[duncan]

... duncan seems to be succeeding on his goal of spending his <big number> birthday high on the Salathe ... remarkably also with a woman who is not his wife. As far as I can tell from elcapreport they would have topped out by now but are waiting out numerous rapped-in Sponsored Hero's clogging up the headwall cracks

Thanks!  Mostly true.  The stately progress was entirely down to lack of fitness and ability.  El Cap report was a touch pessimistic as we, gloriously, had the route to ourselves the entire time except for a rest day we took on The Block ledge which was a bit mad (we were passed by two parties going up, one rapping down and some sponsored heroes going up and then back down).  A real YYFY moment as it was a very long-held ambition. 

Freerider and El Corazon are now trade routes getting regular ascents this spring.  There is potential for many more free routes on El Cap. with a number of people working on projects (and huge potential elsewhere in the valley).  Where are the good British climbers?!

[Will Hunt]

Black Cuillin Ridge Traverse in 12hrs 20mins 

[slackline]

Good work Will, bet that was a great day out

[fiveknuckle21]

Things are starting to look up! I managed to tick off Powerband and Powerhumps in the same session on Friday and after a night in the cave had an ascent of Lou Ferrino in the bag before 9am on Sunday. YYFY!

[Johnny Brown]

Black Cuillin Ridge Traverse in 12hrs 20mins

Road to road or top to top? Good effort either way, its eluded me so far.

[Doylo]

after a night in the cave had an ascent of Lou Ferrino in the bag before 9am on Sunday. YYFY!

Jeez! Maybe the earliest ever ascent, i take it the sun wasn't shining!

[Will Hunt]

Black Cuillin Ridge Traverse in 12hrs 20mins

Road to road or top to top? Good effort either way, its eluded me so far.

Cheers. That was top to top.

Left Glenbrittle at 3. GB for 5:20. Led the TD Gap and King's Chimney and Naismith's and soloed everything else.

The annoying thing is is that I know I could take hours off that with good conditions again and am now itching to get back there!

Some friends did it the same day and are much more confident at soloing than I and they soloed the lot. Downclimbing the In Pinn et al! I think knowing that I could solo all the up bits and just take an ab rope the time would come down but on first appearance the rock pitches all look nails!

[Johnny Brown]

You're always going to make routefinding errors. Making the Slig for last orders is the only time limit that matters. Have soloed all of it but the TD gap, though I'm not sure I'd ever leave the rope behind.  Getting me psyched for another crack at it now...

[GCW]

Yeah, me too.  Tried once a few years back and got rained off at the TD.  Very annoyed

[Andy B]

Some friends did it the same day and are much more confident at soloing than I and they soloed the lot. Downclimbing the In Pinn et al!

Assuming you've got a rope for getting into the TD Gap, then I would have thought it would be quicker to ab off the back of the In Pin than down climb it anyway?

[iain]

Going to try doing the Cuillin traverse in a day next month, but given that it's our first time on it I'm not really expecting to make it. Any tips on making it more likely, like the real problem areas with route finding or parts where it's worth taking an easy line rather than stay true to the ridge?

[Johnny Brown]

I would have thought it would be quicker to ab off the back of the In Pin than down climb it

Doubt it, its only about 30ft of HVD/ S, with only one tricky section. Its the unpacking, uncoiling etc of the rope/ harness that takes the time. Very long time since I did the TD though, presumably its piss as only remember being glad I had a rope.

[fiveknuckle21]

after a night in the cave had an ascent of Lou Ferrino in the bag before 9am on Sunday. YYFY!

Jeez! Maybe the earliest ever ascent, i take it the sun wasn't shining!

She was tickling the holds in between the clouds!

[duncan]

Going to try doing the Cuillin traverse in a day next month, but given that it's our first time on it I'm not really expecting to make it. Any tips on making it more likely, like the real problem areas with route finding or parts where it's worth taking an easy line rather than stay true to the ridge?

Gars-bheinn to Sgurr nan Gillean took me 12 hours. It was 'onsight' (I'd done S n G from the Slig. before) and on my own.  I was very unfit and slowed a lot towards the end.  I included Dubh Mor and, with hindsight, probably shouldn’t have as it added a good 45 minutes and felt like a diversion.  With good hill fitness 9 hours top-to-top would be reasonable but, like the man says, getting to the Sligachan for last orders is the only time that matters.

