[Dr T]

Second day in the forest, unfortunately Jr T is a little under the weather and whingy to the max - even Gruffalo hunting didn't cheer him up  . Anyways got a couple of nice things at Gorge aux Chats, Opéra Tchétchène (7a+) (scary top out), Plats de Saison (7a/7a+) and Sa Pelle au Logis (7a) didn't get around to playing on Pokemon, next time (so again a minor yyfy)... Here's hoping for a better night sleep and a nice rest day tomorrow making sand castles at 91....

[Grubes]

After tearing my rotar cuff near the of last year and no having time to train properly I managed to push my sports in el chorro.

I climb fr6b after going Bolt to bolt on the 2nd red point attempt. After a stupid fuck up on the first attempt. YYFY now time to get back to North wales and do the 6b+ in failed on my last trip

Low grades but am happy

[ducko]

gave myself the target of climbing 'slim' v7 in split infinity by the end of the summer, got it done today so im super happy maybe able too get something a little harder done! 

[Nibile]

it's been a while since I last posted here, and even if sometimes I feel like keeping it all for myself, then I think that a shared happiness is a bigger happiness.
so, here are the problems I did up there:
- Zippy's Traverse
- Captain Hook
- Brad Pit (major YYFY)
- Rock Atrocity (major YYFY)
- Reverse Banana Direct
- The Terrace (unexpected YYFY)
- Bus Stop (unexpected YYFY)

I spare you the details about the Beastmaker session at the gym in L'pool.
I am very very YYFYed.

[cheque]

Nice work!

[Dr T]

it's been a while since I last posted here, and even if sometimes I feel like keeping it all for myself, then I think that a shared happiness is a bigger happiness.
so, here are the problems I did up there:
- Zippy's Traverse
- Captain Hook
- Brad Pit (major YYFY)
- Rock Atrocity (major YYFY)
- Reverse Banana Direct
- The Terrace (unexpected YYFY)
- Bus Stop (unexpected YYFY)

I spare you the details about the Beastmaker session at the gym in L'pool.
I am very very YYFYed.

all good my beast-like Italian friend, a tick-list that I am very jealous of of course....
BUT the real question is what about Malc's One Armer??

[Nibile]

ahah!!!
I failed on that one!!! I tried it, left and right handed, and for an instant I left Mother Earth... but I couldn't pull more!!!
that's one hard move.
it started like a joke, to keep me psyched during the injury, then it turned into something more serious... must be back!!!

[SA Chris]

Did you not make a mould of the hold to take home and train on?

Good ticklist mate!

What is reverse banana direct btw? Some wierd version I'm not aware of?

[nai]

What is reverse banana direct btw? Some wierd version I'm not aware of?

This I would imagine:

From jugs on the left arete, traverse into Banana Finger Direct, then reverse the Banana Finger traverse

http://peakbouldering.info/problems/466

[Drew]

There's two possibilities. Once you've done the move up to the crimp, you can either reverse the original traverse, or finish up the original.

[SA Chris]

That link is to Banana Reverse, which I know of.

Which of the two options you describe is referred to as Banana Reverse Direct then Drew?

[Richie Crouch]

It was the traverse L-R from jugs to finish up banana Finger direct. 7aish?

Great ticklist Lore! Shame you couldn't stay and come to the Bowderstone yesterday and enjoyed trying to overcrimp/crush on wet holds!

Will be in touch about Switzerland 

[Dr T]

Could have been a NNFN day today as I collected a split tip and a possibly broken toe to add the badly bruised heal from a couple of days ago... 
But it was a YYFY when looked at in the round - got Retour aux Sources (7a), Les Sabots d'Hélène (7a/7a+) and Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7a) all of which went reasonably quickly.   
Got shut down on Pince-Toi (7a+) but it's always good to have something in mind for next time....
Well back to the UK tomorrow but only about 6 weeks 'til the next trip 

[Duma]

Nice, Retour aux Sources is ace isn't it?

[Resonate]

funny how everyone does the same lines at 95.2
and how noone ever does miss KGB...

very impressed with the climbing quality there
roll on march...!

[Duma]

funny how everyone does the same lines at 95.2
and how noone ever does miss KGB...

very impressed with the climbing quality there
roll on march...!

Thats because Miss KGB is nails! It's not for lack of trying!
And I did RaS in 200andfucking4 (HALAM) - you're all just riding my coat tails!

[lukeyboy]

Thats because Miss KGB is nails! It's not for lack of trying!

I'm glad it's not just me 

[Jaspersharpe]

2004!? Is that supposed to be old skool?  *old man smiley* 

Miss KGB looks fucking nails. Mister Proper next to it is good though.

[Duma]

Well, it was January 2004...

[galpinos]

Feels a bit weird blowing my own trumpet (and it's not climbing related) but am pretty pleased so:

Winter: Tick some of the classic Vs from Cold Climbs. Ski at least two gullies on the tick list

Skied Aladdin's Couloir and Jacob's Ladder on Friday. So chuffed. Aladdin's was great, and quite easy, but Jacob's was pretty hairy so trailed a rope going over the cornice as I was the guinea pig. In reality it was fine though I was a bit scared making that first turn.

(I tried to maintain my UKB credentials by having a smug air of superiority as I skied down Aladdin's past multiple pairs of climbers all roped up)

[joeisidle]

After many wet days spent on the orme a major YYFY happened when left wall traverse finally got done in its entirety. Now if only right wall would dry out so I could try something new...

[Falling Down]

Feels a bit weird blowing my own trumpet (and it's not climbing related) but am pretty pleased so:

Winter: Tick some of the classic Vs from Cold Climbs. Ski at least two gullies on the tick list

Skied Aladdin's Couloir and Jacob's Ladder on Friday. So chuffed. Aladdin's was great, and quite easy, but Jacob's was pretty hairy so trailed a rope going over the cornice as I was the guinea pig. In reality it was fine though I was a bit scared making that first turn.

(I tried to maintain my UKB credentials by having a smug air of superiority as I skied down Aladdin's past multiple pairs of climbers all roped up)

I hope there's a thread on UKC moaning about you!

[SA Chris]

Skied Aladdin's Couloir and Jacob's Ladder on Friday. So chuffed. Aladdin's was great, and quite easy, but Jacob's was pretty hairy so trailed a rope going over the cornice as I was the guinea pig. In reality it was fine though I was a bit scared making that first turn.

Nice one. Friday was the day, mates went up to do them on Sunday but weather was wank. Shout if you fancy any more, there's a couple in Glencoe I have my eyes on, and Black Spout on Lochnagar is my goal for the year. The walk might make you cry though.

[lagerstarfish]

 Jacob's was pretty hairy so trailed a rope going over the cornice as I was the guinea pig. In reality it was fine though I was a bit scared making that first turn.

(I tried to maintain my UKB credentials by having a smug air of superiority as I skied down Aladdin's past multiple pairs of climbers all roped up)

Good effort on doing the top of Jacob's. I've bottled out of the cornice every time.

I got a lot of abuse shouted at me on one decent of Alladin's - even though the only other people there were still on the snowslope at the bottom and so not in my fall line.

[smugperior] I got more abuse from them as I overtook them climbing back up again - if either of you are reading this forum please note that I have not collided with any climbers getting in the way of my fun, despite spending a lot of time sliding down things that some people crawl up; so you were wrong weren't you [/smugperior]

[GCW]

They probably were just shouting and screaming as they thought there was a Yeti on the loose.