[Robl]

Just back from the Cliff... Got Underhand done

It was a bit of a battle - I got the hard move, followed by the lunge to the lip (static) first time  (not done it before) but wasnt expecting to do it, so hadn't done the starting moves. Then on subsequent attempts I kept screwing up by trying to do the lip move static, nearly catching it then dragging feet/dabbing etc..... It went with a lunge on the final go of the day as the sun had just set. Thanks loads to Uptown and his friend for encouragement and spotting up the final bit.

So thats the first 7B+ done... now to find me a 7C 

 

Well done TT... suppose the extension is the logical step at 7c... and not any harder then underhand IMO. 

[lagerstarfish]

Sort of climbing related ...... Received my tax rebate yesterday and now I can afford my trip to font in may  ......

Can you lend me a couple of grand ?

at Big Society repayment terms, obviously

[willackers]

Moving to Leeds in August!

Gritstone! Limestone!

YYFY!

[uptown]

Moving to Leeds in August!

Gritstone! Limestone!

YYFY!

 
Sweet Will - I'll be super keen to hook up with you when you're here.
The only keen Yorkshire climbers I know don't live in Yorkshire. Where in Leeds are you moving to?

[nik at work]

Tod is in Yorkshire, just.

[al123]

got the bad lip problem last nite at curbar!! my third 7 if you can count trackside

[205Chris]

After what feels like an eternity of climbing like a world class muppet I hauled myself up Flatworld today.

Turned out to be a stunning day too, saw an awesome rainbow over the Eaglestone on the walk back.

[Jim]

was is this good

[205Chris]

was is this good

The one i saw was a double rainbow, similar to that one in fact but without the annoying voice over commentary.

[andy_e]

Today was a good day, one 7a, one 7a+, one 7b, one 7b+, one 7c. Days like these don't come that often!

[Andy F]

Today was a good day, one 7a, one 7a+, one 7b, one 7b+, one 7c. Days like these don't come that often!

They do if it's a mileage day at Malham   

[tommytwotone]

More Cliff YYFY - after highballing Gypus yesterday, I have finally become a man in the eyes of the Almscliff gods: I did the topout of the Virgin!

I have done Gypsy in the past, but as it was snowing when I got the break I took the "match and drop" option.

Having never done the topout, that ascent has always had a slight cloud over it in my own mind - a bit like Sir Geoffrey's thing about asterisks next to centuries scored against Bangladesh...as of yesterday those doubts have been set to rest.

Gypus makes a brilliant highball with a few pads and spotters under you, albeit with flake being a touch creaky...would highly advise anyone to get on it!

[tomtom]

Effort - that topout looks well scrittly.... whats Gypus??

[tommytwotone]

It's the line round the corner to the right of Gypsy - break, undercuts, aforementioned creaky flake, reach over left to the niche at the top of Gypsy, match and then top out.

Think it gets E3 6b in old money, we had a good few pads which made (repeatedly for me) falling off from the reach move a lot more bearable!

[Yoof]

Twin cam at Stanage My first hardish move on a route and father now understands that not everything above E3 means "death". Woop woop! hard trad here I come!
Also my ankle (which I destroyed on boxing day) is nearly as flexible as ever. 

[Wood FT]

It's the line round the corner to the right of Gypsy - break, undercuts, aforementioned creaky flake, reach over left to the niche at the top of Gypsy, match and then top out.

Think it gets E3 6b in old money, we had a good few pads which made (repeatedly for me) falling off from the reach move a lot more bearable!

Never seen that, nice one. I need to top out the gypsy  but I've been told it was scrittly too (think it was you tom funnily enough) so never gave it the concerted effort it deserves.

[Will Hunt]

I think the top out of The Gypsy is one of those things that everyone but beasts (they know who they are, the swines) does once and doesn't run back to in a hurry. You get all scrunched up in this niche and it feels off balance and that if you do fall you'll fall onto you back/head. Bringing the right hand over and groping for something positive is pretty memorable, but not in a good way. Well done TTT!

[tomtom]

It's the line round the corner to the right of Gypsy - break, undercuts, aforementioned creaky flake, reach over left to the niche at the top of Gypsy, match and then top out.

Think it gets E3 6b in old money, we had a good few pads which made (repeatedly for me) falling off from the reach move a lot more bearable!

Never seen that, nice one. I need to top out the gypsy  but I've been told it was scrittly too (think it was you tom funnily enough) so never gave it the concerted effort it deserves.

  yup probably me! I was there a couple of years back when someone spent ages on the top out -0 up and down up and down.. they seemed to brush loads of sand and choss down! Its something I 'need' to do, just to say I've done it! Effort TTT

[webbo]

I think the top out of The Gypsy is one of those things that everyone but beasts (they know who they are, the swines) does once and doesn't run back to in a hurry. 

i once did this as my 31st route of vs and above in a day.
oohhh look at me.

[tommytwotone]

Cheers all, was completely done after getting off (which I'd forgotten was a bit of a mission as well!) and couldn't climb anything!

I think the top out of The Gypsy is one of those things that everyone but beasts (they know who they are, the swines) does once and doesn't run back to in a hurry.

Having done it, I reckon I will probably carry on topping those problems out - think half the scariness is the element of the unknown, and I'm certainly not going to forget it in a hurry!

So what do the great and the good reckon for a sensible conversion then? E3 6b = highball Font 6c ish?

[willackers]

Moving to Leeds in August!

Gritstone! Limestone!

YYFY!

 
Sweet Will - I'll be super keen to hook up with you when you're here.
The only keen Yorkshire climbers I know don't live in Yorkshire. Where in Leeds are you moving to?

Look forward to getting out as much as possible, nice one! 

Not sure where we're going to live exactly, just started looking around for somewhere.

[SA Chris]

Randomly, found "A rock-climber's guide to Northumberland", the 1964 edition in the local Oxfam shop. I walked past and it was in the window. In VGC too - cover scuffed, but pages unmarked inside.

Its ace - Bowden get a mention in the "Other crags" section at the back; "Bowden Doors has several good routes and considerable room for more" is all it gets.

[Will Hunt]

E3 6b = highball Font 6c ish?

I think the start gets about V3 doesn't it? Its not harder above that and pump doesn't really factor so probably about the same/a smidgen harder than the start to the break?

[tommytwotone]

E3 6b = highball Font 6c ish?

I think the start gets about V3 doesn't it? Its not harder above that and pump doesn't really factor so probably about the same/a smidgen harder than the start to the break?

Sorry, just re-read my post and realised it's not very clear - I was on about Gypus, not Gypsy, the former of which doesn't seem to be described in any of the Yorkshire bouldering guides.

I'd say that V5 would be about right, but then again if you're tall then that reach out left is far easier - my mate pissed it and he's 6 foot-ish.

[tesla]

Minor YYFY: After living in California for a year someone finally took me out surfing. Loved it so much I went back out the next day, and even bought a wetsuit. Where has this been all my life? Falling Down - now I know why you get so excited about it :-)