I thought the best logistic advice was on Bob Wightman’s website.  I used Andy Hyslop's Rockfax pdf. guide and had no major route-finding issues.  I wore an old pair of Walshes resoled with dotty stealth, which worked well.  I carried 4 litres of water (barely enough), snacks (not enough) and a light waterproof top.  If the weather craps out you are going to bail anyway and as you're never more than 2 hours from the road I chose not to carry lots of clothing.

I don’t do much walking and probably should have done a lot more slogging up hills beforehand. I enjoy soloing easy mountain routes (all the Tryfan E. Face classics would make a good warm-up) and being comfortable with all the scrambling helped a lot. If this sounds like you, you might not bother with a rope.  One short 9mm and a few slings and nuts between you all is the maximum you should need.  The most dangerous bits are the long stretches of exposed, unroped scrambling which will be safer with a light pack.  The only places I slightly missed a rope were down-climbing into the TD gap, (HS-ish in decent, a bit rude at 7am), and on Naismith's (VDiff, allegedly) when I was knackered and the wind was up.  You could avoid the TD gap to the south-west quite easily, King's Chimney could be avoided via the Collie ledge but is easy (albeit very impressive).  The Inn Pinn is easy to reverse (Mod? but very exposed). 

The real crux is getting the weather: if the forecast looks good, just drop everything and go.

[iain]

Good knowledge Duncan, much appreciated   

[Will Hunt]

True about the weather being the crux. We did bags of preparation before ours. We stripped down everything to be as light as possible and spent the night before carb loading and drinking plenty of water to make sure we started fully hydrated. With hindsight I could have taken much less rack. Half a set of nuts and slings will do you just fine. I could have done with less water. Started with 3 and a bit litres each and drank a litre on the way to the Lochan in Ghrunnda then filled that up. Got to Gillean with 2 litres of water undrunk! I'm the only person I know of who didn't have a massive problem with water shortage though and this is probably because on our day it only got really hot for 3 hours in the heat of the day.

I'll PM you with some extra beta.

There were some memorable quotes from our buddy who soloed it that day. On leaving the campsite he popped a nut key in his pocket "for collecting all the punter gear". On arrival at the Slig he looked fit to keel over and die. "That was a fucking massive walk for 3 pitches of Diff" 

Also, don't expect the lady behind the bar in the Sligachan to be friendly to people who look like they've come in off the Ridge. I'm pretty easy going and I found her manner to be grossly rude!

[Fultonius]

Also, don't expect the lady behind the bar in the Sligachan to be friendly to people who look like they've come in off the Ridge. I'm pretty easy going and I found her manner to be grossly rude!

Gotta love highland hospitality. 

[Richie Crouch]

Went to Harmer's wood for the first time with Ben as part of my dodgy arm rehab. I received the grand tour and all was fine with the arm... on top of this I managed to repeat lots of good lines including Harmadillo and Baby Bloc. It really is brilliant climbing and a lovely venue.

[Will Hunt]

The pics look boss. Can't wait to check it out.

[BenF]

It really is brilliant climbing and a lovely venue.

Yeah it was a boss evening, with good conditions for this time of year.  Next week we'll take more brushes and get more stuff really clean.

NB:  Hopefully Mr Popp will be out too, which will mean good sandbagging.

[andy popp]

It really is brilliant climbing and a lovely venue.

Yeah it was a boss evening, with good conditions for this time of year.  Next week we'll take more brushes and get more stuff really clean.

NB:  Hopefully Mr Popp will be out too, which will mean good sandbagging.

Glad you enjoyed it Richie, sounds like you had a very good session. I might do an early morning session. Desperately need to find my psyche, which has gone AWOL somewhere.

[BenF]

Oh no Andy! Don't worry, t's probably the warmth and recent difficulties getting out climbing.  We'll sort that out.  What are you doing Thursday afternoon?

[Monolith]

An hour with Crouch and BenF will sort you out. Their ADHD is genuinely infectious.

[Scouse D]

The pics look boss. Can't wait to check it out.

Where are these pictures? Keen to see them

[Monolith]

I've got one on my camera phone but I'm sure team Farley-Popp can help you.