YYFY!!! (Read 2102880 times)

moose · May 28, 2009, 06:23:52 pm

YYFY! Finally managed the Fieldside Traverse at Almscliff (a south-facing sloper problem being the obvious project for a warm, sunny day!). I suspect the only thing that got me up the finish arete was fear of falling in that bloody swamp again!

tomtom · May 28, 2009, 08:53:08 pm

Quote from: moose on May 28, 2009, 06:23:52 pm

YYFY! Finally managed the Fieldside Traverse at Almscliff (a south-facing sloper problem being the obvious project for a warm, sunny day!). I suspect the only thing that got me up the finish arete was fear of falling in that bloody swamp again!

Good effort

that traverse is a beast of a thing.. I've only managed to scrabble at chunks of it..

uptown · May 28, 2009, 10:04:52 pm

Quote from: moose on May 28, 2009, 06:23:52 pm

YYFY! Finally managed the Fieldside Traverse at Almscliff!

Effort Moose, another one laid to rest.
I was up there tonight but don't think I saw you?
What's next on the list?

moose · May 29, 2009, 09:42:44 am

Quote from: uptownguru on May 28, 2009, 10:04:52 pm

I was up there tonight but don't think I saw you?
What's next on the list?

I was there ~11am-3pm, working Fieldside for the last hour or two (having spent the morning doing the sds to that reverse-low-crucifix-traverse-into-arete-without-break eliminate). A bit daft really given the heat but I tend to climb mornings and afternoon so that my mum cooks my tea

As for what's next at the 'Cliff, probably Underhand Extension. The Keel if I develop a bit of left arm lockoff strength, Streaky's maybe if I can figure out a sequence. Is Jess's Roof anygood? I had a look once and first impressions were hard, nasty holds, dangerous, smells of wee; but maybe I misjudged it (and it should stay out the sun).

Tomtom - not the time of year for it really, and being crap I'm not one to be giving advice. But, I attacked Fieldside by having on previous visits got the finishing arete wired, then linked to the midway jug (it's starting to dry under there now). Yesterday was the first day that I'd managed to do the crux (a drop-down match to the low sloper), but as I had the rest wired I was ready to take advantage of it (although I did fall off at the pocket on the arete a couple of times). Supposedly at the crux it's easier to miss out the sloper (using low undercuts or pressing between sidepulls) but I couldn't find a sequence.

Oli · May 29, 2009, 10:53:59 pm

A routes related YYFY, managed to flash my first 7a+ today, which was great.
An ideal way to relax after an afternoon exam, also managed it with a still slightly fucked finger, so things are looking up!

yorkshirewarcry · May 30, 2009, 09:39:03 pm

Quote from: Oli on May 29, 2009, 10:53:59 pm

A routes related YYFY, managed to flash my first 7a+ today, which was great.
An ideal way to relax after an afternoon exam, also managed it with a still slightly fucked finger, so things are looking up!

Bon effort beast!

SA Chris · June 02, 2009, 09:26:48 am

Finally had some decent weather on Skye - hiked up to Coire Laggan on Saturday (fucking scree) and did Arrow Route and Integrity, then did the walk again on Sunday and did Cioch West and Cioch Nose, to finally stand on top the Cioch itself, somehwere I have wanted to be since I first was Highlander many moons ago.

Were going to go on the seacliffs at Elgol yesterday, but too jaded and way too hot, so sacked it off and lay in the sun watched seals and took pics.

Johnny Brown · June 02, 2009, 09:29:16 am

Nice, great crag Sron na Ciche. Drove across Skye on Saturday on the way back from the Hebrides, weather was stunning.

Fiend · June 02, 2009, 09:31:17 am

YYFY, finally got to climb at Y Grisau in the Rhinnogs, after wanting to for a few years and *really* wanting to since walking up last autumn but getting seeped off. <3 Mid Wales.

SA Chris · June 02, 2009, 09:34:29 am

Quote from: Johnny Brown on June 02, 2009, 09:29:16 am

Drove across Skye on Saturday on the way back from the Hebrides, weather was stunning.

Did you take board? There was apparently some nice swells last week.

Johnny Brown · June 02, 2009, 09:41:58 am

No we were in the 'campercar' 306. Taking the board is ok when we can take it out on arrival but it would have been a pain. Checked out a good few beaches though, good swells all week and only saw one surfer, keen to get back!

SA Chris · June 02, 2009, 09:45:41 am

Nice one. had my best day's surfing ever on Sollas beach on N Uist.

Feel free to add any notes!

andy_e · June 02, 2009, 12:46:18 pm

Glad to see this is still going!

SA Chris · June 02, 2009, 12:58:09 pm

But not many people have added anything, in spite of hollow promises and initial enthusiasm.

willackers · June 05, 2009, 02:39:29 pm

YYFY YYFY YYFY!!!

Just had an awesome morning at Dumby, sent Pongo Sitter my first font 8a then got the first ascent of my project!

YYFY!

SA Chris · June 05, 2009, 02:52:59 pm

First pre-work surf of the summer. was a bit messy, but better than buggerall.

GCW · June 05, 2009, 03:23:00 pm

Quote from: willackers on June 05, 2009, 02:39:29 pm

YYFY YYFY YYFY!!!

Just had an awesome morning at Dumby, sent Pongo Sitter my first font 8a then got the first ascent of my project!

Well done, good effort. How hard do you think it is now you've done it?
I take it you can't use the evil 7b+ Pongo sitter jam

willackers · June 05, 2009, 03:28:05 pm

I can do Pongo with the jam but it doesn't feel right, so glad to have sent it properly!

I think the dyno is 8a, it's took me so long to do it and I'm usually pretty good at dispatching dyno's, if someone repeats it and thinks otherwise then fair enough but i personally think it's 8a, it's fookin nails!

slackline · June 05, 2009, 03:28:34 pm

Good one willy, got to be pleased with an 8a tick

willackers · June 05, 2009, 03:35:21 pm

Quote from: slack---line on June 05, 2009, 03:28:34 pm

Good one willy, got to be pleased with an 8a tick

Cheers!

It's been a long time coming!

I think this calls for some

GCW · June 05, 2009, 03:38:12 pm

Quote from: willackers on June 05, 2009, 03:28:05 pm

I can do Pongo with the jam but it doesn't feel right

Yeah, I know what you mean. In more than one sense- ouch!

Paul B · June 05, 2009, 05:36:37 pm

Shirley grading a dyno is going to extremely different, I can't think of a more morpho type of problem?

Good effort btw.

Nibile · June 06, 2009, 09:41:52 pm

ahhh today made me happy!!!
i came back from elba with the skin of a baby, and it's damn frustrating to have to quit due to skin while you still feel powerful. then, my left ring finger started hurting lately, and i started feeling like 100 kilos overweight (i gained two kilos by the way dunno how, dunno if lean or fat, but i think the latter, the mirror never lies), so i've been a bit down.
but today i went bouldering and did good, and at the end of the day there were two guys sport climbing, and they were smashed, so i offered to tie in and get the draws from the route. last time i had been on the route was april 3rd 2003, the day i sent it, and i nearly retroflashed, only one rest dammit!!!
i'm well psyched, it's french 8a.
i'm back motherfucker (thankyou jerry).

mini · June 06, 2009, 10:33:07 pm

Sweet tale Nibile, very sweet indeed.

Stu Littlefair · June 08, 2009, 03:34:50 pm

I climbed the groove, all 80-something moves of it. HALAM