Yes, it goes right from Tetris:http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10531.0.html
Doesnt clarify the 'easier than tetris or dirty 7c+/8a' issue though? Tetris felt steady 7c when i did it, does adding the start of Tetris, into the mantal problem really make 8a? Keen to head back and check it out if its as good as Tetris.....
Holy crapoly. how tall are you?
isn't there some shit about columns actually starting just right of tetris, i.e. just on the right tetris rib sans left arete?
Quote from: dave on February 24, 2010, 09:51:05 amisn't there some shit about columns actually starting just right of tetris, i.e. just on the right tetris rib sans left arete?I’ve never heard that one. That really would be making a sow’s ear out of a silk purse.
It is not a right hand finish to tetris but more a sitdown right hand start to the hanging slab problem. Is def harder than tetris. The effort Mike had to put in to hold the sloppers going right into the start of the hangging slab was just emense. I managed tetris but could not do this problem.
Quote from: Bonjoy on February 25, 2010, 08:17:17 amQuote from: dave on February 24, 2010, 09:51:05 amisn't there some shit about columns actually starting just right of tetris, i.e. just on the right tetris rib sans left arete?I’ve never heard that one. That really would be making a sow’s ear out of a silk purse.Tony Simpson says:QuoteIt is not a right hand finish to tetris but more a sitdown right hand start to the hanging slab problem. Is def harder than tetris. The effort Mike had to put in to hold the sloppers going right into the start of the hangging slab was just emense. I managed tetris but could not do this problem.http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html
I started one hand either side of the prow (as tetris), climbed to the lip, then shuffled rightwards along the top to the far right arete - but the top was very damp so I just dropped off rather than manteling out the slab. For me it felt easier than tetris (ie, 7c/V9 ish), as you avoid the cut loose swinging round the corner - a non problem really.
Wow Ru, was this the same day you did Nadin's Secret Finger? Two words - ON FIRE.
Also in this area, has anyone else done my sit start to Inertia Reel? I still think this is pretty tricky and don't know of anyone that's done it except Simpson who said he thought it was 7c. I found it harder than Mushin.