YYFY!!! (Read 2102952 times)

Nibile · May 07, 2009, 01:58:21 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on May 07, 2009, 09:53:57 am

Actually it's palindrome. Invented by Michale Palin.

exactly, form "palin" and the greek "trekein" (to run). it means "to run away from palin".

Nibile · May 07, 2009, 01:59:12 pm

Quote from: Sloper on May 06, 2009, 04:17:53 pm

Nice one Nibs, I'll drop you an email.

hey i'm intrigued!!!

Nibile · May 08, 2009, 02:07:28 pm

still on the subject, then i'll stop postin off topic.
today i called the elba school director to fix the details, i asked him where i'm going to stay, and he answered "you'll stay in the villa, you'll have your own apartment with air conditioned".
then i found this
http://www.tintatacha.it/Immagini/Home/elba/GUIDA_ELBA_1.pdf
http://www.tintatacha.it/Immagini/Home/elba/GUIDA_ELBA_1.pdf

two weeks, a few dozens of problems...

SA Chris · May 08, 2009, 02:12:12 pm

Muy Bueno

Drew · May 10, 2009, 11:10:18 pm

Quote from: tomtom on May 07, 2009, 09:45:40 am

Quote from: SA Chris on May 07, 2009, 08:16:52 am
Quote from: Drew on May 07, 2009, 01:24:59 am
Quote from: tomtom on May 06, 2009, 10:14:39 pm
Quote from: SA Chris on May 06, 2009, 10:10:09 pm
Quote from: Nibile on May 06, 2009, 03:38:58 pm
As Napoleon said - able i was ere i saw elba. Sounds good.
Good to see you never miss a p[a]landromic opportunity!
So surely it should be "Able was I, ere I saw Elba"? Just to be pedantic
Can not believe I missed the 'a' out...

You are right, my apogolies.

Ironic?

While I'm posting, I feel the need to celebrate my ascent of Conan the Librarian. I know it's only 6b, but it's taken me fecking ages! Still scared doing the 'top' move (no, I didn't top out), but it's finally done.

tommytwotone · May 10, 2009, 11:53:01 pm

Nice work - I had a 'mare bellyflopping the top (of the problem, not the route...)

Oh, and I took 6b+ for it, don't sell yourself short!

SA Chris · May 11, 2009, 08:09:49 am

Quote from: Drew on May 10, 2009, 11:10:18 pm

Ironic?

While I'm posting, I feel the need to celebrate my ascent of Conan the Librarian. I know it's only 6b, but it's taken me fecking ages! Still scared doing the 'top' move (no, I didn't top out), but it's finally done.

No inory intended. And good work.

TobyD · May 11, 2009, 08:32:55 am

[/quote]

Ironic?

While I'm posting, I feel the need to celebrate my ascent of Conan the Librarian. I know it's only 6b, but it's taken me fecking ages! Still scared doing the 'top' move (no, I didn't top out), but it's finally done.
[/quote]

for a moment i thought you meant you'd been down in wen zawn...
fine effort my friend.

Drew · May 12, 2009, 12:44:23 am

Quote from: creamtime on May 11, 2009, 08:32:55 am

for a moment i thought you meant you'd been down in wen zawn...
fine effort my friend.

Moi? Been there. Got scared. Didn't like it. Not going back for a while.

Sloper · May 12, 2009, 01:02:18 pm

Battered, bruised and with fucked skin I can relax a little after completing four out of five projects,

The grades are a rough approximation and can go up as well as down. Your ego is at risk if you do not keep up repayments.

Painful pebble 5ish
Stomp the BNP 6a
Something of the right 5+
Fascist diet tribe 6d

A few people know where these problems are, Bluebrad, Mole etc and I'm happy to disclose via pm their location provided people respect the remaining project, at least until I've ahd a couple of sessions on it.

slackline · May 12, 2009, 01:13:46 pm

Quote from: Sloper on May 12, 2009, 01:02:18 pm

Battered, bruised and with fucked skin I can relax a little after completing four out of five projects,

The grades are a rough approximation and can go up as well as down. Your ego is at risk if you do not keep up repayments.

Painful pebble 5ish
Stomp the BNP 6a
Something of the right 5+
Fascist diet tribe 6d

A few people know where these problems are, Bluebrad, Mole etc and I'm happy to disclose via pm their location provided people respect the remaining project, at least until I've ahd a couple of sessions on it.

