton Dyno 2nd go (Once again 6c) and then nailed Lucian's undercut. BOOM.

fatboySlimfast · June 02, 2011, 08:37:55 am

I was going to punter you but something changed my mind....................

Yoof · June 02, 2011, 10:46:42 am

Quote from: fatboySlimfast on June 02, 2011, 08:37:55 am

something changed my mind....................

Lucian's undercut by any chance? You showed me the problem a while ago, and I've had a real epic on the last move.