YYFY!!! (Read 2103163 times)

erm, sam · June 24, 2010, 09:31:35 am

Last night I had my(long overdue) first visit to the Churnet. What a nice place. I was very impressed by Wrights Rock and had a great session. Can't wait to go back.

Nibile · June 25, 2010, 03:07:33 pm

not exactly climbing, but climbing related nonetheless.
I just received an email from the Italian editor of Big Ron's book, and it seems I won the contract for the Italian translation.
"Ronaldo Fossetti", innit?

Richie Crouch · June 25, 2010, 03:20:20 pm

Siena's new giganticly handed goalkeeper?

Nice one Lore.

grimer · June 25, 2010, 04:35:25 pm

Quote from: Nibile on June 25, 2010, 03:07:33 pm

not exactly climbing, but climbing related nonetheless.
I just received an email from the Italian editor of Big Ron's book, and it seems I won the contract for the Italian translation.
"Ronaldo Fossetti", innit?

Last year at Arco Rockmaster I met Gio, the Italian translator of the Jerry book. He was a really nice guy.

But i asked him about translating it and he said,

"Yes, it was good, but for me... the language was a bit plain... maybe even boring. So i spice it up to make it a more interesting book."

I almost wet myself

Nibile · June 25, 2010, 04:54:30 pm

ah ah!!!
I know Giovanni very well, he lives in my hometown and we've been climbing together many times. he's lived in Yorkshire for a while. he's a nice guy 'n all, but sometimes he can say something that lets you completely shocked.

moose · June 28, 2010, 05:54:28 pm

Another YYFY! weekend.

As a hedge against the inevitable football debacle, I endured a sweaty Sunday morning at Ilkley and bagged The Chariots of Fire Eliminate (supposedly f7b+). It's taken a few sessions and far too many dropped finishing moves so I'm rather chuffed to finally get it (gets very bunched for a gangle-creature). Worth a look for other fans of the gritstone, eliminate arse-drag genre - stays dry and is out of the sun. Unfortunately, I now don't have any other projects that stand a chance of being done during sunny weather. Unless anyones got beta for the Calf Traverse - I've never been able to fathom a single move of that.

Also, on Saturday had a nice spot of tradding at Curbar. Elder Crack was the highlight: energetic flailing up an off-width being just the thing for a sweltering day when you don't have any giant cams.... still who can resist a Hard Rock tick. Soyuz and The Bear Hunter were also nice. The latter is an E1ish face climb half-way to Froggat: lovely technical moves and highly recommended (not to be confused with the Beer Hunter).

Peanuts · June 30, 2010, 10:30:03 am

Just to record my own YYFY moment for the year so far. I can finally report that afer weeks of falling off the same move, I have finnaly completed 'Chimes' at the tor. No more frigging Knee pads, no more bastard toe-heel locks and no more trying to hang slopers in 30 degree heat ...YYFY

tc · July 01, 2010, 08:52:34 pm

Quote from: Nibile on June 25, 2010, 03:07:33 pm

not exactly climbing, but climbing related nonetheless.
I just received an email from the Italian editor of Big Ron's book, and it seems I won the contract for the Italian translation.
"Ronaldo Fossetti", innit?

Congratulations and welcome to the fellowship! Make sure they pay you well.

Johnny Brown · July 02, 2010, 10:46:38 am

Bagged my first 8a yesterday - The Ogre.

Let the downgrading begin.

tomtom · July 02, 2010, 10:50:40 am

Quote from: Johnny Brown on July 02, 2010, 10:46:38 am

Bagged my first 8a yesterday - The Ogre.

Let the downgrading begin.

effort sir.

slackline · July 02, 2010, 10:53:59 am

Good effort JB, got to be pleased with that

Doylo · July 02, 2010, 11:06:37 am

nice one!

uptown · July 02, 2010, 11:07:21 am

Well done JB, what's next then?

Adam Lincoln · July 02, 2010, 11:11:08 am

Quote from: uptown on July 02, 2010, 11:07:21 am

Well done JB, what's next then?

Powerplant i reckon.

T_B · July 02, 2010, 11:17:55 am

Nice one. Did you do the final hard move off the crappy sidepull out left, or could you do it off the poorer undercuts to the left and a right drop knee / windmill?

Fiend · July 02, 2010, 11:19:43 am

Quote from: Johnny Brown on July 01, 2010, 12:16:44 pm

I had forgotten folk dangle around on something far beyond them and then call it 'going climbing'.

Nice one Ron2

Bonjoy · July 02, 2010, 01:09:19 pm

Effort beast. Seemed rock solid 8a for all but lanksters to me.

Nigel · July 02, 2010, 01:20:43 pm

Definately mid-7c+. Back around Long.

Nigel · July 02, 2010, 01:37:27 pm

P.S. only joking. 8a and made it look easy. Bon effort.

Soon to be the Cornice show pony by all accounts...

uptown · July 02, 2010, 02:57:18 pm

Quote from: Nigel on July 02, 2010, 01:37:27 pm

Soon to be the Cornice show pony by all accounts...

Good, I think his diamond footwork will excel there, and I'll finally get to watch the enigma.
Did you get any photos of The Ogre Adam? I imagine it looks very good through a lens?

Johnny Brown · July 02, 2010, 10:01:41 pm

Quote

Did you do the final hard move off the crappy sidepull out left, or could you do it off the poorer undercuts to the left and a right drop knee / windmill?

The main problem was I couldn't reach off the good footholds, so I used the high left sidepull to bump my right foot up onto a tiny nubbin, then went again with the left hand.

Quote

Did you get any photos of The Ogre Adam? I imagine it looks very good through a lens?

Not yet, but I agree. Psyched to get back with the camera. Trying to get some good stuff for the forthcoming guide.

Quote

what's next then?

Sitting on laurels for a while. Then one of the other 8s I reckon - still got E8, VIII, M8 and 8000m to go.

Monolith · July 05, 2010, 12:12:45 pm

Hopefully these YYFY's become climbing related between now and late September but I got my results just in and am sitting on 65% for 2nd year. A little step on the gas can hopefully nudge me into first territory which I desperately want. Was super happy with 78% for Urban Studies which I think was the highest mark in the year and told in my feedback the book review was worth publishing. End of boring academia report spiel. Time for summer of crush!!!

T_B · July 09, 2010, 08:40:42 am

YYFY! Did Ben's Roof last night

There have been times in the past when I couldn't imagine being able to hold that crimp. Finally worked out the swing-your-feet-across move last week then watched a few of the on-line vids to get beta on further footwork trickery. Add a knee pad into the mix and hey presto! 3 weeks till Rocklands... just need to remain uninjured

Neil F · July 09, 2010, 12:14:24 pm

Congratulations Tom - brilliant effort....

.... (btw, what is Ben's Roof?).

Neil

Dr T · July 09, 2010, 07:00:53 pm

After a long run into the end of term, injury and tiredness I played on the serious stuff today (the 50 deg board) instead of just pottering around on the bouldering wall at school (which admittedly does have problems up to 7b)

Anyways discovered that whilst the technique is the and the fingers are ok I have basically become weak...

Might sound a weird revelation for a YYFY thread but it has galvenised my summer break plans - no lazing about in bed, up with the nipper, breakfast and out to the board before the temperature gets ridiculous....

That and less football watching snacks now that the world cup is coming to an end