YYFY!!! (Read 2102922 times)

robertostallioni · April 19, 2009, 11:09:49 pm

In that case can we start another list, "8a's for Barre fixe benders"

n_man · April 20, 2009, 05:55:59 am

Sorry Nik I thought twas easy for 7b

easy to say from afar. Think of all the bone hard 7b+ probs in the forest....

n_man · April 20, 2009, 06:01:03 am

On a more positive note I managed three awesome waves on Saturday, going along the green face and everything, real progress

and caught a few good uns toady.

Will have to get some booties cos the Pacific is getting bloody cold (going to winter here). I swear if a shark had nibbled on my toes I wouldn't have known.

nik at work · April 20, 2009, 06:59:22 am

I agree with you all (which is why I shaved my head Stallion).

It's in the definitive book as 7B+ and Bleau still has it listed as 7B+. But now I'm back here in the land of knowledge I realise the truth.

Oh and Barre Fixe literally translates as "Easier for a massive group of Germans who use the blatantly NOT in foot block to do the first moves then get all excited about having crushed 7B+ in Font".

GCW · April 20, 2009, 07:29:54 am

Quote from: nik at work on April 20, 2009, 06:59:22 am

get all excited about having ~~crushed~~ flashed 7B+ in Font

$:-\$

nik at work · April 20, 2009, 07:46:16 am

OK OK

Andy F · April 20, 2009, 08:32:03 am

Quote from: IanP on April 19, 2009, 07:21:22 am

In the spirit of this thread as a positive affirmation of everything that is great about climbing (rather than just a good opportunity to let everyone know you've got a good tick in ) :

YYFY, ticked Baboo Baboo as my first 8a* yesterday. Culmination of a campaign to try to make a proper effort to get fit which started as I approached my 40th birthday 2 years ago.

Very happy

* anyone who still thinks Baboo is 7c+ can feel free not to post

Well done Ian, you did cruise it in the end.

and I hope you enjoyed a

or 3 when you got home.

neil h · April 20, 2009, 09:31:50 pm

well to put my pennies worth inn

I thought Barre Fixe was fuking nails, Took me about 30 goes and i had about 6 flappers for the trouble,

I thought carnage sit start was easier

Take 7b for them both

anyway nice to meet you in the forest nik, did you manage to get back to buthiers on the old traverse.....

nik at work · April 20, 2009, 10:12:21 pm

Good to meet you too Neil, always nice to put a face to a name, and anyone who can add weight to the "move to Font" debate with my wife is a good egg

.

Was back there at the end of the last day with no skin and sore elbows, but figured out the move to drop down to the pocket. I can't do the heel or toe hook so I have to do it similar to Uncle only with my right foot in a slightly different position. Trouble is once I've got the pocket I can't then swap my feet (I'm either too short or lack enough body tension, you decide)so the pretty steady dyno slap to the pinch off the right foot became a totally blind wild slap off the left foot. Managed to stick it a couple of times but then messed up the foot placement for the next move - doh!
Oh well, should go pretty quickly next time I'm over (fingers crossed). Did you get back on it?

I really liked Buthiers.

neil h · April 21, 2009, 09:26:57 am

almost did it the other night, but some time soon I guess, I have it alll dialed now...

see you when you move here then

Duncan Disorderly · April 22, 2009, 07:01:28 pm

Bit of a YYFY.... I think.... $:-\$ Last night I finally ticked little gem at Burbage. To be honest I'm not sure how I feel about having done this, it's been a semi-project of mine for years now, I'd always have a play when warming up and now it's done it just feels a bit empty....

Was great to do it, I'm not sure it warrants 7b tho.... Think the biggest tick of the evening was getting home and leaving the car boot wide open with my pad and boots on display and nothing getting nicked..

: D

Kingy · April 22, 2009, 07:11:36 pm

Nice one thats a cool problem for sure, if a bit small. I think its definitely 7b, i have seen 7b+ for this in Winter sessions! I did it with my own sequence which was desparate and then watched the vid and saw how you're supposed to do it.

Duncan Disorderly · April 22, 2009, 07:33:56 pm

Cheers man..