I like the introduction of a new grade band here Sloper

Sloper · May 12, 2009, 01:28:36 pm

Its the best problem, of its grade on grit.

Its probably grade 6 but the desparate top out isn't I think enough ot push it into grade 7. Fancy a quick repeat?

butters · May 12, 2009, 02:19:26 pm

Give us a clue as to which name corresponds to which line then by PM if necessary.

So which is the remaining line? The one you fell off the other day?

bluebrad

Sloper · May 12, 2009, 03:44:16 pm

The painful pebble is one I cleaned Saturday with John Rushby, really good but a filthy whore of a top out (the left of the really minging wall between the hard project and the others)

Stomp the BNP 6a, from the lip to the nose.

Something of the right 5+ Start low and up the middle.

Fascist diet tribe 6d, soom to be awarded an Oscar for cinematography.

I failed on the hard project going for the break below the hold (and have hurt my foot a bit, but I think that this just might go, obviously it will go if you're not a fat weak punter, but it might just be within my reach).

I also lightly cleaned the hanging block and this looks do-able but proper hard.

butters · May 12, 2009, 04:40:49 pm

Quote from: Sloper on May 12, 2009, 03:44:16 pm

Stomp the BNP 6a, from the lip to the nose.

I also lightly cleaned the hanging block and this looks do-able but proper hard.

If Stomp the BNP is the left hand line I was trying the other day then you have been on the gin suggesting the grade of 6a for that.

The hanging block will be hard - of that I have no doubt!

bluebrad

Sloper · May 12, 2009, 05:25:00 pm

Actually I have been on the gin, I foung my bottle of whittlet neill the other evening and had a very dry martini.

Maybe 6a is harsh, the problem is I think that it's two who grades easier than fascist diet tribe and I'm not convinced that that's 7a, so maybe stomp the bnp is harder than 6a, 6a+ who knows? I don't.

Percy has been sent on a mission to repeat and regrade; so that should settle it once and for all $:-\$

butters · May 12, 2009, 05:44:40 pm

Quote from: Sloper on May 12, 2009, 05:25:00 pm

Percy has been sent on a mission to repeat and regrade; so that should settle it once and for all $:-\$

As I said last week I think Stomp the BNP is 6b so I will await the results of Percy's scientific grading mission with interest...

bluebrad

Percy B · May 12, 2009, 09:31:40 pm

No idea what the fuck the grades listed above are all about...... Sloper seems to have located a selection of lovely problems all leading to the same miserable, scrittley mantle top-outs. They are all, without exception in my opinion, totally ungradable. Nice problems, but hideous top-outs, but what ever floats your boats - my boat sank shortly after arrival at the crag. $:-\$

Sloper · May 12, 2009, 09:40:46 pm

I've had several or is it seven sessions of scrittle, so I'm a bit biased, more traffic should see them clear up; but I agree it's a shame the finish isn't in keeping with the rest of the problems.

Still, 'tis good training for Font

Doylo · May 13, 2009, 10:47:58 am

Did my new route on Mayfair wall last night, biggest YYFY for a while!

chris · May 13, 2009, 02:15:28 pm

good effort mate - good line!

whats next?

Doylo · May 13, 2009, 03:03:22 pm

Dunno maybe the line between Liquid ambar and big bang, nah maybe not

Monolith · May 13, 2009, 08:20:26 pm

Quote from: Doylo on May 13, 2009, 10:47:58 am

Did my new route on Mayfair wall last night, biggest YYFY for a while!

Good work big balls. Get any video?

Doylo · May 13, 2009, 08:27:23 pm

Quote from: Monolith on May 13, 2009, 08:20:26 pm

Good work big balls. Get any video?

No i have not

biscuit · May 16, 2009, 07:07:35 pm

After a year or so of lurking on here i finally feel man enough to post as i have a YYFY worth shouting about.

I completely surprised myself by doing Hueco Crack ( standing start ) and followed it half hour later by doing left crack at 7a

And i reckon the SS to Hueco will go next time as well - i had nothing left when i tried it.

Previous best was a 6b+, which i only got 2 weeks ago.

Fingers still weak as pish though so need to get me a beast maker i think and give this bouldering lark a proper go.