[nik at work]

General nice oneishness all round chaps.

Tanners, go beast

Chris FA's rock

Fatdoc Surplomb de la Coquille at Hautes-Plaines might work for you?

[KH]

Took some inspiration from Mr Haston today and bagged my first french 8a at 33.  YYFY.

I now have 19 years to do 9a!

[SA Chris]

Nice one, wot you get done?

[KH]

I climbed H1N1 at Dinas Rock, South Wales.  It's a slightly harder variation of an existing 8a there called Bloody Sport Climbers.  I was even more pleased as this was only the second ascent!

[tomtom]

I climbed H1N1 at Dinas Rock, South Wales.  It's a slightly harder variation of an existing 8a there called Bloody Sport Climbers.  I was even more pleased as this was only the second ascent!

I bet you flu up it!    (sorry couldn't resist).. Good effort sir.

[Drew]

with an aim for a 7a in an hour that I've not done before!! might need some pointers.. flowing slaps up perfect scoops a speciality..

Fatdoc Surplomb de la Coquille at Hautes-Plaines might work for you?

La Coquille is 6c unless you go for the sitter. And it's not exactly flowing up scoops. It more like slapping between big crimps.

I'd say the Joker at Bas Cuvier. It's pretty flowy if you do it the French way i.e. throw over to the top hold with the left, rather than gaston with the right.

[Jim]

so instead of doing one of the easiest (and very good) 7a's in the forest, you suggest trying the hardest (and shitest)?!?

[Drew]

so instead of doing one of the easiest (and very good) 7a's in the forest, you suggest trying the hardest (and shitest)?!?

Why do a soft-touch, when you can do something that's solid for the grade. Otherwise everyone knows you've done it because it's soft-touch. I must admit, I've not done it from a sitter, but it doesn't look like it's gonna be a good problem. If you're going to do a soft-touch, you might as well do Corto Maltese. That way, once you've pissed it, you can do l'Helicoptre (possibly the best 7a in the Forest?). Then you can wander down the path and do Duroxmanie (certainly the best problem I've done in Font).

Oh,and I thought The Joker was solid, but good fun. Proper physical, especially the top out.

[Jim]

unpleasant finger knackering holds, awkward body position, horrible polished footholds, just generally unpleasant.
And no I've not done it.
The sitter to coquille however is very good with some nice holds and some good moves

[nik at work]

I have to say that was my thinking also Jim. Whilst it is probably at the lower end of the 7a spectrum it still deserves the grade and is also very flashable which bodes well for the desired quick ascent.
I thought it was a nice sequence on very pleasant holds.
Folks, strokes etc etc

[Sloper]

Helicopter one of the best 7a's in the forest?   

[galpinos]

The sitter to coquille however is very good with some nice holds and some good moves

I nearly falshed the stand (second go) but couldn't get near the sitter. Is it that much harder or was I using whack beta?

[Clart]

I climbed H1N1 at Dinas Rock, South Wales.  It's a slightly harder variation of an existing 8a there called Bloody Sport Climbers.  I was even more pleased as this was only the second ascent!

Tidy butt! 

[Jaspersharpe]

unpleasant finger knackering holds, awkward body position, horrible polished footholds, just generally unpleasant.

You forgot eliminate and chipped.

And no I've not done it.

I have but I wouldn't bother doing it again. I know it's just a matter of opinion but I thought it was only popular because of it's historical importance.

[Clart]

The sitter to coquille however is very good with some nice holds and some good moves

I nearly falshed the stand (second go) but couldn't get near the sitter. Is it that much harder or was I using whack beta?

Deep Egyptian facing left at start, big left arm lock to right hand crimp and you're off. I didn't think it was that much harder but then I likes my crimps.

[Monolith]

Took some inspiration from Mr Haston today and bagged my first french 8a at 33.  YYFY.

I now have 19 years to do 9a!

Nice work Kev! Hope to see you soon. Keep at it!!!

[SA Chris]

I climbed H1N1 at Dinas Rock, South Wales.  It's a slightly harder variation of an existing 8a there called Bloody Sport Climbers.  I was even more pleased as this was only the second ascent!

Cool. We can slag you off a bit if it helps? Seemed to work for Mr haston?

[BenF]

I climbed H1N1 at Dinas Rock, South Wales.  It's a slightly harder variation of an existing 8a there called Bloody Sport Climbers.  I was even more pleased as this was only the second ascent!

Nice one Kev, you gonna have a manic long distance drive up north again soon?  I understand that Owen is heading your way next weekend.

[fatneck]

Good stuff Kev! Keep crushing!

[Stubbs]

If you're going to do a soft-touch, you might as well do Corto Maltese. That way, once you've pissed it, you can do l'Helicoptre (possibly the best 7a in the Forest?). Then you can wander down the path and do Duroxmanie (certainly the best problem I've done in Font).

Oh,and I thought The Joker was solid, but good fun. Proper physical, especially the top out.

Holy shit, Helecoptre and Duroxmanie were the best problems you did in Font?  You need to get away from Cuvier.

[fatdoc]

I flashed Durox.

I span of helicopter... Missed by megagrip pad and swore never to try again.

Anything to suggest near buthiers?

Cheers

[GCW]

Safer than 'helecoptre:

[Drew]

Holy shit, Helecoptre and Duroxmanie were the best problems you did in Font?  You need to get away from Cuvier.

I do find that I like a lot of problems which other people think aren't that good. Those two were some of the most fun I did. The Helicopter move is a right giggle! And Duroxmanie was lovely flowy climbing, up a cool feature. I have tried some other cool problems, but failed on them, so can't really recommend them.

[Sloper]

Safer than 'helecoptre:

Yeah an a better sequence too.

[nic mullin]

They're both great problems.

In terms of their relative danger, I came off helecoptre on numerous occasions before doing it, including face first, missing pads, hitting spotters etc. and was fine. I came off the top of Duroxmanie feet first, with several spotters onto several pads and bust my ankle. Go figure...