[Steamboat Stello]

Incroyable! Wheres this place been hiding! Looks like it might be quite sheltered in sunnier conditions. Whats the best weather for a visit?

[andy popp]

Unfortunately it seems to get sun all day and is very sheltered from the wind - combined with a thin, just-off vertical face style (hence difficulty in trying my project, which has some very dirty crimping). So not now basically. Spring and autumn; there are seepage points that need to dry back after the winter.

A few points now the cat is out of the bag. Locals seem to have a good opinion of climbers thanks in no small part to the careful diplomacy of people like  Martin Boysen and Tom Leppert who have been quietly enjoying the crag for literally decades. The woods are now owned and maintained by a trust of local people (who stepped in when it looked like developers were going to buy the woods) who have invested a lot of time and effort in securing funding for the purchase, clearing undergrowth, fencing off the top of the main quarry, installing a bench and table at the entrance to woods etc. The woods are quiet and unspoilt and enjoyed by many locals, esp. dog walkers. So its important we behave well here - basic normal etiquette. In particular:

- its common to meet walkers on the steep, narrow and often blind lane up to the woods; drive slowly
- park sensibly
- don't tie ropes to or otherwise damage the fences installed round the top of the quarry; they are there to stop children, dogs etc. falling
- you are pretty hidden when in the quarry but loud whoops of victory, cursing etc would be heard by anyone walking in the woods

Sorry to sound preachy. Ben and I may be there this evening

[BenF]

Well said Andy re: the woodland.  I'd add to this that the trust are generally very keen to see climbers using the quarry, as long as we look after the place.  They have (and continue to) put a lot of work into raising fundsd to buy the place and then clearing the place up, with the intention of it being used by a range of different users (it helps the trust with funding applications if they can demonstrate that different groups use the wood).  Only last week I met up with some of the trust who were keen to know if they can make it even better for climbing - this could include removing dying trees and rubbish.  The cleared area with the log seats is intended as an "outdoor classroom" and groups from my school have already used the wood for short visits. 

[fatneck]

It really is a lovely spot and t'would be a shame if access were to be jeopardised by foolish behaviour. Glad the cat's out of the bag! Good work to all involved 

[SpanishJuan]

Bugger, I went there a few months ago and thought how nice it was to have a peaceful crag mainly to myself and the missus. oh well, at least I got to enjoy the "easy arêtes" without uber wads  at my flailing ... once

[BenF]

Bugger, I went there a few months ago and thought how nice it was to have a peaceful crag mainly to myself and the missus.

Don't worry, I doubt it'll ever be that busy.  I think it will remain pretty esoteric as it's out of people's way and not really the kind of crag people tend to boulder at these days (ie it's not grit or the cave).

[Will Hunt]

Do all the lines in the small quarry top out? Surely trad grades are applied? How hard are they generally? Much potential at amenable grades?

[SpanishJuan]

Don't worry, I doubt it'll ever be that busy.  I think it will remain pretty esoteric as it's out of people's way and not really the kind of crag people tend to boulder at these days (ie it's not grit or the cave).

but as its only about 1/4 the size of Pex  (ish..) it would easily fill up

[andy popp]

Do all the lines in the small quarry top out? Surely trad grades are applied? How hard are they generally? Much potential at amenable grades?

The line Ben is on in the photo from the 'small' quarry (less extensive but higher) doesn't top out beacause its loose as hell up top at that point - you can go to either the first or the second diagonal. The feint rib left of him leading to the end of the diagonal does the same - really good problem at maybe V5/6. Out of shot left again the wall is about 30' but has a good topout, this contains a 'V4' and a 'V6'. Generally, Harmers excels at V0 - V6/7

Mods, maybe this should be split off in to a new thread (starting with Ben's post with the pictures) in one of the baby boards - topos or beta?

[BenF]

What Andy says, except that the lines in the small quarry that finish on the loose stuff are probably best topping out using a hanging rope rather than down climbing or jumping off.  Much more satisfying I'd say.  The high lines that finish on more solid stuff are probably best considered as very highball problems.  Don't fall off from the top!

