Just back from the Cliff... Got Underhand done It was a bit of a battle - I got the hard move, followed by the lunge to the lip (static) first time (not done it before) but wasnt expecting to do it, so hadn't done the starting moves. Then on subsequent attempts I kept screwing up by trying to do the lip move static, nearly catching it then dragging feet/dabbing etc..... It went with a lunge on the final go of the day as the sun had just set. Thanks loads to Uptown and his friend for encouragement and spotting up the final bit.So thats the first 7B+ done... now to find me a 7C
Sort of climbing related ...... Received my tax rebate yesterday and now I can afford my trip to font in may ......
Moving to Leeds in August!Gritstone! Limestone!YYFY!
was is this good
Today was a good day, one 7a, one 7a+, one 7b, one 7b+, one 7c. Days like these don't come that often!
It's the line round the corner to the right of Gypsy - break, undercuts, aforementioned creaky flake, reach over left to the niche at the top of Gypsy, match and then top out.Think it gets E3 6b in old money, we had a good few pads which made (repeatedly for me) falling off from the reach move a lot more bearable!
Quote from: tommytwotone on February 13, 2011, 03:10:01 pmIt's the line round the corner to the right of Gypsy - break, undercuts, aforementioned creaky flake, reach over left to the niche at the top of Gypsy, match and then top out.Think it gets E3 6b in old money, we had a good few pads which made (repeatedly for me) falling off from the reach move a lot more bearable!Never seen that, nice one. I need to top out the gypsy but I've been told it was scrittly too (think it was you tom funnily enough) so never gave it the concerted effort it deserves.
I think the top out of The Gypsy is one of those things that everyone but beasts (they know who they are, the swines) does once and doesn't run back to in a hurry.
Quote from: willackers on February 11, 2011, 08:53:51 amMoving to Leeds in August!Gritstone! Limestone!YYFY! Sweet Will - I'll be super keen to hook up with you when you're here.The only keen Yorkshire climbers I know don't live in Yorkshire. Where in Leeds are you moving to?
E3 6b = highball Font 6c ish?
Quote from: tommytwotone on February 13, 2011, 07:54:02 pmE3 6b = highball Font 6c ish?I think the start gets about V3 doesn't it? Its not harder above that and pump doesn't really factor so probably about the same/a smidgen harder than the start to the break?