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YYFY!!! (Read 2103157 times)

JC

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#1600 Re: YYFY!!!
March 29, 2010, 12:02:24 pm
Cheers Andy.   Wow good to know a bit about the history of it, didn't know any of that   :o

The crag has been bone for a couple of weeks, but some seepage coming through yesterday.

I guess it is a bit gnarly to be popular, but i thought it was better than Zeke for me. I agree the crux is using the undercut and its super technical on the feet as well!

I had a go on the 8a to the left afterwards (possibly unrepeated as well?), managed to do all the moves but i reckon it might be undergraded!

Fiend

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#1601 Re: YYFY!!!
March 29, 2010, 12:24:39 pm
"Peak sport routes in hard and nasty SHOCKER" ;)

Jaspersharpe

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#1602 Re: YYFY!!!
March 29, 2010, 12:26:30 pm
And undergraded? Ticks all the boxes!  ;D

JamesD

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#1603 Re: YYFY!!!
March 29, 2010, 12:33:29 pm
YES YES FUCKING YES!

Did my first V2 on Sunday, awesomeness  :thumbsup:

Andy Harris

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#1604 Re: YYFY!!!
March 29, 2010, 01:41:51 pm
If I remember the 8a lost a crucial hold and was unrepeated. Although I'm not sure if it's ever been tried so more like untried. Simon Reed may have done it.

Jeff25

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#1605 Re: YYFY!!!
March 29, 2010, 03:13:11 pm
That's how Hercules got to climb 9a in sandals picking up a calf each day as a boy until he ended up picking it up as a bull in his teens. Legend.

Shit, isn't that...?





(congratulations to Rob, Ms. Rob and Dilys)

 :bow: brilliant  :bow:

Nibile

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#1606 Re: YYFY!!!
March 29, 2010, 08:37:49 pm
YYFY
i finally managed to pull my finger out of the proverbial placement and stop whining about being fat and weak, to start training again.
i did my first session today, preparing myself to be worth of the beastmaker that i want to buy, in whose loving arms i will spend the summer.
so given that the beastmaker guys are true beasts i did what they do (on a smaller scale...) and now i am beasted.
and happy.

Nibile

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#1607 Re: YYFY!!!
April 06, 2010, 02:28:39 pm
I JUST BOUGHT A BEASTMAKER
GODDAMMIT FUCKING YES
oh fu** i am so fu**ing excited! if i can't climb as much as i want, i can train so fu**ing much that three days a year will be enough to tick all the 8b's in ticino.

Krank

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#1608 Re: YYFY!!!
April 06, 2010, 02:37:57 pm
are you pleased with your beastmaker then Nibs?

Nibile

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#1609 Re: YYFY!!!
April 06, 2010, 02:58:20 pm
well, considering that i only sent the order and i already feel stronger, i have to say that i am very pleased!
can't wait to receive it, mount it and start training.
no more fear of the dark days.

butterworthtom

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#1610 Re: YYFY!!!
April 06, 2010, 05:32:36 pm
YYFY!
Just come back from my font trip trip where i set myself the goal of doing a 7a or above every day. Despite the rain I managed it, here is my 7a up tick list for the week:
Graviton 7a
Gravilon 7a
L'oblique 7a
Helicoptere 7a (I tried this about 60 times last year and didn't manage it so I was laying a demon to rest)
Carnage 7b+ (This also another yyfy as it is my first 7b+ and it took me about 5 or 6 goes)
Cul de chien roof sans chip 7a (Although it was wet on the top so I jumped off once I got to the jug after trying to top it out)
L'angle bens 7a+ (I was really psyched for this cause when we were at isatis it rained with intermittent showers all day and I really wanted to do this and it seemed to stay wet for ages after the rain, and I had to persuade my friends to stay despite it being soaked so I could wait for it to dry)

I also got high up on super prestat, but had to give in cause it was slicing the skin off my fingers. I am psyched to try it again next year. Preferably with fresh skin.

