UKBouldering.com

YYFY!!! (Read 2102941 times)

dontfollowme

Online
  • ****
  • Trusted Users
  • junky
  • Posts: 955
  • Karma: +13/-0
#1175 Re: YYFY!!!
October 17, 2009, 09:22:21 pm
Nice one Chillax. Which one?

chillax

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 660
  • Karma: +27/-1
#1176 Re: YYFY!!!
October 17, 2009, 09:28:37 pm
Cheers! It was Eat It Left in Murlough Bay at Fair Head (Northern Ireland). Not exactly a world famous bouldering location, but a kick ass problem. Now just the nails hard SS to work on, put up by the one and only James Pearson   ;D

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#1177 Re: YYFY!!!
October 17, 2009, 10:32:28 pm
Well pleased with that, especially Pebble Wall - felt nails last time I was on it, what a difference some beta and better conditions make.

Nice one. You will see now once you have done it the first time, you can do it every time.

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3637
  • Karma: +200/-3
#1178 Re: YYFY!!!
October 17, 2009, 10:41:45 pm
Well pleased with that, especially Pebble Wall - felt nails last time I was on it, what a difference some beta and better conditions make.

Nice one. You will see now once you have done it the first time, you can do it every time.

Yeah, see what you mean - ended up going with the heelhook in the cup all the way, think that's good for someone my height. My finger's proper ragged after crimping that pebble though!

That list of 'must do' ticks at The Cliff is two shorter now, but it's still pretty long - think I'm gonna be spending a good while there this winter!  :thumbsup:



Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#1179 Re: YYFY!!!
October 18, 2009, 03:14:23 pm
did festin last week and carnage. wont have to pull on that awefull hold on carnage ever again  ;D

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8007
  • Karma: +633/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#1180 Re: YYFY!!!
October 19, 2009, 01:43:09 pm
Carnage at Malham or Carnage elsewhere?

G' effort regardless.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#1181 Re: YYFY!!!
October 19, 2009, 01:47:03 pm
http://bleau.info/cuvier/253.html

Effort Jim.  :spank: Will.  ;)

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#1182 Re: YYFY!!!
October 19, 2009, 01:48:09 pm
did festin last week and carnage. wont have to pull on that awefull hold on carnage ever again  ;D

You mean you're not going to do Carnage Assis and the 1.3bn other variations?  ;)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#1183 Re: YYFY!!!
October 19, 2009, 01:50:57 pm
Carnage at Malham or Carnage elsewhere?

G' effort regardless.

I'm not sure Jim is sure which end of a sport rope to tie into?

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#1184 Re: YYFY!!!
October 19, 2009, 04:56:54 pm
I'm not sure Jim is sure which end of a sport rope to tie into?

I don't remember any bolts on Carnage  ;)

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#1185 Re: YYFY!!!
October 19, 2009, 05:48:13 pm
Had a glorious moment on Friday night topping out on a new 7B+ in the Beddgelert Forest. I was totally in bulk; just had enough juice to hold the final slap. First time I've been able to properly push myself bouldering for over a year - dare I say it out loud: "I think my knacked finger might be (almost) better". Great problem, so intense:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=424

Then went back on Saturday and did a load of ace slopey first ascents on Noel's White Rhino block (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=423, then went to see Super Furries in Bangor and ended up partying all night!!

What a weekend!  :dance1:

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#1186 Re: YYFY!!!
October 20, 2009, 08:15:50 am
I'm not sure Jim is sure which end of a sport rope to tie into?

I don't remember any bolts on Carnage  ;)

I knew some picky pedant would pick up on that as soon as I posted it. If you want to delve in... using a sport rope does not necessarily imply having to do a sport climb :)

chriss

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 301
  • Karma: +8/-1
#1187 Re: YYFY!!!
October 21, 2009, 08:22:00 pm
Did my first font 7b in the UK yesterday at Bolwles Rocks (sandstone). Not cutting edge, but a YYFY moment for me.
On a side note I have already done two 7b's in the Swiss & one in Mello Blocco, so what dose this say about Euro grades eh? Would be nice to get one in Font before I piss off to Oz in December thou.....

