YYFY!!! (Read 2103027 times)

slackline · May 03, 2011, 11:34:21 am

Brilliant five days in Font, nothing of note ('cause I'm shit) but got a circuit done four out of five days (one day only had half a day due to morning rain). Highlights were blues at Istatis (n = 49) and Roche aux Sablons (n = 46).

Won't be leaving it four years between visits next time.

Rocksteady · May 03, 2011, 11:55:16 am

Redpointed Rubicon on Sunday - really enjoyed the moves and line of the climb, great tick for me. Very happy

Baldy · May 03, 2011, 03:06:24 pm

After busting my finger a month before font I went with very little in mind,

but I came back with 3 'project' ticks
(read unfinished business from other trips)

Jet Set - went on our final morning session before driving home

Graviton - Attempted after Jet Set. First attempt of the trip too

Holey Moley - 3 years coming for this one, eventually pissed it first attempt of a morning session. YYFY!!!

Also did a whole load of other things I didnt intend to try, including a flash of lapin ou canard (really easy for 7a?)
Only done a few 7a's in the forest prior to this trip so something must be going well with training for this.

Well Chuffed

Unfortunately I also managed to do literally no uni work while I was out there.
Back to Supramolecular chemistry now...

Yoof · May 03, 2011, 08:44:49 pm

In one day: first F7b, flashed F7b+ :D

mr__j5 · May 04, 2011, 10:34:39 am

Quote from: Baldy on May 03, 2011, 03:06:24 pm

...

Also did a whole load of other things I didnt intend to try, including a flash of lapin ou canard (really easy for 7a?)
Only done a few 7a's in the forest prior to this trip so something must be going well with training for this.

After doing nothing more than a few 6b+ in Font last week, I pulled on to lapin ou canard on the last morning because others wanted to go back to it for a second go at it.

I topped it within about an hour, making it my second ever 7a after Trackside. So really pleased.

It felt harder than Trackside to me, but definitely at the easy end of 7a.

pyrosis · May 05, 2011, 11:17:58 am

My goal this spring had been 2x7A, one on granite on which I'm weak, and one on tuff on which I am strong. In feb I had managed to send Karma (7A, tuff), my first and only 7A for the year.

Untill last week

Last two weeks I've managed...

Seven Spanish Angels 7A (granite)
Bowling Pin Sit 7A (granite)
The Orgasm 7A (tuff)
The Hulk 7A (tuff)
and DIsco Diva 7B (tuff) YYFY!!!

I'd say I passed the goal!! Feels so good to finally break through a plateau. I feel as strong as I ever have. Will be interesting to see how tomorrows Buttermilking will go.... Looking for 7A+ now, High Plains Drifter?

chris05 · May 05, 2011, 11:21:41 am

Quote from: pyrosis on May 05, 2011, 11:17:58 am

My goal this spring had been 2x7A, one on granite on which I'm weak, and one on tuff on which I am strong. In feb I had managed to send Karma (7A, tuff), my first and only 7A for the year.

Untill last week

Last two weeks I've managed...

Seven Spanish Angels 7A (granite)
Bowling Pin Sit 7A (granite)
The Orgasm 7A (tuff)
The Hulk 7A (tuff)
and DIsco Diva 7B (tuff) YYFY!!!

I'd say I passed the goal!! Feels so good to finally break through a plateau. I feel as strong as I ever have. Will be interesting to see how tomorrows Buttermilking will go.... Looking for 7A+ now, High Plains Drifter?

Nice one Pyrosis

Hoping for a similar breakthrough myself!

SA Chris · May 05, 2011, 11:45:44 am

Nice one, some good ticks there. Would love to do SSA especially.

AndyR · May 05, 2011, 05:10:51 pm

Quote from: pyrosis on May 05, 2011, 11:17:58 am

My goal this spring had been 2x7A, one on granite on which I'm weak, and one on tuff on which I am strong. In feb I had managed to send Karma (7A, tuff), my first and only 7A for the year.

Untill last week

Last two weeks I've managed...

Seven Spanish Angels 7A (granite)
Bowling Pin Sit 7A (granite)
The Orgasm 7A (tuff)
The Hulk 7A (tuff)
and DIsco Diva 7B (tuff) YYFY!!!

I'd say I passed the goal!! Feels so good to finally break through a plateau. I feel as strong as I ever have. Will be interesting to see how tomorrows Buttermilking will go.... Looking for 7A+ now, High Plains Drifter?

