[north_country_boy]

Yes, it goes right from Tetris:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10531.0.html

Doesnt clarify the 'easier than tetris or dirty 7c+/8a' issue though? Tetris felt steady 7c when  i did it, does adding the start of Tetris, into the mantal problem really make 8a? Keen to head back and check it out if its as good as Tetris.....

[Andy F]

I saw that North CB had posted and thought 8c 

[BenF]

I'm pretty sure that Columns (as originally climbed by Mick) started up the prow/column/arete from the Tetris sitstart, then headed right across the lip to finish up the arete as per the 7b line described in the guide.  He also climbed it finishing up the mantel but going right would add a little bit of difficulty and maybe make it a touch harder than Tetris.  Not sure though as I've yet to do either problem from sitting.    However, I'd say Columns probably is as good as Tetris though although obviously I've not actually finished either of them.

[Somebody's Fool]

Doesnt clarify the 'easier than tetris or dirty 7c+/8a' issue though? Tetris felt steady 7c when  i did it, does adding the start of Tetris, into the mantal problem really make 8a? Keen to head back and check it out if its as good as Tetris.....

It is definitely harder than Tetris and, in my opinion, a much better sequence. But like ferrret says on the other thread 7c+ is more realistic than 8a. It's not simply a case of adding the start of Tetris to the slab/right arete problem. Both these sections are easy. The transition is the meat of it. Awesome problem though, can't recommend it highly enough.

[dave]

isn't there some shit about columns actually starting just right of tetris, i.e. just on the right tetris rib sans left arete?

[JamesD]

Holy crapoly. how tall are you?

6 ft 2

At my powerlifting peak when I was heavier (around 17 stone), I was deadlifting 200kg, squatting 160kg (did 180 once but never managed a repeat), and benching 120kg.
Since I haven't done any proper powerlifting training for a long time and have been restricting myself to other exercises/training methods to help increase explosive power, my strength has dropped to around 60-70% of that, however I am now a lot lighter, and faster than I was when I was that kind of weight.
I imagine a lot of the weight comes from my legs and my back/core, as I also do a lot of cycling (70-100 miles a week minimum), and still have a very strong back from years of heavy deadlifting.
Anyway I want to stop cluttering up this thread with my training stuff so i'll shut up now 

[Bonjoy]

isn't there some shit about columns actually starting just right of tetris, i.e. just on the right tetris rib sans left arete?

I’ve never heard that one. That really would be making a sow’s ear out of a silk purse.

[Monolith]

Well after some 600000 hours of effort learning CAD, doing drawings, redoing them for the next day ad infintum writing essays, furthering structural knowledge, I scored 64% for first semester of this academic year. I'm pretty pleased with this. I'm pretty gutted one of my studio marks wasn't a fair bit higher but it was all in effect a semester of learning through error and teaching myself. 76% for architectural history was very much welcomed and it's always a pleasure to write about the Ticino school of architects as ultimately that should be where I end up working and crushing after graduating.

[andy popp]

Good effort Tom, must be very gratifying.

[r-man]

isn't there some shit about columns actually starting just right of tetris, i.e. just on the right tetris rib sans left arete?

I’ve never heard that one. That really would be making a sow’s ear out of a silk purse.

Tony Simpson says:

It is not a right hand finish to tetris but more a sitdown right hand start to the hanging slab problem. Is def harder than tetris. The effort Mike had to put in to hold the sloppers going right into the start of the hangging slab was just emense. I managed tetris but could not do this problem.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html

[Monolith]

Thanks Andy. I think the life goals have to be: Font 8a, Sport 8a, an 8000m peak and an 8 million pound scheme in my own office. All probably contradict one another! I'm psyched though. 

[andy_e]

an 8000 metre peak would require more than one day of climbing per year tom, sorry to break that news to you 

[Monolith]

I'd ticked the vast majority of Snowdonia and a fair portion of the Lake District by 16 Emery so watch your mouth! More worried by the lofty ambition to tick Fr 8a with minimal sport climbing time under the belt of late. Anyway tax dodger, are you achieving or what??

[BenF]

Good study skills Tom, you are forgiven not turning up at the board last night. 

[a dense loner]

Tony Simpson says:

It is not a right hand finish to tetris but more a sitdown right hand start to the hanging slab problem. Is def harder than tetris. The effort Mike had to put in to hold the sloppers going right into the start of the hangging slab was just emense. I managed tetris but could not do this problem.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html
[/quote]

columns part deux?

[Jim]

not going down without a fight eh kes. take some of them down with you :wink:

[Bonjoy]

isn't there some shit about columns actually starting just right of tetris, i.e. just on the right tetris rib sans left arete?

I’ve never heard that one. That really would be making a sow’s ear out of a silk purse.

Tony Simpson says:

It is not a right hand finish to tetris but more a sitdown right hand start to the hanging slab problem. Is def harder than tetris. The effort Mike had to put in to hold the sloppers going right into the start of the hangging slab was just emense. I managed tetris but could not do this problem.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html

Come to think of it I had seen that before but discounted as confusing rumour. No disrespect to Tony, but that description is as clear as mud, besides which Tony’s descriptions of other peoples ascents are not world renoun for their pin-point accuracy.

[a dense loner]

exactly what i thought, tho between columns being 8a and accapi clothing my stomachs never looked in better shape

[Johnny Brown]

I started one hand either side of the prow (as tetris), climbed to the lip, then shuffled rightwards along the top to the far right arete  - but the top was very damp so I just dropped off rather than manteling out the slab. For me it felt easier than tetris (ie, 7c/V9 ish), as you avoid the cut loose swinging round the corner - a non problem really.

Wow Ru, was this the same day you did Nadin's Secret Finger? Two words - ON FIRE.

[Ru]

Wow Ru, was this the same day you did Nadin's Secret Finger? Two words - ON FIRE.

I detect sarcasm. Probably around the same time. Doing Columns and dropping off before the 7b finish probably is 7c, I stand by that one. I found Tetris quite hard. I think I was going ok at the time - did the Inertia Reel Trav at same time ish too.

[Johnny Brown]

No, the top out is trivial, sounds like you did the meat of the problem. By far the hardest move is establishing both hands on the lip and then getting feet up. I found Tetris quite hard too, but this is definitely harder. I agree it isn't the best line, though I'm assured it climbs better than Tetris.

[Ru]

My non-problem remark was about the fact that I didn't finish it off, rather than dissing the line.

Also in this area, has anyone else done my sit start to Inertia Reel? I still think this is pretty tricky and don't know of anyone that's done it except Simpson who said he thought it was 7c. I found it harder than Mushin.

[Johnny Brown]

After that guy bust his tendon on it I've never touched the hold since.

[El Mocho]

Also in this area, has anyone else done my sit start to Inertia Reel? I still think this is pretty tricky and don't know of anyone that's done it except Simpson who said he thought it was 7c. I found it harder than Mushin.

I did it back in September. Think I found an easier way - ended up going with my right hand to the undercut as a backhand then matching with left and then palming with right to get stood up or something like that. 7c would prob be right to me, I had just done the trav so was trying yours, did that and then went t play on Mushin' (which I had done before) and couldn't do it.

I thought it was pretty good.

[cowboyhat]

WHAT!

The traverse doesn't get a repeat for twelvty years and now everyone walking past has done it!

Well, everyone under 55 kilos.