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YYFY!!! (Read 2103081 times)

andy_e

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#1750 Re: YYFY!!!
June 02, 2010, 01:21:57 pm
Well done for not ripping the crimp off fat man.

moose

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#1751 Re: YYFY!!!
June 02, 2010, 05:13:02 pm
Hopefully our tick of North West Girdle didn't get in your way, Moose.
Your partners solo of Wall of Horrors was pretty special to see. The guy is quite obviously a true Almscliff Aficionado.
And well done by the way!

Ahhhh.... I was wondering whether you were a fellow ukb'er.  Of course your girdle traverse didn't get in the way.... having a captive audience probably helped spur me on (at the trad grades I climb, my problem is generally a lack of will).  By the way, sorry if I appeared in any way surly, I was a bit preoccupied... well, terrified is more accurate.  The prospect of roped climbing for the first time in ages was bad enough... but factor in ill-health and feeling compelled to try a route that scared/inspired me.....

I was impressed that you did the girdle: there's something fantastically old-skool about it.  It's only after I've seen you on it that I appreciate the situation and sustained fun it looks to offer - a proper day out.  I now really want to give it a go myself some day, and not just for the sake of a Hard Rock tick!

Re Martin..... he practically lives at Almscliff and always ends up soloing stuff, often at frighteningly close grade to what he leads (and usually when knackered after a hard day!).   Impressive but scary - especially on Wall of Horrors with his dynamic off/on looking sequence.  He made a film about soloing called Lines of Flight that played at the UK festivals and is currently entered at Vancouver, there's a link to a trailer below.  The funding was obtained via an academic social sciences grant - hence the artsy / philosphical tone:

http://www.vimff.org/msg.asp?portalid=3&pageid=45&news=15&caid={981BE0BE-CB90-420E-95A6-88BE06982371}

Monolith

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#1752 Re: YYFY!!!
June 02, 2010, 08:03:35 pm
Get in, second year architorture finished. Look forward to seeing home boys and home girls to crush soon.

Will Hunt

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#1753 Re: YYFY!!!
June 02, 2010, 08:38:55 pm
Hopefully our tick of North West Girdle didn't get in your way, Moose.
Your partners solo of Wall of Horrors was pretty special to see. The guy is quite obviously a true Almscliff Aficionado.
And well done by the way!

Ahhhh.... I was wondering whether you were a fellow ukb'er.  Of course your girdle traverse didn't get in the way.... having a captive audience probably helped spur me on (at the trad grades I climb, my problem is generally a lack of will).  By the way, sorry if I appeared in any way surly, I was a bit preoccupied... well, terrified is more accurate.  The prospect of roped climbing for the first time in ages was bad enough... but factor in ill-health and feeling compelled to try a route that scared/inspired me.....

I was impressed that you did the girdle: there's something fantastically old-skool about it.  It's only after I've seen you on it that I appreciate the situation and sustained fun it looks to offer - a proper day out.  I now really want to give it a go myself some day, and not just for the sake of a Hard Rock tick!

Re Martin..... he practically lives at Almscliff and always ends up soloing stuff, often at frighteningly close grade to what he leads (and usually when knackered after a hard day!).   Impressive but scary - especially on Wall of Horrors with his dynamic off/on looking sequence.  He made a film about soloing called Lines of Flight that played at the UK festivals and is currently entered at Vancouver, there's a link to a trailer below.  The funding was obtained via an academic social sciences grant - hence the artsy / philosphical tone:

http://www.vimff.org/msg.asp?portalid=3&pageid=45&news=15&caid={981BE0BE-CB90-420E-95A6-88BE06982371}

Loved that trailer.

The Girdle's a great route. The climbing is never 3 star quality but its reasonably sustained and always interesting. I've always thought the North West side of Almscliff was the home to the true quality. Routes like Overhanging Groove, Z Climb, Central Climb, Z Climb Eliminate, Big Greeny, Great Western, Franklands etc are all so good and full of history and character and they're all packed into such a tiny bit of rock! The girdle encapsulates them all perfectly and the whole experience is an absolute must.

In fact I think I'd go as far to say that its the best route that I've done (or one of them!) at Almscliff just because it sums up everything that's so fantastic about the Almscliff trad experience so well and in a way that isn't over in a flash, as so many grit routes are, but can be savoured over a few hours.

Andy F

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#1754 Re: YYFY!!!
June 03, 2010, 10:39:35 am
Not climbing related :off: but son no2 arrived at 1.30am this morning. All bouncing 8lb 13 of him  :o  :great:  :dance1:

SA Chris

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#1755 Re: YYFY!!!
June 03, 2010, 10:46:53 am
Nice one Andy.

Announcements go here - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8014.125.html

Unless you don't believe he has wad potential.

GCW

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#1756 Re: YYFY!!!
June 03, 2010, 11:08:01 am
Good effort to Mrs F   ;)

Congrats.

grimer

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#1757 Re: YYFY!!!
June 03, 2010, 12:34:49 pm
Did Loopy at Wilton last night. It kicked my ass good style last year, and became the route i most wanted to do in 2010.

