[Somebody's Fool]

It was me. Si Wilson. Cheers for blowing my trumpet for me Mark. And glad the parking situation seems to have sorted itself out.

[SA Chris]

Nice one SF. All these pseuds and pseudonyms are a bit confusing to us out of towners.

[Jaspersharpe]

Good effort SF.

[jordysi]

YYFY got all of the pins and the plate out on my finger last week so can start training again.... in 3 weeks... not great but cannot wait to touch rock again soon as well 

[JamesD]

Nice one, pushing forward and crushing is never crap.

If I remember correctly you're a newcomer to bouldering with a history of powerlifting/gym type stuff? If so I'd say that whilst your fingers will be relatively weak when compared to other climbers they're probably still stronger than Joe Public's. You'll most likely be lacking technique (unless you are a huge natural talent) and I'd guess you'll be carrying an excess of muscle bulk? Don't cane your fingers, focus on technique and good efficient precise body position and the fingers will come along by themselves. Crisp technique will get you up a lot more V4's than strong fingers will.

Anyway didn't mean to waffle on, have a wad for getting the YYFY vibe (and for seemingly knowing fucking everything ever about cameras)

Yeah Nik I have a background in powerlifting, and thats the really damn frustrating thing is that I am generally pretty strong, very very flexible, and i've been told my technique is half decent for a beginner (although obviously still a beginner) and my grip strength is pretty good too.
Its just the strength in the tips of my fingers, for instance I can close a COC 1 gripper for 5-6 reps with no worries, and am currently working up to a 2, can do a decent amount of pull-ups etc which means on open handed stuff I don't really struggle too much at all, I even nearly managed a V2 with big Jugs oo er missus
but on all these little crimping things my fingers give out before anything else, I know I have to be patient but its driving me crazy!

Cheers for the advice regardless, I think I am going to start focusing as heavily on good technique as possible on the stuff I can do for the moment

[SA Chris]

Yup work on technique, esp footwork. Easiest way to climb on small crimps is to be able to not actually pull on them.

Also learn to use various grips as required - Pinches, open hands, wrapping thumbs on crimps all help when actual finger strength is failing.

[JamesD]

"Also learn to use various grips as required - Pinches, open hands, wrapping thumbs on crimps all help when actual finger strength is failing."

Are there any good links online that demonstrate different types of climbing grips, would be good to see if i'm missing a trick here!

[Dave Westlake]

Was chuffed on sat' as simon W ticked columns at 5 clouds.1st 8a.

nice one.  What/ where is columns??

[Jim]

5 clouds, roaches

[SA Chris]

"Also learn to use various grips as required - Pinches, open hands, wrapping thumbs on crimps all help when actual finger strength is failing."

Are there any good links online that demonstrate different types of climbing grips, would be good to see if i'm missing a trick here!

google

http://www.rock-climbing-for-life.com/rock_climbing_101.html

or any beginner's climbing manual - getting a bit off topic here - worth a thread of it's own if you need more info.

[Fiend]

Yup work on technique, esp footwork. Easiest way to climb on small crimps is to be able to not actually pull on them.

Will that get you up N*k's W**l then??

[SA Chris]

Never climbed Nok's Wibl so can't say

[Jaspersharpe]

Yup work on technique, esp footwork. Easiest way to climb on small crimps is to be able to not actually pull on crimp the fuck out of them.

AMEN!!

[nik at work]

Yeah Nik I have a background in powerlifting, and thats the really damn frustrating thing is that I am generally pretty strong, very very flexible, and i've been told my technique is half decent for a beginner (although obviously still a beginner) and my grip strength is pretty good too.
Its just the strength in the tips of my fingers, for instance I can close a COC 1 gripper for 5-6 reps with no worries, and am currently working up to a 2, can do a decent amount of pull-ups etc which means on open handed stuff I don't really struggle too much at all, I even nearly managed a V2 with big Jugs oo er missus
but on all these little crimping things my fingers give out before anything else, I know I have to be patient but its driving me crazy!

Cheers for the advice regardless, I think I am going to start focusing as heavily on good technique as possible on the stuff I can do for the moment

I can't remember the close force of a COC1 (125lb's?) off the top of my head but given that level of hand strength coupled with good flexibility you should (unless you are VERY heavy) get up things up to V4/5-ish pretty quickly with reasonable technique. You shouldn't really be meeting any small crimps on steep ground until V6 upwards(ish). I'm not saying this to put you down, just to point out that you seem (from a distance, having never met you) to be in pretty good physical shape as a newcomer and your biggest weakness is climbing intelligence. It's far to early to get stuck in the "I must have stronger fingers, they are my weak link" mentality, especially if you do have good flexibility which is surprisingly very rare (and often under-rated) in climbers. Befriend a good climber (not strong, but good) who can communicate clearly and listen to them, you'll be up V4 in a couple of sessions IMHO.
Good luck with you aims.

P.S. Good technique isn't doing things you can already do with style, it is working out how to do the things you can't do with the tools you already have, rather than resorting to getting new tools (i.e. stronger fingers)

P.P.S. I hope this doesn't sound negative, it's really not meant that way. Go forth and crush

[nik at work]

Sorry this has all gone a little OT...

[Adam Lincoln]

A big YYFY for me today. Managed my first V12! Super Submarine at Longridge. 

[nik at work]

Nice one Tanners!!!


Now get back to Denham (for your second??)

[JamesD]

A big YYFY for me today. Managed my first V12! Super Submarine at Longridge. 

Beast!
Thats some impressive stuff

I'm 16 stone btw Nik I guess that makes things a little trickier 

[SA Chris]

Holy crapoly. how tall are you?

[Jim]

I feel thin! 

[Paul B]

Just recite the words "John Dunne is my HERO" every waking minute and you'll be fine. On a serious note, weight is always going to be the limiting factor on your finger strength.

[nik at work]

Paul is right, weight is going to be limiting. However I don't think you will have reached that limit yet even with what you perceive to be "weak" fingers.

[Dave Westlake]

5 clouds, roaches

Cheers, but could you (or someone else) be a bit more specific?  I've done a bit of searching and looking in the guide but can't find "columns 8a".  My guess is that it might be going right from the start of Tetris?

[north_country_boy]

5 clouds, roaches

Cheers, but could you (or someone else) be a bit more specific?  I've done a bit of searching and looking in the guide but can't find "columns 8a".  My guess is that it might be going right from the start of Tetris?

Is it the sit start to the problem to the right of Tetris?? Seem to recollect that being the case.....pic on Johnny Brown's website.....

[r-man]

Yes, it goes right from Tetris:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10531.0.html