Just checked Bonjoys 7+8's and I'll take the tick seeing as I didn't even jump start... Must be something in the air

I tried it 2 ways, one on with the low left hold, taking the seam with the right then matching. which definitely seemed doable if a little awkward to move your feet for the final move. Ended up doing it by just pulling onto the 2 crimps, reaching for the bottom of the seam with the left then pulling up and going again to get the good bit, was then just a case of sorting out the feet and smearing with the left to hit the top. Might watch the vid to see how it's supposed to be done. $:-\$

I agree it definitely could do with being a bit longer

: D

Sloper · April 22, 2009, 08:02:46 pm

Which one is little gem?

Kingy · April 22, 2009, 08:10:35 pm

Its the tiny wall on the high ground overlooking Burbage South quarry (to the left of Wizard Ridge) in amongst some easier probs.

Yeah, I just laybacked up the seam for a final tenuous pop for the top, but the vid shows Moony holding onto the starting crimp/slot for his RH while reaching for the seam with his LH til the last moment, releasing his RH and then going straight for the top.

account_inactive · April 22, 2009, 08:35:06 pm

Quote from: nik at work on April 19, 2009, 09:06:47 pm

What do you mean you have no idea what to think?

I've got some footage of two different sequences one of my onsight/flash sequence and a friend using a different sequence (which is felt much the same to me). I'll edit it and stick it on vimeo.

I thought this was 7a+? It was tough for the grade though

Fiend · April 22, 2009, 10:29:00 pm

Oh leave poor nik alone, he's only little.

His dress sense on the other hand. I remain unconvinced by the football-fan-on-font-tour look...

account_inactive · April 22, 2009, 11:01:10 pm

Quote from: Dylan on April 22, 2009, 08:35:06 pm

Quote from: nik at work on April 19, 2009, 09:06:47 pm
What do you mean you have no idea what to think?

I've got some footage of two different sequences one of my onsight/flash sequence and a friend using a different sequence (which is felt much the same to me). I'll edit it and stick it on vimeo.

I thought this was 7a+? It was tough for the grade though

Sorry this wasn't meant to come across as being wanky. I thought that was the grade in the guide I was using. I also didn't flash it BTW I did however campus it after the 1st move hahahaha

lagerstarfish · April 22, 2009, 11:08:06 pm

YYFY

According to his text today, Grumpycrumpy linked the sitter into the arete to the right of Deliverence.

Easily the hardest thing he has done so far.

Good effort

willackers · April 23, 2009, 04:31:20 am

YYFY!

Sent Chemin De Fer at Dumbarton last night, since moving to Glasgow in August I've been terrified by this massive overhanging crack at Dumbarton Rock, I kept putting it off and telling myself I wasn't fit enough, finally setting off up it last night felt a bit strange and just as shit yer pants scary as I thought it would be.

Unfortunately I blew the on-sight but pulled the ropes and got it a couple of goes after, how I managed to top out in the state I was in I'll never know!?!

E5 6a my arse!

Fiend · April 23, 2009, 08:05:40 am

Hey, I've failed to onsight some personally challenging routes recently, too!! Woohoo.

SA Chris · April 23, 2009, 08:10:24 am

Quote from: willackers on April 23, 2009, 04:31:20 am

Sent Chemin De Fer at Dumbarton last night

Good work, Requiem next.

T_B · April 23, 2009, 08:31:08 am

Quote from: willackers on April 23, 2009, 04:31:20 am

Sent Chemin De Fer at Dumbarton last night

Nice work. I've heard it is stern...

tomtom · April 23, 2009, 10:25:54 am

New Jerusalem last night (amongst the midges)... been a good week, repeated two 7a's at the cliff earlier in the week...
Failed on the pinch and cream egg eliminate though!

andy popp · April 23, 2009, 10:58:15 am

Quote from: Fiend on April 23, 2009, 08:05:40 am

Hey, I've failed to onsight some personally challenging routes recently, too!! Woohoo.

That was a bit unfair. Its always really demanding - and rewarding - to get on those routes that you're really built yourself up for. Good effort Willackers.