Also saw in an interview in Climb mag that it was Hanq Paskill's favourite new route. Having lowered off it for the second time last year a local smugly informed me that Hanq had done it in his winqelpickqers.

"Fuck Hank Pasquill" i told him. Not that I meant it, I just wanted to know what it felt like to shout that in Wilton Quarry. I stood there for a bit, waiting to get hit by lightning or a loose block.

Lived up to expectations. One of the best E4s I ever did  :)


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#1758 Re: YYFY!!!
June 03, 2010, 12:39:29 pm
Good work Jim  :great:

andy_e

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#1759 Re: YYFY!!!
June 05, 2010, 01:15:58 am
Nice work grimenator. Surprised you didn't get struck down. I've often thought the same thing at the bottom of the routes, but never dared shout it out.

rodma

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#1760 Re: YYFY!!!
June 08, 2010, 01:55:57 pm
yyfy 1-4-7 half crimped for the very first time last night  :bounce:

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#1761 Re: YYFY!!!
June 08, 2010, 09:01:28 pm
I'm confused.  I thought you could do 1-5-9? Or is that only open handed?

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#1762 Re: YYFY!!!
June 08, 2010, 09:32:04 pm
A little  :off: But Leftfield in Sheffield on Sunday. Been waiting a few years for that one.   ;D Short but oh so sweet.

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#1763 Re: YYFY!!!
June 08, 2010, 09:38:31 pm
Nice one G-Dawg. That was always on my list before I moved away. Well it still is I guess. Maybe I need a Lancs Lightning hit. I had a great day with Ms Cider Nutcase doing 3 x 3 star x E3 6as in one afternoon (Swine, Wilton Wall, White Slabs Bunt). Was going to do the same with 4 x 3 x 4 (Loopy, Isle Of White, Adrenaline and Masterspy/Direct). Ah Wilton.......truly the finest of crags.

rodma

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#1764 Re: YYFY!!!
June 09, 2010, 03:19:33 pm
I'm confused.  I thought you could do 1-5-9? Or is that only open handed?

I've only ever really been able to 1-5-8, but that's open handed. I've always been supremely weak half crimped so am dead chuffed

slackline

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#1765 Re: YYFY!!!
June 09, 2010, 03:24:47 pm
 :shrug: If you can do something open-handed surely it should be easier half-crimped?

iain

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#1766 Re: YYFY!!!
June 09, 2010, 03:33:01 pm
I've always been supremely weak half crimped

  ??? :-\

Your version of supremely weak is very different to mine ...

 :great: though

SA Chris

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#1767 Re: YYFY!!!
June 09, 2010, 03:50:33 pm
I've always been supremely weak half crimped

  ??? :-\

Your version of supremely weak is very different to mine ...

 :great: though

Indeed. I can barely do 1 - 2 - 3. It's not as easy as....

rodma

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#1768 Re: YYFY!!!
June 09, 2010, 04:11:14 pm
:shrug: If you can do something open-handed surely it should be easier half-crimped?

Depends on what you're used to really, I always used to (and still do) drag small holds most of the time because I'm pretty lazy. Half-crimp requires more muscle, but is definately a stronger grip for a lot of holds.

Crimped would definately be easier than open, but my fingers just don't like it.

Maybe I'm just special  ;D

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#1769 Re: YYFY!!!
June 09, 2010, 04:22:19 pm
Horses for courses I guess.  I can do 1-4-7 fairly consistently fully crimped but cant do it half crimped and can barely even hang the rungs open handed!

 ???

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#1770 Re: YYFY!!!
June 10, 2010, 07:10:34 pm
Horses for courses I guess.  I can do 1-4-7 fairly consistently fully crimped but cant do it half crimped and can barely even hang the rungs open handed!

 ???

I don't really campus (with my predisposition for getting injured, it's just not worth it) <i>but</i> I'm waay stronger open handed than half or full crimped.

In fact, on the beastmaker I had to add a finger to be able to half crimp over what I can hang open handed!

I pretty much don't crimp when I'm climbing though.

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#1771 Re: YYFY!!!
June 12, 2010, 04:52:25 pm
A bit of a delayed YYFY as it happened on Wednesday....

But I worked 70% of a V2 problem indoors, mostly pinches and crimps (which I am historically shite at), so feels like a big leap forward for me  ;D

However my biceps/arms are still feeling it today  ::)

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#1772 Re: YYFY!!!
June 12, 2010, 05:26:11 pm
YYFY
had an amazing day at woodwell yesterday.
Managed to get 2 7a+'s done in a session
did Nothing To Say Dyno and Sanctified Strong!!
feeling like all the training is paying off.

andy_e

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#1773 Re: YYFY!!!
June 13, 2010, 12:12:55 am
Yes yes mark you beast! Good effort.

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#1774 Re: YYFY!!!
June 13, 2010, 09:01:46 am
Exactly a year since I kicked the smokes, done  8)

 

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