Good work!

Was out at the Buttermilks yesterday morning and finally managed Green Wall Centre - old school V6 crimping - YYFY!

pyrosis · May 05, 2011, 07:38:49 pm

Good Job on the Green Wall! I can't figure that thing out! You up there today? Maybe I will run into you!

-Tavis

AndyR · May 06, 2011, 05:43:54 am

Quote from: pyrosis on May 05, 2011, 07:38:49 pm

Good Job on the Green Wall! I can't figure that thing out! You up there today? Maybe I will run into you!

-Tavis

Just been up there this evening and did Seven Spanish Angels - nice problem!
Enjoy the sun and low humidity - I'm heading back to Vegas and then home to Vancouver.

pyrosis · May 06, 2011, 06:01:02 am

Safe travels! Another beautiful day in the Buttermilk today. Flowers and snakes everywhere

Nibile · May 07, 2011, 09:14:54 am

I'm here under the roof extension project. Will it go?

Baldy · May 07, 2011, 11:04:35 am

pull out the guns and go for it.

tomtom · May 07, 2011, 11:08:50 am

Quote from: Nibile on May 07, 2011, 09:14:54 am

I'm here under the roof extension project. Will it go?

YES! GO Lore!

andy popp · May 07, 2011, 11:42:00 am

We need a live news feed.

fatdoc · May 07, 2011, 02:43:01 pm

nothing harder than 6b in font for me this year... climbed 6 days in a row, with the assistance of ibuprofen and antihydral.

brilliant gite

brilliant food

brilliant family holiday

finally done a whole blue circuit in it,s entirity... Guichot... got truly beasted by the red circuit there... it was rather hot I have to say...and was really scared on the 6s to the right of the 8a.... pulled over a 6b with 4 spotters whimpering!!

Ackbar · May 08, 2011, 10:36:12 am

YYFY - The other week I visited for the first time a really great bouldering spot near to my home
NNFN - Then the next time I went, the farmer had smeared all the holds in cow shit (it happens in Austria)
YYFY - Dejected from this, I then found another boulder problem which I decided was going to become a long term project
NNFN - As it is about 3 font grades above my current standard I quickly screwed my fingers up
YYFY - The a friend took me to a place where there are hundreds of nice boulders scattered through the forest
NNFN - But I couldn't climb anything as my fingers were still screwed
YYFY - But we then met some guys who had been climbing in England and said they had gone to have a look at Hubble
NNFN - Then they said, "you know, Hubble, the Jerry Moffatt route"

:-D

Fiend · May 09, 2011, 10:19:23 am

There's winter climbing in camel-land?? :O

AndyR · May 11, 2011, 10:59:19 pm

Quote from: thesiger on May 09, 2011, 07:11:24 am

(On the NNFN side, this has come at the expense of quitting work this summer and moving full-time to Squamish but that is definite for next year, in fact the wife is now saying that we can leave as early as next spring...

Yeah yeah - I'll believe it when I see it!

butterworthtom · May 11, 2011, 11:54:35 pm

Does that mean no Squamish this Summer then Toby?

AndyR · May 12, 2011, 06:26:45 am

Quote from: butterworthtom on May 11, 2011, 11:54:35 pm

Does that mean no Squamish this Summer then Toby?

You coming out this summer Tom? Drop me a line if you want a spot...

AndyR · May 12, 2011, 06:32:27 am

Quote from: thesiger on May 12, 2011, 05:25:52 am

Quote from: AndyR on May 11, 2011, 10:59:19 pm
Quote from: thesiger on May 09, 2011, 07:11:24 am

(On the NNFN side, this has come at the expense of quitting work this summer and moving full-time to Squamish but that is definite for next year, in fact the wife is now saying that we can leave as early as next spring...
Yeah yeah - I'll believe it when I see it!

It will happen, really, honest. The wife is now on board and making various bourgeois/ elitist Vancouver schooling plans for Thesiger Jr from 2012 which should be irrreversible.

Baldy · May 14, 2011, 01:57:03 am

managed to get up after 4 hours sleep and sneak in a short sharp session in UCR while the centre was empty - it is actually quite pleasant when no one is around...
Finger protested but still did a (ucr) 6c lead!
Hoorah!

Then went home, slept, had a shower and went to the library for more work!

robertostallioni · May 14, 2011, 07:18:40 am

Back to the library?

Thast more FB than YYFY.

Maybe YYFFS?