Hoseyb

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 547
  • Karma: +44/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
#1188 Re: YYFY!!!
October 21, 2009, 09:09:28 pm
Did Liquid Armbar today!
Been obsessing somewhat about this offwidth for a bit now, but finally got it free today, didn't bleed much either.
Hose

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#1189 Re: YYFY!!!
October 21, 2009, 10:32:10 pm
Did Liquid Armbar today!
Been obsessing somewhat about this offwidth for a bit now, but finally got it free today, didn't bleed much either.
Hose

Good work, t'is great to get the lines you've wanted to do for ages ticked.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#1190 Re: YYFY!!!
October 22, 2009, 12:28:52 pm
Great name.

dave

  • Guest
#1191 Re: YYFY!!!
October 22, 2009, 12:52:53 pm
Had a glorious moment on Friday night topping out on a new 7B+ in the Beddgelert Forest. I was totally in bulk; just had enough juice to hold the final slap. First time I've been able to properly push myself bouldering for over a year - dare I say it out loud: "I think my knacked finger might be (almost) better". Great problem, so intense:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=424

Then went back on Saturday and did a load of ace slopey first ascents on Noel's White Rhino block (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=423, then went to see Super Furries in Bangor and ended up partying all night!!

What a weekend!  :dance1:

Quote
Freddie Right Hand rates around V5/6/6C/7A

isn't high time you guys sorted your system out when the grades are almost longer than the problem names? How often do you need to repaint the forward slash key on your keyboard?

Dr T

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1518
  • Karma: +49/-3
#1192 Re: YYFY!!!
October 25, 2009, 07:52:23 am
finally a YYFY moment after a year with very little outdoor play
moving house, a new sprog and family illness pretty much put a stopper on the outdoor play but....

a week in the forest mostly spent camped out under Barre Fix which went on the last day - and easily too...
ignore all the small holds - big moves between the good ones  - 7b+ baby - at last ;D

on another note the boy very much enjoyed the forest - a very scientific test of 50 plus pine cones led to the conclusion that none were tasty  :lol:

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8816
  • Karma: +816/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
#1193 Re: YYFY!!!
October 25, 2009, 08:17:55 am
Nice one Dr T  :thumbsup:

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#1194 Re: YYFY!!!
October 25, 2009, 08:24:21 am
Nice one, a friend had a very similar last day success on this problem this Easter. A few days sat under one overhanging rock and it's worth it, it's totally worth it.

Tommy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 814
  • Karma: +97/-1
#1195 Re: YYFY!!!
October 25, 2009, 10:46:54 am
Did Liquid Armbar today!
Been obsessing somewhat about this offwidth for a bit now, but finally got it free today, didn't bleed much either.
Hose

Nice one Hosey - such a good name too. Glad you got the psyche together to get it done!! I see you've already spied another project...

Hoseyb

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 547
  • Karma: +44/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
#1196 Re: YYFY!!!
October 26, 2009, 02:17:49 pm
Hi Tom,
Somethings drifted down from the rumour mill, yes.. :whistle:

Happy to relinquish the sharp end on this one if you're up here.

Hosey

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4331
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#1197 Re: YYFY!!!
November 08, 2009, 06:53:20 pm
Yes yes fucking yes!

Went down to Dumby today, despite still being drunk from last night (got a lift!) without any real intentions of doing much climbing.

Faffed about doing this and that and doing some filming, then noticed some guys were on consolidated, which I've had a bit of a seige on recently, so I chucked my shoes on and had a go. 2nd go I got through to the finish and was quite surprised that I wasn't too trashed. Next go, nailed the bugger!

First 7b+, just need to do a straight-up one now.  ;D

Iesu

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 474
  • Karma: +10/-3
#1198 Re: YYFY!!!
November 10, 2009, 06:41:20 pm
Demon Wall Roof in twilight yesterday 22 months after first pulling on those holds. fluffed the moves to the upper break past the mono 7 days previously.

It's pretty close to a year since I did my last (first) 7a+, so at this rate I might get DWR Lhand before 2015!

chuffed to bits

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3637
  • Karma: +200/-3
#1199 Re: YYFY!!!
November 10, 2009, 06:49:59 pm
Demon Wall Roof in twilight yesterday 22 months after first pulling on those holds. fluffed the moves to the upper break past the mono 7 days previously.

It's pretty close to a year since I did my last (first) 7a+, so at this rate I might get DWR Lhand before 2015!

chuffed to bits

Nice one - that's the next thing on my hitlist, but I've only had a couple of sessions on it over the last couple of weeks. So just another 21 months left then right?

 ;)

On a more serious note I'm still struggling with it being 'only' a grade harder than DBS, which I knocked off in a session. Demon Wall Roof feels like another world!


 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal