[Stabbsy]

YYFY.. did Demon Wall Roof this morning

Effort...felt like it could be good conditions when I left the house first thing this morning.

[tomtom]

YYFY.. did Demon Wall Roof this morning 

Congratulations and jubilations. If I remember correctly the unconcentrated efforts started a bit earlier than 6 months ago... more like when I was still living in Leeds!

Cheers Steve - yes, I think I first had a serious play about 18 months ago, and figured it might be possible but has taken me longer than I thought! I had the bottom part nailed in the spring, but couldnt do the last move. Over the summer got stronger and managed to get the last move - and with a technique change get it consistently - but then couldnt do the lower sequence  So last 3 or 4 sessions have been just overlapping parts of it, nearly went last week - but like Stabbsy said today the conditions were good. Cold clean rock. Conditions were that good I went and had a hopeful play on Si's arete (what with my confidence being high and all that..) but dutifully got spat off  The cliff just keeps on giving...

[Will Hunt]

I can get to the high crimp but am very stretched out by that point. Then have real difficulty holding the swing. Haven't tried in a long time. Keen for more.

[andy_e]

If you're stretched out, how do you think short-arses do it? Someone ought to show you the beta, I'm sure you'd do it then!

[Jim]

if your on the high crimp with one hand, take the undercut back with the other hand and there won't be any swing

[SA Chris]

Was going to say the same. Know the theory, but can't do it.

[tomtom]

I didn't need to put a hand back down under, I could hold the swing when going for the crimp with the RF toe hook - then share on the big crimp and tensing like a bastard bring my RF into the hold in the roof, then pull and slap.... 6 months ago I could only do that move 3 times in a session then my stomach muscles gave up.. now no probs, so theres alot of core being used there...
The final pull and slap took me ages to get right (to start I just used my LH on the crimp) but I found using the toe hook to keep myself in really hard to master - maybe I'm too tall, at times it felt like all arms and legs everywhere under that roof!

What I love about the problem is that there are lots of subtle variations that mean most people do it in different ways, and aside from the last pull and slap its not especially powerful - more on body tension and technique...

[webbo]

maybe i'm too tall. thats like complaining your dicks too big.

[GCW]

I really struggle to get my right foot in the obvious hold in the roof.  May be lankiness, may be lack of hip movements.

[Fiend]

Basically it's harder for the short, right??

[nai]

the toe hook method is nails for the short, I tried it for 13 years without success.
The heel cam method is slightly harder as it takes so long to get the heel set, otherwise much the same but not as pleasant.
 
But I guess roof climbing would be tricky for mutant tallies with long legs, imagine the core strength required to lift such levers.  My heart bleeds for them.

[tomtom]

What I was trying to say in an earlier post is that I think its an ace problem because it seems to be of equal difficulty to tall short and medium people - as there are several different ways of doing it..
anyway - I've now done it!
 

[andy_e]

I've only ever dropped it 4 or 5 times since i've done it, and i've done it hundreds of times! took me ten session to get it though. what a rare evening that was when i first ticked it! god i miss that place. can't wait to be back, i'm gonna crank the shit out of DWR left hand, natural traverse, top cat, sloping traverse, streaky's, the keel, etc. etc. etc.

anyway have a few 

[saltbeef]

, i'm gonna crank the shit out of DWR left hand, natural traverse, top cat, sloping traverse, streaky's, the keel, etc. etc. etc.

are you going to boulderise them too?

[andy_e]

Hells yeah DOOD! I'm gonna get strong strong on them until I'm all over them like cheese on a pizza-pie, then I'm gone knock it up a notch and send the shit out of them! YEAAAAH

[Jaspersharpe]

Rad.

[Doylo]

Pas de Deux, LPT, YYFY!

[uptown]

PdeD, LPT, YYFY!

Effort. You've been waiting for the good conditions haven't you.

[Doylo]

September is always my best crushing time down there. You spend all summer getting proj wired and getting muscle memory and then wait for it to cool down!

[willackers]

Crushed Sabotage at Dumby tonight, first 8a+! YYFY!!!!!

My mate crushed it the go after too!!!
 
   

[Sloper]

Good lad, hope the head isn't too banging tomorrow

[andy_e]

Jeez Will, are you the next Malc? 

Congrats to the Doylomatic too! 

[Will Hunt]

Jeez Will, are you the next Malc? 

Oh yes 

[Pantontino]

Did a brilliant first ascent at Beddgelert Forest on Saturday evening. Been carrying a chronic finger injury for over 12 months now so it felt so good to be back bouldering and to get such a sweet line, man was I happy when I mantelled out the top of that boulder!



http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=418

I reckon my finger is still knacked, but the holds were so slopey it didn't matter!

[fatneck]

Effort Si, looks mint! And upon following the links on the NWB site to the other news items I realised that there's actually a pretty good looking circuit there, which is nice as I'm spending the weekend after next near Beddgelert! Psyched!