SA Chris

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#1611 Re: YYFY!!!
April 06, 2010, 09:41:20 pm
Cul de chien roof sans chip frite 7a

We'll have no franglais here!

youngy

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#1612 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2010, 12:09:45 pm
YYFY
did another 7a on monday  :thumbsup:

managed to do Parisellas Original/roof only took 4 goes as well

aimed for 5 this year and done 4 already

just need to get a few more outside the cave haha


Falling Down

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#1613 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2010, 12:17:15 pm
6 days climbing in Catalunya and no elbow pain. My injury is completely healed  :thumbsup:

wiain

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#1614 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2010, 12:47:18 pm
YYFY!
Just come back from my font trip trip where i set myself the goal of doing a 7a or above every day. Despite the rain I managed it, here is my 7a up tick list for the week:

Nice one Tom.

erm, sam

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#1615 Re: YYFY!!!
April 09, 2010, 11:47:24 pm
YYFY: Had a day off and went climbing in the georgous amazing beautiful weather today.

psychomansam

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#1616 Re: YYFY!!!
April 10, 2010, 11:15:00 pm
I know, I know, not really the right forum, but my injuries can't really take bouldering too well right now. Need physio!

So YYFY, did my first HVS's today. Tody's wall (awesome), Chequers buttress (nice) and three pebble slab (scary as shite)

Knew I had HVS in me, but been putting it off til i got some confidence in friction again after 3 months of indoor only climbing.

Now i just need to convince someone to sack off this trad lark and come do some sport with me. Not the easiest when you live in Sheffield and can't climb the 7's. Horseshoe anyone?

slackline

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#1617 Re: YYFY!!!
April 10, 2010, 11:25:18 pm
 :thumbsup: Good work.

SA Chris

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#1618 Re: YYFY!!!
April 11, 2010, 10:41:23 am

So YYFY, did my first HVS's today. Tody's wall (awesome), Chequers buttress (nice) and three pebble slab (scary as shite)

Now i just need to convince someone to sack off this trad lark and come do some sport with me. Not the easiest when you live in Sheffield and can't climb the 7's. Horseshoe anyone?

Two great routes, nice one. Why do you want to go and do sport climbing now though?

Plattsy

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#1619 Re: YYFY!!!
April 11, 2010, 06:10:41 pm
Yes Yes Fucking Yes!! Did Marks Roof Left Hand (peak district bouldering guide) or Roadside Roof (BMC) this morning. My first 7A.  :bounce:

It almost went first go (after working it last Tuesday) and then took another 4 or 5 attempts. Thought I was going to fluff the top out after my brain seemed to stop working.

If it's got two names do I get two 7A's?  :-\ ;D

Ackbar

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#1620 Re: YYFY!!!
April 11, 2010, 07:01:38 pm
Yes Yes Fucking Yes!! Did Marks Roof Left Hand (peak district bouldering guide) or Roadside Roof (BMC) this morning. My first 7A.  :bounce:

It almost went first go (after working it last Tuesday) and then took another 4 or 5 attempts. Thought I was going to fluff the top out after my brain seemed to stop working.

If it's got two names do I get two 7A's?  :-\ ;D

Nice one.  This was my first 7A as well, and in my opinion one of the best around.

nik at work

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#1621 Re: YYFY!!!
April 11, 2010, 07:08:27 pm
YYFY...YYFY...YYFY...YYFY...

:dance1: :dance1: First 8A in the forest :dance1: :dance1:

Last Friday did La Puce at Canche between rain showers and just before the mother of all hailstorms, of course there's no climbing on this problem but it would seem I'm pretty good at jumping backwards...

Expect this fact to be referenced to in every post I make for the next few weeks.

neil h

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#1622 Re: YYFY!!!
April 11, 2010, 07:37:16 pm
dynos dont count  ;D

nik at work

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#1623 Re: YYFY!!!
April 11, 2010, 08:19:48 pm
They do when you're short :)

GCW

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#1624 Re: YYFY!!!
April 11, 2010, 11:18:55 pm
You always say everything's 8a for the short.

 

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