We've given everything bouldering grades so far and to be honest it's only a few lines in the small quarry that stretch this concept really.  For consistency and the fact that they are still only about 6-7 metres high, I think they should be left with boulder grades.  One look should tell anyone thinking of climbing them that they're a bit high to be jumping off from high up.  Harmers, and other local venues like Frodsham, are bouldering venues and within the broad church of bouldering there are always going to be some very high problems best suited to a soloing mentality.  To give these unprotected problems an E grade seems a bit odd to me.  They're not actually that high, they have good landings, a couple of pads make them pretty safe to a certain extent, and if people don't fancy soloing these few really high lines; leave them alone, or top-rope them like you would at Pex.


However, I welcome your thoughts...

[Pantontino]

Is the low level traverse any good? I'm wondering about the likelihood that I'll end up dropping in on spec without a pad while driving home from a family visit in England (plus, I love those forearm melting Brownstones/West Vale style crabathons).

[Mike Tyson]

Fair play chaps, looks most excellent 

[Pantontino]

Now that you've mentioned Tom leppert this makes a lot more sense. On a trip to Pabbay years ago, Tom teased me with tales of various secret sandstone crags. I could never quite tell if he was just bulling, and no matter how hard I pushed he wouldn't say where they were. Love to know about the other places too, especially after seeing the obvious quality of this venue.

[andy popp]

Is the low level traverse any good? I'm wondering about the likelihood that I'll end up dropping in on spec without a pad while driving home from a family visit in England (plus, I love those forearm melting Brownstones/West Vale style crabathons).

Do you mean today Simon? Because if so I could meet you there. Yes, there is a low level traverse that looks good in sections.

[Tris]

Mods, maybe this should be split off in to a new thread (starting with Ben's post with the pictures) in one of the baby boards - topos or beta?

Andy - am I ok to add the details to the Cheshire Wiki? I have pm'd you.

Cheers

[davej]

Great spot climbed there  alot with friends 20+ years ago!!!!!

[BenF]

Great spot climbed there  alot with friends 20+ years ago!!!!!

I figured you must have climbed there back in the day.  Did you do much in the smaller quarry?

[davej]

no just the main one i think!!! carnt  remember much we climbed all the aretes  and some wall routes but the most of these i think had been climbed before . One of the aretes was named 'demon of the seamen'!!!! as it was painted on the rock. I think mike collins and tom jones probably climbed there. dave 

[Pantontino]

Is the low level traverse any good? I'm wondering about the likelihood that I'll end up dropping in on spec without a pad while driving home from a family visit in England (plus, I love those forearm melting Brownstones/West Vale style crabathons).

Do you mean today Simon? Because if so I could meet you there. Yes, there is a low level traverse that looks good in sections.

Not today, I'm afraid. Off up the Pass routing.

[BenF]

Simon, give me a shout too if you fancy meeting up at Harmer's.  If you're pad-less, I'll have enough to go around.

[chriss]

Could be in NNFN, but it's more appropriate here.

Just finishing my 3 month stay in Melbourne, in that time I  have had some fucking ace sessions bouldering in the Grampians. This place really deserves the hype and I may not crush big numbers, but it ranks up there as one of the best places in the word for problem quality & quantity & for over all atmosphere.

Anyone who is thinking of a trip over here won't be disappointed. 

[moose]

Some further shufflings in the direction of recovery: recently returned from a long weekend in the Peak -  very tired but with a happily diminished tick list...

Friday saw me at Raven Torr where, in the culmination of a frankly embarrassing number of sessions, I finally managed Weedkiller Traverse.  Odd how easy it felt on the final go....  As if that wasn't enough, Basher's Problem and Rattle and Hump Start were also done - two problems that had given me almost as much angst.  Sheer madness ... I'm sure to pay for my good fortune wherewhere along the line.  Not even England's abject display against Algeria could dampen my spirits - I sat there grinning like a fool in the revealed truth of just how hard and far you can move off a pitiful smear!  Any ideas for future Raven projects by the way - I need reasons to return.

After that it was a couple of days of trad.  Nothing exceptional gradewise but I did some routes that I'd always wanted to do.  Highlights were Hawkwing, Commander Energy and Wombat at the Roaches and  Desperation and Black Hawk Bastion at Stanage.  All very good in their varied ways.

[Mike Tyson]

Good work Moose! 

[dave]

Nice one word. Get on out of my tree start, or undercut-to-sloper next.

[chillax]

Just scored an unused pair of V10's for £35. Miracles do happen!